C5 Ignition Switch Repair
07-25-2014, 08:43 PM
#282
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After chasing Gremlins on and off for a year I decided to change the switch. Got one from Gene and like a magic wand BAMM all fixed.
Only took about a hour from start to finish and that included looking for lost screws.
If your on the fence about this repair don't be, its a piece of cake.
Bob
Only took about a hour from start to finish and that included looking for lost screws.
If your on the fence about this repair don't be, its a piece of cake.
Bob
07-26-2014, 10:31 PM
#283
Here ya go
Driving along EVERYTHING on the dash would light up, gauges would go to zero, radio would stop, windows would not go up and down.
driving along and reduced engine warning and associated ding ding.
driving along and security light would start flashing.
driving along and ABS warning
Driving along no problems, park car and windows wont work.
etc etc
Just about anything you can think of was happening whenever it felt like.
Sometimes i'd drive for a month with nothing, then bamm it would start again.
Weird but a 75 dollar part fixed it all
09-03-2014, 05:02 PM
#284
Race Director
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? ignition noise? on shut down?
Anyone know what this metal grinding noise is on shut down?
Does it with the belts off as well..
Listen to carefully at .04 sec & there after.... replay it...... replay it
replay it..
Does it with the belts off as well..
Listen to carefully at .04 sec & there after.... replay it...... replay it
replay it..
09-03-2014, 05:08 PM
#285
09-03-2014, 05:58 PM
#286
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St. Jude Donor '08
My 02 ZO6 engine rumbles just like yours at idle. I have a 240ish/240ish 610 @ 114+4 Cam. Same fast intake and TB, ported Patriot Stage 2 heads, 12.5 compression
I have a very similar noise. IMHO, its compression from one of the cylinders pissen thru one of almost shut valves. How much overlap do you have and what cam???
Get a mechanics stereoscope and see of you can hear it in one of the intake runners or exhaust header pipe.
It almost sounds like it happening on the same cylinder each time. So does mine.
I have a very similar noise. IMHO, its compression from one of the cylinders pissen thru one of almost shut valves. How much overlap do you have and what cam???
Get a mechanics stereoscope and see of you can hear it in one of the intake runners or exhaust header pipe.
It almost sounds like it happening on the same cylinder each time. So does mine.
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 09-03-2014 at 07:35 PM.
09-08-2014, 01:48 PM
#287
I just read through 15 pages of this thread and what an awesome resource you are Bill. I have read through the thread and here's my situation.
I recently bought a 97 C5 at the Dealer auction in Manheim PA on a whim, mostly because I decided at the spur of the moment that it would be a fun toy. It's in remarkably good shape but I suspect that I have the beginning stages of this ignition switch failure.
Here's my situation.
Car runs / drives perfectly. No errors, no issues.
BUT.. The mechanic / engineer in me noticed that the voltage gauge was sitting awfully low with the car running. So I switched the dash to battery volts, and it would cycle up and down between 12.1 and 12.7 volts, depending on various electrical loads. Brake lights, radio etc.
Initially I though crap, this thing has a bad alternator. But then I thought to myself. How did I drive it home 90 miles, have it for a week, multiple restarts, smaller trips etc, and the battery is still starting the car perfectly fine etc.
My brother wanted to come to the conclusion that the alternator was "weak" and not charging at the appropriate levels, but just enough to keep the car running.
So then the more I thought about it, the more I came to the conclusion that the gauge can't be accurate.
I took my DVM and touched the battery terminals the battery displayed 12.97 volts. I turned the key (not car on), and the dash simultaneously displayed 11.5 volts. So after seeing this thread and your schematics etc, I suspect that the switch has developed carbon etc as you indicated where it's causing a 1.3-1.5 volt drop on the hot on run and start side. I haven't tested the fuse #19 to check to see what the IP fuse shows for voltage, but I doubt that the dash voltmeter is inaccurate.
Honestly, If I'm taking the car apart to the point of getting the switch out I'm just going to replace it with new. I get wholesale parts pricing, and I'd rather have the peace of mind of a brand new switch. My question is do you agree with my diagnosis, or would you suspect something other than the switch?
Thanks in Advance,
George
I recently bought a 97 C5 at the Dealer auction in Manheim PA on a whim, mostly because I decided at the spur of the moment that it would be a fun toy. It's in remarkably good shape but I suspect that I have the beginning stages of this ignition switch failure.
Here's my situation.
Car runs / drives perfectly. No errors, no issues.
BUT.. The mechanic / engineer in me noticed that the voltage gauge was sitting awfully low with the car running. So I switched the dash to battery volts, and it would cycle up and down between 12.1 and 12.7 volts, depending on various electrical loads. Brake lights, radio etc.
Initially I though crap, this thing has a bad alternator. But then I thought to myself. How did I drive it home 90 miles, have it for a week, multiple restarts, smaller trips etc, and the battery is still starting the car perfectly fine etc.
My brother wanted to come to the conclusion that the alternator was "weak" and not charging at the appropriate levels, but just enough to keep the car running.
