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Update: this morning went out and cleared codes. Security light off when the key is on /on position then turn ignition off then turn to start position. Sluggish start but did turn on. Running now, so happy I found this forum and was able to fix the no start no crank issue.
Ok, I spoke to soon, after posting last reply. I went back out and shut off the car and started right up, so I disconnect vats two wire connection and pushed ignition back in and under dash when I heard clicking noise at foot well on passenger side, bolted ignition back in and again no crank no start. Pulled the following codes PO410, A1-LDCM U1064
A1-RDCM U1064, B2723 Pass-Key Detection Circuit. Any advice is greatly appreciated on my current no crank no start.
Ok, after work today I open my BCM and found ants inside. Clean them out and reinstalled, with the following codes c1255, u1255, b2527, b2723, u1064, u1096, u116o, u1255, u1064, u1064. Any advice or opinion is welcome. Pictures coming soon....
All had a H after except the horn relay circuit Current History
Last edited by Korvette2005; 01-31-2017 at 08:50 PM.
Reason: Pics
PRICELESS!!! At least it wasnt **** roaches or Mice!!
You have to make ABSOLOUTLY SURE that there isnt any ant residew and trash and the circuit board isnt corroded. Make sure that the battery is 100% fully charged and in good condition.
Clear ALL the DTCs using the DIC and see what comes back.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 01-30-2017 at 08:59 PM.
Replace starter last Thursdays. A low profile floor jack is a must to lift the car to replace starter and resolved my no crank no start issue. Thanks Bill C. and everyone who has helped on this thread. Now to find a decent tuner for my 98.
2/08/2017 Still cranking and running strong.
Last edited by Korvette2005; 02-08-2017 at 09:27 AM.
Reason: update
If you "THINK" you have an ignition switch issue, you can use a volt meter and measure the output of the ignition switch.
There are TWO voltages that power the critical modules in our cars. One is "HOT AT ALL TIMES" and the other is "HOT in ACC and ON". When you turn the ignition switch to ON, you can read the fuses listed below and you should see exactly what the battery puts out. If the electrical contacts inside the switch are burnt, there will be resistance in the circuit and the voltage output of the switch will be lower or even zero.
On top of the fuses are two small holes that you can insert pin point meter leads into and read that fuse terminal. MAKE SURE to read both holes. If the fuse happens to be blown, only the battery side will have voltage on it.
Heres another troubleshooting tip: If you read across the fuse; If it good, you should read ZERO VOLTS! If its bad, you will read BATTERY VOLTAGE.
Heres the schematic for the START /Crank side of the switch:
Heres the schematic for the IPC and the voltage that you see on the IPC Volt Meter:
Here are the fuses powered by the "HOT in ACC and ON". part of the switch:
Ok,,,here are the fuses that your going to check:
Under Hood Fuse Center
ENG ING1 FUSE# 19
INJR 2 FUSE# 18
THROTCONT FUSE# 17
INJR 1 FUSE# 22
PCM FUSE# 16
F/PMP FUSE# 13
Instrument Panel Fuse block
BTSI BU Fuse# 21
BCM 13 Fuse# 22
IPC Fuse# 19
Check the VOLTAGE on these fuses when the ignition is in the ON position. There should be battery voltage on these fuses.
Another ignition switch troubleshooting aid is; If the engine will run when you HOLD the ignition switch to the CRANK position but dies when you release the key, the switch could be at fault.
Bill
Bill can you tell me how to remove the accessory key cover so I can replace the ignition switch?? Thanks in advance!! FYI I STARTED THE ENGINE AND HELD THE KEY OVER AND NOTHING HAPPENED SO IM PRETTY SURE THIS WILL FIX MY PROBLEM!!
Bill can you tell me how to remove the accessory key cover so I can replace the ignition switch?? Thanks in advance!! FYI I STARTED THE ENGINE AND HELD THE KEY OVER AND NOTHING HAPPENED SO IM PRETTY SURE THIS WILL FIX MY PROBLEM!!
I read almost every page but I probably missed one or two. My issue is that I get the security light almost all the time. No starting issues at all. Not certain how much of this applies. Since I am getting ready to put in a new shifter, might as well tackle this at the same time. Any help is appreciated.
My 01 Z06 has 121K miles on her but has done this for a long time.
Thanks
Joel
I read almost every page but I probably missed one or two. My issue is that I get the security light almost all the time. No starting issues at all. Not certain how much of this applies. Since I am getting ready to put in a new shifter, might as well tackle this at the same time. Any help is appreciated.
