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Old 08-13-2007, 08:31 AM   #1
Nick1
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Default Parking LIght Removal??

Have moisture in the left front parking light. I guess I will need to remove it and fix a crack somewhere. Any tips on access and removal? Thanks
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Old 08-13-2007, 11:49 AM   #2
sjc*2
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Default Parking Light Removal

I assume you are referring to the front DRL/turn signals. This is a common problem and I have experienced it myself. The problem is the bulb gets so hot it melts the top of the light housing and allows moisture to get in. Usually the symptom is also blown bulbs.

Some guys have gone through the lower access panel from underneath to get the housing out. I went through the top by taking out the headlamp assembly. There are 3 screws holding the assembly in place to the retraction mechanism. The screws are a little tough to get at (I used metric open ended wrench) but once removed you have full view of the DRL housing below and you do not need to re-align the headlamps. First you have to remove the headlamp surround (3 srews), headlamp covers (4 screws) then the headlamp assy. is in full view.

The DRL assy is held in place by a spring on top, and two hex head screws on the bottom. Easy to reach with a socket wrench and a mirror. My housing on the drivers side was completely burned through the top over where the bulb is so I drilled it out with dremel tool and stuck aluminum sheet in place with high temp sealant. Some guys have just sealed the cracks with sealant. I figured the aluminum would act as a heat sink.

If you search the forum under DRL or blown drl bulbs you can find more info and pics.
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Old 08-13-2007, 11:58 AM   #3
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Thanks, I will probably go in through the bottom unless there is strong sentiment against it. I will also search for more comments. I read about the " burn through" problem before.
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Old 08-13-2007, 12:39 PM   #4
Tx Ray-C5
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I'm going to have to take my passenger DRL/turn signal out as well. I replaced my bulbs about 2 weeks ago and the passneger side one "BLEW UP". So now I have to remove the entire setup just to empty out the broken glass.

So I'll be removing it from the bottom side as well. I don't want to hassle with the "re-alignment the headlamp".
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Old 08-13-2007, 12:50 PM   #5
fixvet
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick1 View Post
Thanks, I will probably go in through the bottom unless there is strong sentiment against it. I will also search for more comments. I read about the " burn through" problem before.
I've changed mine from the bottom...........per the GM manual!
Easy job!
Good luck...........
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Old 08-13-2007, 03:30 PM   #6
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Did both of mine from the bottom, routed out the burnt plastic, covered with aluminum flashing and sealed with RTV. Great fix!
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Old 08-13-2007, 05:10 PM   #7
briann510
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Sometimes my left one works, sometimes it doesn't. Usually when its out a couple roadway bumps or a tap with a long rod through side with headlight up on the white housing and its good to go for another couple weeks. It's one of those things that doesn't bother me enough to actually fix it yet.
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Old 08-13-2007, 09:00 PM   #8
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Thanks everyone for the comments!
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Old 08-14-2007, 01:49 AM   #9
soggysailor
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Default This worked for me

EZ access
I found that if you reach into the brake cooling duct directly under the turn signal and slip/push the cooling duct back off the cowling you can easily reach the bulb. Just slip your hand in , release the bulb assembly, and pull it out the front through the brake cooling duct. Change out the bulb, be sure to check it works before you reinstall, then reverse the procedure to put everything back. I have big hands and I found this was very EZ to do. Hope this helps
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Old 08-22-2007, 08:29 PM   #10
Nick1
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Did the job last night, went in from underneath and it was pretty straightforward (rhino ramps). Had a cracked lens which I sealed up and replaced the both bulbs at the same time. The main bulb socket was kind of burnt though...mmmm
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Old 08-22-2007, 08:29 PM
 
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