So then the more I thought about it, the more I came to the conclusion that the gauge can't be accurate.
I took my DVM and touched the battery terminals the battery displayed 12.97 volts. I turned the key (not car on), and the dash simultaneously displayed 11.5 volts. So after seeing this thread and your schematics etc, I suspect that the switch has developed carbon etc as you indicated where it's causing a 1.3-1.5 volt drop on the hot on run and start side. I haven't tested the fuse #19 to check to see what the IP fuse shows for voltage, but I doubt that the dash voltmeter is inaccurate.
Honestly, If I'm taking the car apart to the point of getting the switch out I'm just going to replace it with new. I get wholesale parts pricing, and I'd rather have the peace of mind of a brand new switch. My question is do you agree with my diagnosis, or would you suspect something other than the switch?
Thanks in Advance,
George
09-08-2014, 03:21 PM
#288
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You are 100% on the correct track! Post the repair results when you are all done.
Bill
Bill
09-11-2014, 05:43 PM
#289
Ok got my brand new AC / Delco made in china (insert eye roll here) ignition switch delivered to my shop by the local Chevrolet dealer this afternoon. Btw the new switches are all black - no more green cover. They also don't have the vats sensor thingy.
I'm kind of confused about two points although they should make sense as I go about the swap.
First, do I have to remove the rear portion of the console that includes the arm rest? The two 10mm nuts under the caps in the very back? Or can I just pop off the plate with the active handling switch, pull the two 10 mm nuts, and the 3 t15 torx screws - two in the ashtray and one behind the temp sensor cover and get the trim around the radio / AC off and then drop the driver side knee bolster to get the ign switch out.
Second. I'm a bit confused as to the instructions as to how to remove the park interface cable on the trans.
I'm planning on trying to kill two birds with one stone on this project and also pull the hvac control panel and attempt the resoldering fix to get the display to work again.
Any advice from someone who has done this before will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
George
I'm kind of confused about two points although they should make sense as I go about the swap.
First, do I have to remove the rear portion of the console that includes the arm rest? The two 10mm nuts under the caps in the very back? Or can I just pop off the plate with the active handling switch, pull the two 10 mm nuts, and the 3 t15 torx screws - two in the ashtray and one behind the temp sensor cover and get the trim around the radio / AC off and then drop the driver side knee bolster to get the ign switch out.
Second. I'm a bit confused as to the instructions as to how to remove the park interface cable on the trans.
I'm planning on trying to kill two birds with one stone on this project and also pull the hvac control panel and attempt the resoldering fix to get the display to work again.
Any advice from someone who has done this before will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
George
09-11-2014, 07:02 PM
#290
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Ok got my brand new AC / Delco made in china (insert eye roll here) ignition switch delivered to my shop by the local Chevrolet dealer this afternoon. Btw the new switches are all black - no more green cover. They also don't have the vats sensor thingy.
I'm kind of confused about two points although they should make sense as I go about the swap.
First, do I have to remove the rear portion of the console that includes the arm rest? The two 10mm nuts under the caps in the very back? Or can I just pop off the plate with the active handling switch, pull the two 10 mm nuts, and the 3 t15 torx screws - two in the ashtray and one behind the temp sensor cover and get the trim around the radio / AC off and then drop the driver side knee bolster to get the ign switch out.
Second. I'm a bit confused as to the instructions as to how to remove the park interface cable on the trans.
I'm planning on trying to kill two birds with one stone on this project and also pull the hvac control panel and attempt the resoldering fix to get the display to work again.
Any advice from someone who has done this before will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
George
I'm kind of confused about two points although they should make sense as I go about the swap.
First, do I have to remove the rear portion of the console that includes the arm rest? The two 10mm nuts under the caps in the very back? Or can I just pop off the plate with the active handling switch, pull the two 10 mm nuts, and the 3 t15 torx screws - two in the ashtray and one behind the temp sensor cover and get the trim around the radio / AC off and then drop the driver side knee bolster to get the ign switch out.
Second. I'm a bit confused as to the instructions as to how to remove the park interface cable on the trans.
I'm planning on trying to kill two birds with one stone on this project and also pull the hvac control panel and attempt the resoldering fix to get the display to work again.
Any advice from someone who has done this before will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
George
Te VATs sensor is attached to the end of the ignition Key Cylinder which must ne transfered to the new Ignition Switch.
Turn the switch to ON and there is a button on the side of the switch that relaeases the Key lock cylinder.
Take the arm rest out. Its two more nuts/ You will have more woom to work.
NOTE! Make sure that you carefully examine the female connectors that plug into the switch and see if the female pins are bent / spread apart... If they are, you will need to bend them back to make good contact with the male pins.
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 09-11-2014 at 07:04 PM.
09-12-2014, 12:34 AM
#292
Safety Car
Bill is the greatest thing since sliced bread.
He saved me hundreds of $$ and hours of time after narrowing my battery voltage issues down to my ignition switch.
This is one of the greatest threads available for the c5 and if anyone isn't running above 13v this is probably your issue. Mine was even down to 9.8> before shutting off.
