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Guys, I'm new to C5's and this part of the forum. If I'm not mistaken the engine oil drain plug is at the front of the oil pan facing fwd. For those who do there own oil changes, how do you do it? I mean you can't exactly crawl under the car while it's on the ground to get at the drain plug and filter, and you can't drive the car front first up a set of ramps because the oil won't drain. Would you drive the back end of the car up ramps and do it that way? Please help!
Thanks for the input gents! Wow, this seems to be one of the more pain in the axx oil changes a DIY guy can undertake. Can other people out there tell me if there might be any other ways, I guess I feel a little sketchy about raising one corner, placing the jack stand, and then doing the same for the other corner.
ramps and then jack the other end and use jack stands.
Ideally with the rear slighly higher than the front to facilitate complete drainage.
I do this sans jack stands. I do NOT get under the car while the rear end is jacked up... jack it up ONLY to allow the oil to completely drain. Once the old oil has stopped draining, lower the rear, install the new filter, plug and refill.
I nailed 2 2X8s together and cut one end at a 45 deg. bevel. I made 4 of these so I can place each in front of the tires. I then just drive up the "ramps" and it's just enough room to get an oil drain pan and my arm/shoulder under. Works for me, good luck!
get you some Race Ramps, the owner of the company is a member here.
they are a nice degree and about 10-12" tall. then i jack the rear end up and put 2 jackstands under the rear for safety if the jack fails.
if your on a stock ride height car, then its a piece of cake! once your under there it wont take more than 10min to be done.
Thanks guys, jacklake2003, I really like your inexpensive approach, when it comes time I may give that a try. How do you keep them from sliding on you?
alot of people do what he's doing with the DIY wooden step incline. they work fine. but your not going to be able to get as high as with a traditional ramp.
ive used blocks, Rhino ramps (plastic ones from walmart and autozone), metal ramps, ect.
nothing comes CLOSE to race ramps: http://www.raceramps.com/store/shopd...&cat=Car+Ramps
they are expensive, but well worth it. things are EXTREMELY light, and i have slick epoxy floors and they dont move ANY. and i can pull the car on them by myself with no one watching. i used to feather the clutch up the incline of the rhino ramps and they slid about 6" and thats a scary feeling! not with the race ramps though.
dont skimp on safety on things like this that your under the car on. and you'll need ramps for any kind of work you do on your car.
I use a four post lift and a tri pod 2 ton screw jack under the back end...takes very little time.
Go to your favorite dealership and ask the service manager what they'd charge you for labor if you bring in the oil/filter. My local dealership only charged me $11.00 while we were living in a small rental. I stood right there and watched them do the work, drank their coffee and ate their donut...
^if you know the guy working on your car, maybe.
there is no way i'd trust the dealership to turn anything on my car randomly. i've heard horror stories.
i'd rather bring it to a speed shop, someone that doesnt work on chevy cobalts all day! JMHO.
My dealer just charges labor rate for oil change and I bring my own. If I have a coupon or special package for oil and filter, I end up saving about $30-40 that way and the tech can go around and inspect the car while its there too.
I've been using the same service writer and tech for 3 years now and have zero complaints.
I just need the car up high enough to fit my drain pan under it. Only about 4 extra inches off the ground, so I just use some nice wide planks of wood under all 4 tires. Granted, long arms are required for this method. My finance's Corolla doesn't need any lifting at all, it's lovely.
It was a multi-step process to get to this point (jacking pucks, 2 jacks, some 'step up' ramps, 4 concrete blocks, 4 2x6 pieces) but this allowed me to do the last oil change/check and top off the A4 tranny fluid, and drain and refill the diff. Also used this method to remove factory catback and replace with Corsa catback. Plenty of room to work with.
Last edited by seu318; 02-17-2015 at 09:27 PM.
Reason: content
I jack up the front(and use jack stands) to reach the drain plug and filter, when most of the oil is out, I slowly and carefully lower the front so the remaining oil drains out in to the low profile pan, jack it up again and finish the oil change. Be sure to use wheel chocks on the rear wheels.
It is a fiddly job, but you don't need anything except a jack and one jack stand.
Put the jack under the front left jacking point. Lift, then remove front left wheel. Put jack stand or other support under the front frame (I use a block of 4x4 lumber). Reach under, and with drain pan in place, remove and replace filter and undo drain plug.
Remove jack stand and lower the car (carefully!) to normal ride height. When the old oil has drained out, lift, use the jack stand again, and put the drain plug back in. Then lift, remove the jack stand and put the wheel back on.
Lower car and add Mobil1 High Mileage (pretty much equivalent to the Mobil 1 spec in place when the car was built) until full.
05-23-2008, 02:04 AM
Basic C5 oil change
