Is there a "how-to" for a proper coolant change??
05-28-2007, 08:47 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Is there a "how-to" for a proper coolant change??
Prob a stupid question but I dont want to run into the "air in the system" issue so is there a how to on this or is it just a drain and fill??
05-28-2007, 09:10 PM
#2
Race Director
it's not rocket science, but it's good you want to do it safely. Drain the fluid at the pepcock under the radiator. Then close it.
Add a jug of coolant, then top off with water (distilled). Or buy the premixed stuff if you prefer. Anyway, fill the resevoir all the way. Then you need to remove the coolant return line (the small line that connects to the top of the resevoir). You now need to pressurize the system. I'm a glutton for punishment, so I just blow on the fill hole with my mouth.
Anyway, pressurize the system while holding your finger over the nipple for the return. Air and or water will come out of the return hose. Keep adding fluid until you get a stead stream of coolant from the hose. At this point the heads are full of coolant, and you can re-attach the line. Adjust the final level, and crank it up. While there may be a small bubble somewhere, if you got all of the air out of the return line, then you have done all that you can do.
Add a jug of coolant, then top off with water (distilled). Or buy the premixed stuff if you prefer. Anyway, fill the resevoir all the way. Then you need to remove the coolant return line (the small line that connects to the top of the resevoir). You now need to pressurize the system. I'm a glutton for punishment, so I just blow on the fill hole with my mouth.
Anyway, pressurize the system while holding your finger over the nipple for the return. Air and or water will come out of the return hose. Keep adding fluid until you get a stead stream of coolant from the hose. At this point the heads are full of coolant, and you can re-attach the line. Adjust the final level, and crank it up. While there may be a small bubble somewhere, if you got all of the air out of the return line, then you have done all that you can do.
05-28-2007, 10:45 PM
#3
Team Owner
Hope this helps 
Chuck
The procedure follows:
Draining and Filling Cooling System
Caution
With a pressurized cooling system, the coolant temperature in the radiator can be considerably higher than the boiling point of the solution at atmospheric pressure. Removal of the surge tank cap, while the cooling system is hot and under high pressure, causes the solution to boil instantaneously with explosive force. This will cause the solution to spew out over the engine, the fenders, and the person removing the cap. Serious bodily injury may result.
Important
If the procedure below is not followed a low or high coolant level condition and/or vehicle damage could result.
1) Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2) Remove the surge tank cap:
3)Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
4) Place a drain pan under the drain plug.
5) Open the radiator drain plug .
6) Allow the cooling system to drain completely.
7) Inspect the engine coolant for the following:
Discolored -- follow the flush procedure below.
Normal in appearance -- continue with the next step.
Notice
When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL® coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner-at 50 000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
8) Close the radiator drain plug. Tighten.
Tighten the radiator drain plug to 2 N•m (18 lb in).
9) Fill the cooling system through the surge tank.
10) Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL® coolant and deionized water.
11) Start the engine.
12) Allow the engine to idle for 1 minute.
13) Install surge tank cap.
14) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant temperature reaches 99°C (210°F).
15)Shut off the engine.
16) Remove the surge tank cap.
17) Start the engine.
18) Allow the engine to Idle for 1 minute. Fill the surge tank to 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above the COLD FULL mark on the surge tank.
19) Install the surge tank cap.
20) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant reaches 99°C (210°F).
21) Shut off the engine.
22) Remove the surge tank cap.
23) Top off the coolant as necessary, 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above FULL COLD mark on the surge tank.
24) Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment.
25) Inspect the concentration of the engine coolant.
26) Install the surge tank cap.
Chuck
The procedure follows:
Draining and Filling Cooling System
Caution
With a pressurized cooling system, the coolant temperature in the radiator can be considerably higher than the boiling point of the solution at atmospheric pressure. Removal of the surge tank cap, while the cooling system is hot and under high pressure, causes the solution to boil instantaneously with explosive force. This will cause the solution to spew out over the engine, the fenders, and the person removing the cap. Serious bodily injury may result.
Important
If the procedure below is not followed a low or high coolant level condition and/or vehicle damage could result.
1) Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2) Remove the surge tank cap:
3)Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
4) Place a drain pan under the drain plug.
