2001 Z06 Won't Start (Starter won't engage)
02-08-2008, 09:39 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
2001 Z06 Won't Start (Starter won't engage)
Bit of a story behind this one, providing all the details in case it helps anyone with "internet diagnostics"..
Previous owner installed Viper 791 XV alarm w/remote start.
"Security" light on dash stays on solid when key is turned to ignition. It has always done this since I bought the car. It stays on while car is running.
Car (until now) had still started with key, but guessing because the Viper system bypasses VATS?
Monday I inadvertantly remote started the car while it was in gear.. the car hopped a 2-3 inch sidewalk and headed into some bushes (only thing between it and an embankment into a pond!!!). The motor stalled, I jumped in and got it out of gear. I probably pushed every button on the remote before that trying to stop it..
Co-workers and I pushed the car back into the parking spot. Damage appears minimal.
Car would not start. Viper alarm remote indicated no response (2 way paging) to any command, even simple lock/unlock. Viper alarm status LED remained unlit.
I tried everything I could find online about resetting the alarm, unhooked the battery for a couple hours, performed remote or valet button operations as instructed by VIPER manuals. Never could get any response from the alarm system again and car wouldn't start.
Went on travel 3 days, then today got back to trying to fix it..
Tried to push-start / pop the clutch since I seemed to have ignition power, but it would only fire briefly (1 second?) and then die. Charging system error indicated on DIC. I do hear the fuel pump when I first turn key to ignition.
Then I removed lower dash, removed Viper alarm control boxes, reconnected the only two wires which are cut during Viper install (per the install manual) - starter wire (yellow from ignition/key cylinder) and VATS small white/purple wire. I verified I get +12VDC on the yellow starter wire when I turn key to start.
Still no action from the starter. "Security" remains lit solid when key is turned to ignition.
If I read the wiring diagram correctly from GM, the yellow starter wire feeds power to the VATS relay before going to the starter itself, but I don't know where that relay is located and I couldn't access the starter to determine if power is getting to the solenoid.
Previous owner indicates the apparent VATS problem was not necessarily in relation to the Viper install, as the "Security" light did not start coming on solid until sometime after the Viper install. Although in recollection, when I was viewing the car prior to purchase, I recall him saying that light had been coming on ever SINCE the Viper install and that Best Buy couldn't figure it out but no big deal since the car still started fine.
Well now anything to do with the Viper system is out of the car, except for spliced wiring and unconnected sensors which I'll eventually need to clean up, but best I can figure, all wiring and circuits should now be functioning same as the OEM configuration.
I could guess / assume VATS, but how do I verify and can I fix this on my own or will it need to go to a dealer? I have two keys and neither is working.. the car does respond to the OEM remote.
Appreciate your time and input!
Previous owner installed Viper 791 XV alarm w/remote start.
"Security" light on dash stays on solid when key is turned to ignition. It has always done this since I bought the car. It stays on while car is running.
Car (until now) had still started with key, but guessing because the Viper system bypasses VATS?
Monday I inadvertantly remote started the car while it was in gear.. the car hopped a 2-3 inch sidewalk and headed into some bushes (only thing between it and an embankment into a pond!!!). The motor stalled, I jumped in and got it out of gear. I probably pushed every button on the remote before that trying to stop it..
Co-workers and I pushed the car back into the parking spot. Damage appears minimal.
Car would not start. Viper alarm remote indicated no response (2 way paging) to any command, even simple lock/unlock. Viper alarm status LED remained unlit.
I tried everything I could find online about resetting the alarm, unhooked the battery for a couple hours, performed remote or valet button operations as instructed by VIPER manuals. Never could get any response from the alarm system again and car wouldn't start.
Went on travel 3 days, then today got back to trying to fix it..
Tried to push-start / pop the clutch since I seemed to have ignition power, but it would only fire briefly (1 second?) and then die. Charging system error indicated on DIC. I do hear the fuel pump when I first turn key to ignition.
Then I removed lower dash, removed Viper alarm control boxes, reconnected the only two wires which are cut during Viper install (per the install manual) - starter wire (yellow from ignition/key cylinder) and VATS small white/purple wire. I verified I get +12VDC on the yellow starter wire when I turn key to start.
