VETTEV

2000 6 speed. I had been chasing CLB issues and had pulled my bcm and charged battery. When I reconnected the BCM, and tried to start the car, the car starts then shuts off, the DIC reads "Reduced Engine Power". The DIC shows Service Traction System, low fuel, shocks inoperative, and my fuel gauge will not monitor fuel level.

In short, how bad of a mess did I make?

I have checked ground wires, read codes and they say "not Comm." Sounds like the system is not sensing the BCM at all.

What a mess... Any recommendations?

BlackZ06

What module is reporting "No Comm"

It'll look something like 10 PCM No Comm

List the modules reporting No Comm ....

Also .... are you sure it was the BCM that you pulled .... not the PCM ???

Finally, was the car ignition ON when you reinstalled the computer ????

Removing computers is not a good idea .... like Mythbusters say "Don't try this at home .... EVER". The only reason to remove a computer is if you're replacing it.

Post All the codes and messages from the DIC display when you run the diagnostic, but it sounds like you fried one or more of your computers.

VETTEV

I believe it is the BCM. Pulled the computer module on the passenger side at the foot plate under the carpet.

The codes are:
10 PCM No Comm.
28 TCS No Comm.
38 RTD No Comm.
40 BCM No Comm.
58 SDM No Comm.
60 PIC No Comm.
80 Radio No Comm.
99 HVAC No Comm.
A0 LDCM No Comm.
A1 RDCM No Comm.
B0 RFA No Comm.

The ignition was not on when I reinstalled it.

Bill Dearborn

Those aren't the codes. Those are just the subsystem headings. If you have No Comm with each one of those subsystems it sounds like your BCM isn't plugged in correctly or has been damaged. You can blow these modules through static discharge if you didn't properly ground yourself before handling the module.

Bill

BlackZ06

Check Fuse 29 (10 Amp) in the Instrument Panel fuse block .... it powers the Serial Data network.

It was the BCM that you removed from the passenger footwell.

If the fuse is OK .... look carefully at the "star connectors" .... they are two flat "connectors" in the area of the BCM. they each have multiple colored wires coming into them .... but no wires coming out the other end of the connector. The other end is a "shorting bar" that connects all the wires coming into the connector to each other. Make sure the shorting bar is firmly in place.

After that .... if everything is still off-line .... pull the connectors off the BCM and check them carefully for any bent/damaged pins.

After that, you are pretty much gonna have to take it to a dealer. Replacing computers such as the BCM requires programming of other computers in the car .... which means you need a Tech2.

Hopefully it is something as simple as a bad wiring connection.

VETTEV

Wow, very impressive... One of the shorting bars has fallen off. I will find it tonight and replace it. I am crossing my fingers.

Thank you very much for your help.

VETTEV

BlackZO6... Great call. Found the shorting bar, replaced it and it corrected the issue. Thankfully I am back to where I was with only CLB issues I had before I pulled the BCM looking for wiring issues... :thumbs

Thank you very much for taking the time to help and teach without taking advantage of the many opportunities to criticize. Your help is very appreciated!

vettenuts

Glad to see you have if fixed. Can you post a photo of the shorting bar? Curiosity on my part as this is something I have not yet run across.

BlackZ06

You're welcome ..... now what's the problem with your column lock ????

VETTEV

Well since you asked...

Had the recall in November of 07. They pulled the locking pin, reprogramed the computer to shut off the fuel at 2mph and installed the K harness. Well 6 weeks later the dreaded Pull Key and Wait 10 seconds came on and fuel shutoff kicked in, and I was off to the dealer. They told me the CL must have got stuck and it was fine when they pulled fuses. It ran fine since then and last week, guess what, did it again.

After reading the multiple threads, pulling fuse 23 and 25, trying the jumper wire (do not think I will try that again) and pulling the BCM to reset the sys, still having problems.

I understand I can have the fuel shutoff reprogrammed up to 200 mph and install a CLB will help. I have ordered the CLB from vettes of houston.

So what do you think? Reprogram the fuel shutoff, install the clb, and hope I do not short start the car again.

I believe what engaged the "Pull key and wait 10 seconds" DIC was when I did not hold the key in the start position long enough to start the car and caused the BCM and computer to get out of sync. Your thoughts?

BlackZ06

My first thought is that the GM "engineers" that designed the column lock system should all be taken out and shot. Bad enough that the initial design was bad, but worse, after three recall campaigns people are STILL having problems. Then GM wonders why some people think that foreign brands are better.

There are several conditions that seem to trigger the CL error.

* Low battery voltage - When cranking, a weak battery can drop the voltage to the computers enough that the BCM seems to get "confused" and starts the "PULL KEY" and then "CL" error messages.

* Fast keying - When you insert the key to start the car, deliberately pause in the ON position before turning the key to START. It seems that once in a while the too rapid selection of START causes the BCM to get out of sequence and again bring out the error messages.

* Lock pin position switch - The GM "fix" for the problem (often called the "K" harness) removes the lock plate, but every time you start and stop the engine the lock pin itself is still driven in and out of position ... it just has no lock plate to lock against. There is a "switch" that senses whether the pin is in the "lock" or "unlock" position. The BCM uses that switch as part of the "logic" of whether or not to throw the CL error messages. So, if the motor fails in the "lock" position, or the switch fails and tells the BCM the position is "locked" then .... yup .... you get the error messages. Why did GM not bypass this whole thing like the CLB from COH does ???? See ........ that's why they should be shot ..... as Ron White says "You can't fix stupid".

The CLB effectively eliminates these problems because it is wired to convince the BCM that the lock pin has moved to the correct position when in fact it hasn't moved at all. If the BCM gets "out of synch" then pulling the two BCM fuses is all you have to do ... the BCM and the CLB will resynch when you put the fuses back in.

So I'd definately recommend the CLB. If you have easy access to a copy of HPTuners then yes, re-programming the cut-off speed to 200+ MPH can't hurt, but most people only have licensed copies for their own vehicle, so this may be harder (more expensive) to do than you might initially think.

Hope this helps,

VETTEV

Took my ride back to the dealer. I do not like being at the mercy of the dealer Got a call from them Monday and they told me the CL had gone bad. Imagine that!

The good news is that they told me they would replace the CL under warrantee if I would pay a $100 deductible. Should have it back by Friday.

First thing this Saturday AM I will be installing a CLB.

Thanks for your help…

PewtVette

One of the more cogent and concise explanations of the CL issue. I had the CLB on my car within 2 weeks of buying my coupe last summer- thanks to the fear instilled by members of this forum- but I never totally understood everything that was going on- until now.