5) Open the radiator drain plug .
6) Allow the cooling system to drain completely.
7) Inspect the engine coolant for the following:
Discolored -- follow the flush procedure below.
Normal in appearance -- continue with the next step.
Notice
When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL® coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner-at 50 000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
8) Close the radiator drain plug. Tighten.
Tighten the radiator drain plug to 2 N•m (18 lb in).
9) Fill the cooling system through the surge tank.
10) Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL® coolant and deionized water.
11) Start the engine.
12) Allow the engine to idle for 1 minute.
13) Install surge tank cap.
14) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant temperature reaches 99°C (210°F).
15)Shut off the engine.
16) Remove the surge tank cap.
17) Start the engine.
18) Allow the engine to Idle for 1 minute. Fill the surge tank to 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above the COLD FULL mark on the surge tank.
19) Install the surge tank cap.
20) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant reaches 99°C (210°F).
21) Shut off the engine.
22) Remove the surge tank cap.
23) Top off the coolant as necessary, 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above FULL COLD mark on the surge tank.
24) Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment.
25) Inspect the concentration of the engine coolant.
26) Install the surge tank cap.
06-06-2007, 12:32 PM
#5
Racer
Hope this helps
Chuck
The procedure follows:
Draining and Filling Cooling System
Caution
With a pressurized cooling system, the coolant temperature in the radiator can be considerably higher than the boiling point of the solution at atmospheric pressure. Removal of the surge tank cap, while the cooling system is hot and under high pressure, causes the solution to boil instantaneously with explosive force. This will cause the solution to spew out over the engine, the fenders, and the person removing the cap. Serious bodily injury may result.
Important
If the procedure below is not followed a low or high coolant level condition and/or vehicle damage could result.
1) Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2) Remove the surge tank cap:
3)Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
4) Place a drain pan under the drain plug.
5) Open the radiator drain plug .
6) Allow the cooling system to drain completely.
7) Inspect the engine coolant for the following:
Discolored -- follow the flush procedure below.
Normal in appearance -- continue with the next step.
Notice
When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL® coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner-at 50 000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
8) Close the radiator drain plug. Tighten.
Tighten the radiator drain plug to 2 N•m (18 lb in).
9) Fill the cooling system through the surge tank.
10) Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL® coolant and deionized water.
11) Start the engine.
12) Allow the engine to idle for 1 minute.
13) Install surge tank cap.
14) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant temperature reaches 99°C (210°F).
15)Shut off the engine.
16) Remove the surge tank cap.
17) Start the engine.
18) Allow the engine to Idle for 1 minute. Fill the surge tank to 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above the COLD FULL mark on the surge tank.
19) Install the surge tank cap.
20) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant reaches 99°C (210°F).
21) Shut off the engine.
22) Remove the surge tank cap.
23) Top off the coolant as necessary, 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above FULL COLD mark on the surge tank.
24) Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment.
25) Inspect the concentration of the engine coolant.
26) Install the surge tank cap.
Chuck
The procedure follows:
Draining and Filling Cooling System
Caution
With a pressurized cooling system, the coolant temperature in the radiator can be considerably higher than the boiling point of the solution at atmospheric pressure. Removal of the surge tank cap, while the cooling system is hot and under high pressure, causes the solution to boil instantaneously with explosive force. This will cause the solution to spew out over the engine, the fenders, and the person removing the cap. Serious bodily injury may result.
Important
If the procedure below is not followed a low or high coolant level condition and/or vehicle damage could result.
1) Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2) Remove the surge tank cap:
3)Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
4) Place a drain pan under the drain plug.
5) Open the radiator drain plug .
6) Allow the cooling system to drain completely.
7) Inspect the engine coolant for the following:
Discolored -- follow the flush procedure below.
Normal in appearance -- continue with the next step.
Notice
When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL® coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner-at 50 000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
8) Close the radiator drain plug. Tighten.
Tighten the radiator drain plug to 2 N•m (18 lb in).
9) Fill the cooling system through the surge tank.
10) Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL® coolant and deionized water.
11) Start the engine.
12) Allow the engine to idle for 1 minute.
13) Install surge tank cap.
14) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant temperature reaches 99°C (210°F).
15)Shut off the engine.