Still no action from the starter. "Security" remains lit solid when key is turned to ignition.
If I read the wiring diagram correctly from GM, the yellow starter wire feeds power to the VATS relay before going to the starter itself, but I don't know where that relay is located and I couldn't access the starter to determine if power is getting to the solenoid.
Previous owner indicates the apparent VATS problem was not necessarily in relation to the Viper install, as the "Security" light did not start coming on solid until sometime after the Viper install. Although in recollection, when I was viewing the car prior to purchase, I recall him saying that light had been coming on ever SINCE the Viper install and that Best Buy couldn't figure it out but no big deal since the car still started fine.
Well now anything to do with the Viper system is out of the car, except for spliced wiring and unconnected sensors which I'll eventually need to clean up, but best I can figure, all wiring and circuits should now be functioning same as the OEM configuration.
I could guess / assume VATS, but how do I verify and can I fix this on my own or will it need to go to a dealer? I have two keys and neither is working.. the car does respond to the OEM remote.
Appreciate your time and input!
02-08-2008, 11:19 PM
#2
found a couple links for you to check out hope something in here helps
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...t-relearn.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1921690
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...t-relearn.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1921690
02-09-2008, 12:20 AM
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I've been plowing through VATS related posts since posting the first thread.. learned a lot in the last two hours about VATS..
unfortunately my car is 45 minutes south of me and so I'll have to wait until tomorrow at best, Monday at worst to further diagnose..
unfortunately I did not pull the codes before leaving work today, I had been convinced that since the Viper alarm wasn't responding anymore that pulling it out of the car would solve my problem.. didn't research VATS until now..
appreciate the comments, and I'll post more info when I can retrieve it from the car.. I'll be checking under the passenger side floor covering next!
unfortunately my car is 45 minutes south of me and so I'll have to wait until tomorrow at best, Monday at worst to further diagnose..
unfortunately I did not pull the codes before leaving work today, I had been convinced that since the Viper alarm wasn't responding anymore that pulling it out of the car would solve my problem.. didn't research VATS until now..
appreciate the comments, and I'll post more info when I can retrieve it from the car.. I'll be checking under the passenger side floor covering next!
02-10-2008, 06:05 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Well measured both my keys and they are within 1 ohm of each other.. i paired up a couple resistors and am within 5% of the required value so I'll try that in the morning when I get to work after I pull DTC's.
I want to check if the key cylinder is making contact with the key pellet also.. friday i found the wire pair, but couldn't discern which side comes from the key cylinder and which side goes to the BCM?
One side of the connector has a purple/white and white/black wire while the other side of the connector just has two white wires.. when i disconnect the connector, which pair comes from the key and which pair goes to the BCM? in other words, which side do I put my ohm meter across?
thanks!
I want to check if the key cylinder is making contact with the key pellet also.. friday i found the wire pair, but couldn't discern which side comes from the key cylinder and which side goes to the BCM?
One side of the connector has a purple/white and white/black wire while the other side of the connector just has two white wires.. when i disconnect the connector, which pair comes from the key and which pair goes to the BCM? in other words, which side do I put my ohm meter across?
thanks!
02-11-2008, 11:22 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone!
It turned out to be the ignition key cylinder doesn't make contact with the key anymore.. I bypassed it for now, the wiring was already hacked anyway from a lousy install on a previous remote starter that I have now ripped out..
I wonder how much a new key cylinder costs.. and can I get one that matches my key cut so I still only have one key for door and ignition?
Never did figure out what happened to the alarm system and why it was no longer responsive after the mishap.. no matter now, it's all out of the car, save for some hacked wiring splices, and it's never going back in..
It turned out to be the ignition key cylinder doesn't make contact with the key anymore.. I bypassed it for now, the wiring was already hacked anyway from a lousy install on a previous remote starter that I have now ripped out..
I wonder how much a new key cylinder costs.. and can I get one that matches my key cut so I still only have one key for door and ignition?
Never did figure out what happened to the alarm system and why it was no longer responsive after the mishap.. no matter now, it's all out of the car, save for some hacked wiring splices, and it's never going back in..
