How do you torque shock absorber top bolts?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
How do you torque shock absorber top bolts?
How do you torque (using a torque wrench) the bolts on top of the front and rear shock absorbers without spinning the shock rods? I know a lot of people probably quesstimate this but I dont. I will be installing Bilstein Sport shocks. I don't have the shocks yet so I don't know exactly what the top of the rods look like. I'm assuming it's a Torx or the rod is flat on the opposite sides for your second holding tool. In any case, how do you torque it? Is there a special torque wrench I don't know about? Never done this before! Thanks
#2
Team Owner
Actually its two bolts, a long extension should do it (at least on the rear). They're not like the old type that have the long threaded shaft with a flat section and a nut that spins down several inches.
#3
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Nov 2003
Location: North Manchester Indiana
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you dont need to torque the old post top shock, ones with two rubber washers and the nut. Just tighten the nut down till the rubber washer is just starting to squish, then go about 5 turns more. kinda in the middle of when it starts to squish and before you totally colapse it .
I think some of the old directions said to tighten till the rubber is slighlty laraget thatn the steel washers. I have put on more shocks thatn i like to adimt,,and the above has never failed. I never use the stamped "lock nut" either. If you tighten it too muxch, you can strip the shaft and make removal a real nightmare. To remove the old shock, grap the shock shaft with a good pair of vise grips ( might have to cut the protective cover ( if you are throwing them away,, this is fine) and hold it while you remove the top nut. a ratchet wrench works great.
Most have a hex at the very top to hold from spinnign if ya want to save the shock. ( usually round off when ya need it most. )
I think some of the old directions said to tighten till the rubber is slighlty laraget thatn the steel washers. I have put on more shocks thatn i like to adimt,,and the above has never failed. I never use the stamped "lock nut" either. If you tighten it too muxch, you can strip the shaft and make removal a real nightmare. To remove the old shock, grap the shock shaft with a good pair of vise grips ( might have to cut the protective cover ( if you are throwing them away,, this is fine) and hold it while you remove the top nut. a ratchet wrench works great.
Most have a hex at the very top to hold from spinnign if ya want to save the shock. ( usually round off when ya need it most. )
#4
Race Director
if you want to torque it buy a crowsfoot in the correct size
www.harborfreight.com
Get a grip on hard-to-reach fasteners. Crowfoot wrenches work where ordinary wrenches and sockets can't.
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basically an open ended wrench head with a opening behind the head that accepts the size drive you want..
www.harborfreight.com
Get a grip on hard-to-reach fasteners. Crowfoot wrenches work where ordinary wrenches and sockets can't.
Drop forged, heat treated chrome vanadium steel
High polish chrome finish
Clip rail for easy storage
Sizes: 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", 3/4"; Weight: 0.8 lbs.
ITEM 94426-0VGA
$8.99
basically an open ended wrench head with a opening behind the head that accepts the size drive you want..
#7
Race Director
If you do decide you want to torque them, I'd agree with above, use a crowsfoot wrench. They come in six point or twelve point style...I find any excuse to buy more tools...
#8
Melting Slicks
If you use the crows foot wrench on the torque wrench, you can not torque to the same value. I can't image that it matters that much for what your doing. I recall reading a post by forum member Connecticut in which he stated that when he was in the military, they had a a correction chart that adjusted the torque value when a crows foot wrench was used on a torque wrench. As I said, in your situation, it probably is not that critical, but for other situations it may be important.
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
That seems to be the only way to torque the top shock bolts. But yeah, that little extra leverage of the crows foot will throw off the torque wrench's reading. I'll do a search on compensating for the crows foot. If I don't like what I find, I'll just do it using the naturally calibrated eye ball(s). Thx for the ideas
#10
Safety Car
That seems to be the only way to torque the top shock bolts. But yeah, that little extra leverage of the crows foot will throw off the torque wrench's reading. I'll do a search on compensating for the crows foot. If I don't like what I find, I'll just do it using the naturally calibrated eye ball(s). Thx for the ideas
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
Here's a link on how to adjust your Torque settings accordingly when using a supplemental Crows Foot to torque a particular application. This aint anything new. I just wanted to reiterate.
http://www.engineersedge.com/manufac...e_wrench_1.htm
I also read that if you put the crows foot at a 90 degree angle on the torque wrench, it will not affect the torque wrench whatsoever. I don't really buy that idea.
http://www.engineersedge.com/manufac...e_wrench_1.htm
I also read that if you put the crows foot at a 90 degree angle on the torque wrench, it will not affect the torque wrench whatsoever. I don't really buy that idea.
Last edited by VinnyVette; 10-05-2007 at 04:34 AM.
#13
Le Mans Master
For a simplified example, if your wrench is 10 inches and you add 1 inch, you are adding 10%. so your 100 lb setting will actually be 110 lbs. If the crows foot is offset on an angle, you only add the amount that it offsets the length. So a 45 degree angle will add about half of the actual length of the crows foot.
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
That's correct. Since the crows foot is at a 90 degree angle, there is no added length. But, I'm thinking the pivot point of the torque wrench has changed which may affect the accuracy of the torque wrench. It's just a hypothesis that I haven't tested yet. Maybe someone has already tested this hypothesis and has an answer.