16) Remove the surge tank cap.
17) Start the engine.
18) Allow the engine to Idle for 1 minute. Fill the surge tank to 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above the COLD FULL mark on the surge tank.
19) Install the surge tank cap.
20) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant reaches 99°C (210°F).
21) Shut off the engine.
22) Remove the surge tank cap.
23) Top off the coolant as necessary, 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above FULL COLD mark on the surge tank.
24) Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment.
25) Inspect the concentration of the engine coolant.
26) Install the surge tank cap.
Did mine that way....worked really well.
06-06-2007, 05:06 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
Only problem w/ this proceedure is your only swapping the fluid in the radiator and coolant tank. Your not swapping any of the fluid in the engine block which is 1/2 of the total capacity.
This is why you need to do a complete flush of the system.
I have done it several ways on other cars but not on the C5 as the dealer had just done a powerflush when I purchased it.
One easy way on other vehicles is to disconnect all the hoses to include heater hoses and backflush the system w/ water (problem here is it is tap water and not pure water). Connect all hoses and fill system w/ water, run until engine reaches operating temp w/ heater on max and thermostat opens and then drain again. Keep doing this until you get pure clean water out of the radiator drain.
Now check the amount of coolant the system holds in the manual. If it holds 16 quarts - pour 8 quarts of antifreeze into the system and then start topping off w/ 50/50 mix (assuming you can actually get 8 quarts of antifreeze back into the system). Remember you have 8 quarts of water in the block. This will give you a clean flush and a true 50/50 mix.
This is why you need to do a complete flush of the system.
I have done it several ways on other cars but not on the C5 as the dealer had just done a powerflush when I purchased it.
One easy way on other vehicles is to disconnect all the hoses to include heater hoses and backflush the system w/ water (problem here is it is tap water and not pure water). Connect all hoses and fill system w/ water, run until engine reaches operating temp w/ heater on max and thermostat opens and then drain again. Keep doing this until you get pure clean water out of the radiator drain.
Now check the amount of coolant the system holds in the manual. If it holds 16 quarts - pour 8 quarts of antifreeze into the system and then start topping off w/ 50/50 mix (assuming you can actually get 8 quarts of antifreeze back into the system). Remember you have 8 quarts of water in the block. This will give you a clean flush and a true 50/50 mix.
06-06-2007, 05:26 PM
#7
Racer
Member Since: May 2005
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As long you let the temp rise to open the thermostat you'll be fine. You'll actually be mixing the coolant in the block with distilled water you just poured in your radiator, which is why you must repeat the process as many times as takes to get the water clear...well almost clear. Best I got was a pink tint. 
Also, be careful when you are draining that hot radiator...take extra precautions!
It helped me to have my car up on 4 rhino ramps...made the job much easier.
Just follow the directions above and you'll be fine.
Also, be careful when you are draining that hot radiator...take extra precautions!
It helped me to have my car up on 4 rhino ramps...made the job much easier.
Just follow the directions above and you'll be fine.
06-06-2007, 08:09 PM
#8
Drifting
it's not rocket science, but it's good you want to do it safely. Drain the fluid at the pepcock under the radiator. Then close it.
Add a jug of coolant, then top off with water (distilled). Or buy the premixed stuff if you prefer. Anyway, fill the resevoir all the way. Then you need to remove the coolant return line (the small line that connects to the top of the resevoir). You now need to pressurize the system. I'm a glutton for punishment, so I just blow on the fill hole with my mouth.
Anyway, pressurize the system while holding your finger over the nipple for the return. Air and or water will come out of the return hose. Keep adding fluid until you get a stead stream of coolant from the hose. At this point the heads are full of coolant, and you can re-attach the line. Adjust the final level, and crank it up. While there may be a small bubble somewhere, if you got all of the air out of the return line, then you have done all that you can do.
Add a jug of coolant, then top off with water (distilled). Or buy the premixed stuff if you prefer. Anyway, fill the resevoir all the way. Then you need to remove the coolant return line (the small line that connects to the top of the resevoir). You now need to pressurize the system. I'm a glutton for punishment, so I just blow on the fill hole with my mouth.