My 01 Z06 has 121K miles on her but has done this for a long time.
Thanks
Joel
Joel
The SECURITY ISSUE normaly deals with the resistor chip in the key and the ability of the SENSOR on the front of the ignition switch to read chip and send that data to the BCM. The wires on the sensor need to get the sensor data to the BCM. The BCM needs to read the data. The data out of the sensor consist of a 5 VDC reff voltage fed to the resistor in the key and the properly precision voltage developed by the resistor value inside the key. SO,,,,,,,, what part of the soup are you missing???????
You can actually read the resistance value of the key chip with an OHM Meter and then read the value received at the wires at the BCM connectors.
What DTCs are you seeing at the DIC? PLEASE read and post the DTCs.
Thanks for this Thread Bill Curlee!
A little over a month ago my '98 would do this hard chunk sound when I went to stert it and after a couple turns of the key it would fire right up. The sound was similar to when a starter goes out so I ordered up a new Bosch from Rock Auto and a week later I installed it (that was fun) sarcasm! lol Then the next day about the third start same noise fron the starter, lots of head scratching went on and after cleaning grounds, cleaning up the computer and anti theft relay again seems fine for a day or two then yes once again there is that noise, I will also add some times it would act like the battery was completely dead and sometimes if I stopped at the run position to let the gauges go through there check deal they would go crazy and the turn signals would flash like crazy, sometimes it would turn over but not start at all. At this point I decided it must be something to do with this switch, so last Saturday afternoon after almost ordering a new switch from Rock Auto I decided to pull the switch out and clean it up due to this GREAT thread! Worked like a charm thus far and you can tell when it turns over it is getting all the voltage. I have included a few pictures of the auto trans cable release hole and the key (VATS) assembly. I had two contacts that were completely black and two more that were halfway burnt across, wish I had taken a picture for reference before cleaning but didn't think about it at the time.
Thanks again to all who have contributed and especially you Bill Curlee!
Last edited by Keith Richards; 07-27-2017 at 11:11 PM.
Thanks Bill. I took your advice a couple weeks ago. Had all kinds of problems from codes to reduce power. Removed and replaced ignition switch and all my problems were resolved with just that one item. disassembled the old switch and just like your pictures, most of the contacts were burnt. Old switch would of cleaned but it makes a good conversation piece. Fairly simple replacement procedure also.
Bill, Where am I placing the pos/neg leads from multimeter on ignition switch to ohm it? the contacts inside the green box or the main male connector pins?
Last edited by corvet786c; 08-12-2017 at 03:26 AM.
Bill, Where am I placing the pos/neg leads from multimeter on ignition switch to ohm it? the contacts inside the green box or the main male connector pins?
The Male Pins on the switch that connect to the harness connectors.
C5s from 97-2003 have a AUX pig tail that has a ground wire, switched power wire (yes it times out) and a BATTERY BUSS constant power wire. (does NOT time out) Its the proper way to tap into C5 Power. If you have a 2004, you have to purchase a FUSE TAP and find a fuse that is powered all the time.
It is above and to the LEFT of the BCM next to the side of the HVAC Air Box. If it never has been used, the 6 inch pigtail ends will be terminated in silver duct tape.
Still a very valid thread. Just repaired my ignition switch. Thanks OP for the info. The switch work went fairly easily. I am concurrently trying to fix the DIC which will not allow selection between fuel, gages, trip, options, e/m, and reset. Bought a used switch off eBay, but still no functions. But that is another thread.
C5s from 97-2003 have a AUX pig tail that has a ground wire, switched power wire (yes it times out) and a BATTERY BUSS constant power wire. (does NOT time out) Its the proper way to tap into C5 Power. If you have a 2004, you have to purchase a FUSE TAP and find a fuse that is powered all the time.
It is above and to the LEFT of the BCM next to the side of the HVAC Air Box. If it never has been used, the 6 inch pigtail ends will be terminated in silver duct tape.
Both power wires are 20 amp fused
Bill
Finally had my ignition switch replaced today. GONE are the electrical ghosts that caused; intermittent "check ABS" and "check stabilization" idiot lights, intermittent turns signals and cruise control not working. AND, after resetting diagnostic HVAC codes, the right side actuator door started working!
01-29-2017, 09:18 AM
If its bad, you will read BATTERY VOLTAGE.