Thanks again Bill
He saved me hundreds of $$ and hours of time after narrowing my battery voltage issues down to my ignition switch.
This is one of the greatest threads available for the c5 and if anyone isn't running above 13v this is probably your issue. Mine was even down to 9.8> before shutting off.
Thanks again Bill
09-15-2014, 09:13 PM
#293
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St. Jude Donor '05
Should our cars be included in the GM Ignition Switch Recall? When mine went bad a few years ago I was on the freeway and my car lost all power, I was able to pull off to the shoulder (without getting hit) only by the Grace of God.
09-16-2014, 12:09 PM
#295
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Another nomination of sainthood for Bill here!
I had 4 incidents where I was on the freeway and my car lost all power, funky electrical gremlins, no start situations ending up with me screaming at the car in front of Panda Express, replacing a battery, crazy random codes etc.
8 bucks for sandpaper and a couple hours is all it took to fix it.
Thank you Bill Curlee!
I had 4 incidents where I was on the freeway and my car lost all power, funky electrical gremlins, no start situations ending up with me screaming at the car in front of Panda Express, replacing a battery, crazy random codes etc.
8 bucks for sandpaper and a couple hours is all it took to fix it.
Thank you Bill Curlee!
09-16-2014, 04:34 PM
#296
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The only thing that you can do is write the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration and state your problem and safety concern. Better be glad you don't own a C6.
The EBTCM has issues with the Steering wheel position switch and is causing cars to lock up one of the front wheels and send cars shooting LEFT or RIGHT at highway speeds.
After ALL these years and issues on the C6,, NO RECALL YET. Some one has to DIE first..
Heres the post from the C6 Tech section:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...er-action.html
Writing GM is a TOTAL WASTE OF TIME! Trust me!!
They DO NOT care about our C5 Trust me... I have it in writing. SCUM BAGS only want out cash and cover up issues that can harm us, and they obsolete critical parts and ignore our request for help.
Ive purchased my last Chevy!
Bill
The EBTCM has issues with the Steering wheel position switch and is causing cars to lock up one of the front wheels and send cars shooting LEFT or RIGHT at highway speeds.
After ALL these years and issues on the C6,, NO RECALL YET. Some one has to DIE first..
Heres the post from the C6 Tech section:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...er-action.html
Writing GM is a TOTAL WASTE OF TIME! Trust me!!
They DO NOT care about our C5 Trust me... I have it in writing. SCUM BAGS only want out cash and cover up issues that can harm us, and they obsolete critical parts and ignore our request for help.
Ive purchased my last Chevy!
Bill
10-03-2014, 05:26 PM
#297
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Ohm Readings from Ignition Switch
Once I bent the movable contacts to add more contact pressure the switch has a more pronounced feel and the resistance readings were very good.
With the additional contact pressure there should be less contact arcing and deformation from heating. Hell,,,
,, for the price of that switch and the 30 min it took to fix it, it was WELL WORTH the effort. It will also allow you to troubleshoot and see if that switch was the ROOT cause of the problem. I love free repairs!
If this helps ONE person it was well worth the effort.
The next thing that I want to do is make a detailed list of the what each contact in the switch goes to and what symptoms/ faults are seen when that contact fails!
BC
With the additional contact pressure there should be less contact arcing and deformation from heating. Hell,,,
,, for the price of that switch and the 30 min it took to fix it, it was WELL WORTH the effort. It will also allow you to troubleshoot and see if that switch was the ROOT cause of the problem. I love free repairs! If this helps ONE person it was well worth the effort.
The next thing that I want to do is make a detailed list of the what each contact in the switch goes to and what symptoms/ faults are seen when that contact fails!
BC
I am trying to get resistance readings from the ignition switch contacts. How/where do I place the probes so I am reading from circuit ends across a circuit? Do you have pictures of this?
10-03-2014, 06:13 PM
#298
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Look at post reply #252. It shows the pinouts on the switch. The switch pins are labled A,B C.......................
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 10-03-2014 at 07:01 PM.
10-04-2014, 10:13 AM
#300
Gasoline Addict
My ignition switch appeared to be the culprit for recent avalanche of codes:
SDM U1040
PCM P1689
BCM B0432
And Service Vehicle Soon message, along with occasional TCS No Comm and Service Active Handling messages.
Took the ignition switch out and apart. There was plenty of evidence of arcing going on and three contacts had deposits on them; two were really bad. Sanded them (and all others) with 800 grit sand paper and cleaned with 91% isopropyl alcohol and put back in the car. All the codes magically went away. Big thanks to Bill for this write up!
SDM U1040
PCM P1689
BCM B0432
And Service Vehicle Soon message, along with occasional TCS No Comm and Service Active Handling messages.
Took the ignition switch out and apart. There was plenty of evidence of arcing going on and three contacts had deposits on them; two were really bad. Sanded them (and all others) with 800 grit sand paper and cleaned with 91% isopropyl alcohol and put back in the car. All the codes magically went away. Big thanks to Bill for this write up!