Anyway, pressurize the system while holding your finger over the nipple for the return. Air and or water will come out of the return hose. Keep adding fluid until you get a stead stream of coolant from the hose. At this point the heads are full of coolant, and you can re-attach the line. Adjust the final level, and crank it up. While there may be a small bubble somewhere, if you got all of the air out of the return line, then you have done all that you can do.
dave
08-24-2007, 05:44 PM
#9
Safety Car
Not everyone has the tools to pressurize the system, but with the cap off, the system will try to pressurize and push the air out. Then when you put the cap on, it will pressurize. That's why the procedure above has you remove/replace the cap several times.
In order to drain the block, you have to remove the coolant hose from the block. You can't drain the block with the petcock on the radiator, only the radiator (half) will get changed that way. That's the reason for the multiple drain/refill (I guess they don't want to remove the hose?)
In order to drain the block, you have to remove the coolant hose from the block. You can't drain the block with the petcock on the radiator, only the radiator (half) will get changed that way. That's the reason for the multiple drain/refill (I guess they don't want to remove the hose?)
08-24-2007, 06:57 PM
#10
Pro
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Because David is primarily getting the air out of the system and ensuring a proper top-off of the fluid level. It is a critical part of the change - air doesn't cool very well and can give inaccurate readings on your coolant temps. Everyone else is just being more specific about a complete fluid replacement (flush). How banzai you do the fluid exchange is up to you.
08-24-2007, 07:09 PM
#11
As far as flushing vs. drain and refill, my understanding is that if you follow (or exceed) the recommendation for 60 month changes (forget 150k miles for most of us), this works fine. It replaces enough of the old, spent coolant to refresh the required properties.
If you've gone a long time, and the coolant looks or smells nasty (well, some think the coolant always smells nasty), that's the point at which I go for the flush route.
Also, if you're in a warm climate, less coolant/more water makes for cooler running. If you're in a cold climate, stick with 50/50 (or higher - check the table on the coolant bottle). I read somewhere that 30% coolant, 70% water is about as lean as you want to go, though, to retain the boilover protection and anti-corrosive/lubricating properties of the coolant.
And NEVER mix DexCool (amber/orange) with the regular stuff (green). I've read that the combination makes a gelatinous mess - it thickens a bit, and is really hard on the engine. I have to keep my son out of the Corvette/Grand Prix supplies, since his older GM car takes the green stuff.
If you've gone a long time, and the coolant looks or smells nasty (well, some think the coolant always smells nasty), that's the point at which I go for the flush route.
Also, if you're in a warm climate, less coolant/more water makes for cooler running. If you're in a cold climate, stick with 50/50 (or higher - check the table on the coolant bottle). I read somewhere that 30% coolant, 70% water is about as lean as you want to go, though, to retain the boilover protection and anti-corrosive/lubricating properties of the coolant.
And NEVER mix DexCool (amber/orange) with the regular stuff (green). I've read that the combination makes a gelatinous mess - it thickens a bit, and is really hard on the engine. I have to keep my son out of the Corvette/Grand Prix supplies, since his older GM car takes the green stuff.
12-09-2007, 03:18 PM
#13
Heel & Toe
Member Since: Oct 2007
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any ideas where i might find this part on the web? or will i have to replace to the whole radiator?? i barley turned it and it snapped off. the fluid is not leaking, but most of the plug come out when it broke
12-11-2007, 03:38 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
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Only problem w/ this proceedure is your only swapping the fluid in the radiator and coolant tank. Your not swapping any of the fluid in the engine block which is 1/2 of the total capacity.
This is why you need to do a complete flush of the system.
I have done it several ways on other cars but not on the C5 as the dealer had just done a powerflush when I purchased it.
One easy way on other vehicles is to disconnect all the hoses to include heater hoses and backflush the system w/ water (problem here is it is tap water and not pure water). Connect all hoses and fill system w/ water, run until engine reaches operating temp w/ heater on max and thermostat opens and then drain again. Keep doing this until you get pure clean water out of the radiator drain.
Now check the amount of coolant the system holds in the manual. If it holds 16 quarts - pour 8 quarts of antifreeze into the system and then start topping off w/ 50/50 mix (assuming you can actually get 8 quarts of antifreeze back into the system). Remember you have 8 quarts of water in the block. This will give you a clean flush and a true 50/50 mix.
