Car starts and runs until trying to give it gas. (then it dies)
06-22-2007, 05:34 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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Location: 90% of all Fords are still on the road.....the other 10% actually made it home!
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Car starts and runs until trying to give it gas. (then it dies)
**EDIT......Nevermind, it's now fixed.** (READ BELOW)
I bought a DTE 3.42 differential, therefore I needed to have my PCM reprogrammed for it. Instead, I ordered a performance tuned PCM from Bryan @ PCMforless.com. I was having a problem with my stall converter not locking up.(as a result of the shop not having a Tech 2 for reprogramming) So, what the mechanic did was changed the PCM first to see if the new one would lock up the converter before taking the rear diff out. If it still wouldn't lock up, then I could look into the converter being bad so that I wouldn't have to take this thing apart again.
Now, here's where the problem lies,......once he swapped PCM's, the car would start and idle,.....and after putting it in gear it would still continue idleing,......but as soon as he'd give it gas and make it roll, the engine would shut off. I was told to check the #23 fuse because of the Anti-Theft Device, (throttle actuator or column lock bypass or something like that?) but the fuse was still good. He put the old PCM back in and it's still doing the same thing. He's unplugged the battery to reset the computer, but nothing has worked. He also said there were "NO CODES"!!!!!!!!!
Bryan @ PCMforless said to check all the pins to make sure one didn't get bent over and also check for any loose connections,.....but everything's good there. Is there anything else that would cause it to start and run until giving it gas and going 2 mph? After checking all the above mentioned things, what would be your next move?
Thanks,
NEVERMIND........I just received a call from the mechanic saying that he unhooked the battery again, let it sit for 10 minutes, hooked it back up, set my alarm system with the remote, unlocked the door with the key and opened it, (which made the alarm go off) pushed the unlock button on the remote to turn it off, then tried driving the car again and now everything works fine. It had something to do with my aftermarket alarm system and the anti-theft mechanism that controls the computer. It must have happened the first time he unhooked the battery.
I bought a DTE 3.42 differential, therefore I needed to have my PCM reprogrammed for it. Instead, I ordered a performance tuned PCM from Bryan @ PCMforless.com. I was having a problem with my stall converter not locking up.(as a result of the shop not having a Tech 2 for reprogramming) So, what the mechanic did was changed the PCM first to see if the new one would lock up the converter before taking the rear diff out. If it still wouldn't lock up, then I could look into the converter being bad so that I wouldn't have to take this thing apart again.
Now, here's where the problem lies,......once he swapped PCM's, the car would start and idle,.....and after putting it in gear it would still continue idleing,......but as soon as he'd give it gas and make it roll, the engine would shut off. I was told to check the #23 fuse because of the Anti-Theft Device, (throttle actuator or column lock bypass or something like that?) but the fuse was still good. He put the old PCM back in and it's still doing the same thing. He's unplugged the battery to reset the computer, but nothing has worked. He also said there were "NO CODES"!!!!!!!!!
Bryan @ PCMforless said to check all the pins to make sure one didn't get bent over and also check for any loose connections,.....but everything's good there. Is there anything else that would cause it to start and run until giving it gas and going 2 mph? After checking all the above mentioned things, what would be your next move?
Thanks,
NEVERMIND........I just received a call from the mechanic saying that he unhooked the battery again, let it sit for 10 minutes, hooked it back up, set my alarm system with the remote, unlocked the door with the key and opened it, (which made the alarm go off) pushed the unlock button on the remote to turn it off, then tried driving the car again and now everything works fine. It had something to do with my aftermarket alarm system and the anti-theft mechanism that controls the computer. It must have happened the first time he unhooked the battery.
Last edited by str8upchevy; 06-22-2007 at 05:58 PM.