This is why you need to do a complete flush of the system.
I have done it several ways on other cars but not on the C5 as the dealer had just done a powerflush when I purchased it.
One easy way on other vehicles is to disconnect all the hoses to include heater hoses and backflush the system w/ water (problem here is it is tap water and not pure water). Connect all hoses and fill system w/ water, run until engine reaches operating temp w/ heater on max and thermostat opens and then drain again. Keep doing this until you get pure clean water out of the radiator drain.
Now check the amount of coolant the system holds in the manual. If it holds 16 quarts - pour 8 quarts of antifreeze into the system and then start topping off w/ 50/50 mix (assuming you can actually get 8 quarts of antifreeze back into the system). Remember you have 8 quarts of water in the block. This will give you a clean flush and a true 50/50 mix.
and I've previously posted this obvious deduction before without much agreement. In order to speed the process of flushing half the old coolant mix out of the engine block, I built an connector out of 8" of 2" radiator hose: very inexpensive. It fits fairly well on the threads of the coolant recovery tank cap and is held by a hose clamp. The other end I adapted with PVC fittings and another hose clamp so I could use a garden hose to flush the system. Simply turn the water tap on slightly, open the radiator draincock, and run the engine at idle until you get clear water coming out. Shut off the hose and let the car drain as much as it will. Now I pour about 3 or 4 gallons of distilled H2O through the system hoping it displaces all the city water in the block. (No way to verify this.) When the draincock is done, close it and you know that you have the block (1/2 the coolant system capacity) filled with pure H2O. Now add 100% Dexcool to the radiator and recovery tank, and when the engine runs the next time, you'll have a good 50-50 mix.
12-12-2007, 08:44 AM
#18
Racer
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and I've previously posted this obvious deduction before without much agreement. In order to speed the process of flushing half the old coolant mix out of the engine block, I built an connector out of 8" of 2" radiator hose: very inexpensive. It fits fairly well on the threads of the coolant recovery tank cap and is held by a hose clamp. The other end I adapted with PVC fittings and another hose clamp so I could use a garden hose to flush the system. Simply turn the water tap on slightly, open the radiator draincock, and run the engine at idle until you get clear water coming out. Shut off the hose and let the car drain as much as it will. Now I pour about 3 or 4 gallons of distilled H2O through the system hoping it displaces all the city water in the block. (No way to verify this.) When the draincock is done, close it and you know that you have the block (1/2 the coolant system capacity) filled with pure H2O. Now add 100% Dexcool to the radiator and recovery tank, and when the engine runs the next time, you'll have a good 50-50 mix.Your idea sounds much like the "Prestone Flush Kit" - I don't know if they're made any more, but they had a kit with several sized tees in it, you cut your heater hose and spliced it in, then hooked up the garden hose to the tee, leaving the cap off the radiator and ran your engine until the water coming out was clear. You would then shut the engine down and drain the radiator and refill with antifreeze. The tee stayed in the heater line and got a cap on it so you could flush the system again.
12-12-2007, 11:27 AM
#19
Burning Brakes
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RAO-3: You're absolutely right; the Prestone Tee was my inspiration and I have used it before in other vehicles. Prestone's instructions was to put the Tee in a heater hose, which was usually the highest place in the cooling system. Unfortuneately, the C5 system doesn't allow one to do this as the recovery tank is the highest place, so I developed my filler adapter. I've used it in other GM cars with a similar setup.
12-12-2007, 11:16 PM
#20
Heel & Toe
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luckily it held up (no leaky's
) until i got back to work and could get it up on a lift and get a go0d visual of it. i got the replacement from advance auto.
i should have just waited and let my tech friends at work do it for me(work at firestone.... anybody need tires or service around mobile alabama area? i gots the ho0k-up lol), but i got bored and wanted to try to do myself in the back yard on a floor jack.
) until i got back to work and could get it up on a lift and get a go0d visual of it. i got the replacement from advance auto.i should have just waited and let my tech friends at work do it for me(work at firestone.... anybody need tires or service around mobile alabama area? i gots the ho0k-up lol), but i got bored and wanted to try to do myself in the back yard on a floor jack.