Pinning a keyed Pulley??
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Pinning a keyed Pulley??
I am in the process of installing a new crank pulley and I am going to go ahead and pin it but it has a keyway cut. Do I drill on the opposite side? or do I drill the crank where the pin will slip in the keyway?
Thanks Bob
Thanks Bob
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When you balance precision equipment, the best way is with everything in its working location as even wind can change the balance depending on the type of equipment. I.E. fans.
Mike V
#12
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Its just a little inaccuracy. But if you are going to pin, you should choose a place that will help the problem thats all.
When you balance precision equipment, the best way is with everything in its working location as even wind can change the balance depending on the type of equipment. I.E. fans.
Mike V
When you balance precision equipment, the best way is with everything in its working location as even wind can change the balance depending on the type of equipment. I.E. fans.
Mike V
#13
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I actually took a carbide bit and radiused my keyway, aligned it with my existing pin location and tapped the pin in. It fit quite nicely.
180° out will be fine too.
180° out will be fine too.
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St. Jude Donor '03
To eliminate some confusion here....there's two ways to pin a crank.
One way (the method being described here) is used with stock balancers..it involves installing/torquing the pulley first, and using a jig, drilling a hole in from the end of the crank. The hole (and pin) becomes centered at the seam between crank OD, and pulley bore ID. Once hole drilled, pin is tapped in.
The net result looks like this:
The other method (used with keyed pulleys), is called vertical pinning...The ATI pin kit uses this method.
it uses a dowel pin (or 2) of the same dia as the keyway is wide (ie, 3/16"). A hole is drilled into the side (or top) of the crank snout (not the end), a short dowel pin(s) is pressed in, sticking out of the side of the crank the same depth as the keyway of the pulleyi. And then the pulley is installed, aligning keyway up with the pin(s), and drawing it on.
You use a fixture that looks like this to insure the pins are perfectly centered and straight, so they line up with the pulley keyway:
One way (the method being described here) is used with stock balancers..it involves installing/torquing the pulley first, and using a jig, drilling a hole in from the end of the crank. The hole (and pin) becomes centered at the seam between crank OD, and pulley bore ID. Once hole drilled, pin is tapped in.
The net result looks like this:
The other method (used with keyed pulleys), is called vertical pinning...The ATI pin kit uses this method.
it uses a dowel pin (or 2) of the same dia as the keyway is wide (ie, 3/16"). A hole is drilled into the side (or top) of the crank snout (not the end), a short dowel pin(s) is pressed in, sticking out of the side of the crank the same depth as the keyway of the pulleyi. And then the pulley is installed, aligning keyway up with the pin(s), and drawing it on.
You use a fixture that looks like this to insure the pins are perfectly centered and straight, so they line up with the pulley keyway:
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You are going to have voids from the orginial material no mater what you do, so it may be lighter if the material weighs the same. We are talking fly **** here... so 180 out is just best practice. Its not like its going to cause a problem.
Mike V
Mike V
Last edited by MikeV; 07-29-2008 at 06:45 PM.
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To eliminate some confusion here....there's two ways to pin a crank.
One way (the method being described here) is used with stock balancers..it involves installing/torquing the pulley first, and using a jig, drilling a hole in from the end of the crank. The hole (and pin) becomes centered at the seam between crank OD, and pulley bore ID. Once hole drilled, pin is tapped in.
The net result looks like this:
The other method (used with keyed pulleys), is called vertical pinning...The ATI pin kit uses this method.
it uses a dowel pin (or 2) of the same dia as the keyway is wide (ie, 3/16"). A hole is drilled into the side (or top) of the crank snout (not the end), a short dowel pin(s) is pressed in, sticking out of the side of the crank the same depth as the keyway of the pulleyi. And then the pulley is installed, aligning keyway up with the pin(s), and drawing it on.
You use a fixture that looks like this to insure the pins are perfectly centered and straight, so they line up with the pulley keyway:
One way (the method being described here) is used with stock balancers..it involves installing/torquing the pulley first, and using a jig, drilling a hole in from the end of the crank. The hole (and pin) becomes centered at the seam between crank OD, and pulley bore ID. Once hole drilled, pin is tapped in.
The net result looks like this:
The other method (used with keyed pulleys), is called vertical pinning...The ATI pin kit uses this method.
it uses a dowel pin (or 2) of the same dia as the keyway is wide (ie, 3/16"). A hole is drilled into the side (or top) of the crank snout (not the end), a short dowel pin(s) is pressed in, sticking out of the side of the crank the same depth as the keyway of the pulleyi. And then the pulley is installed, aligning keyway up with the pin(s), and drawing it on.
You use a fixture that looks like this to insure the pins are perfectly centered and straight, so they line up with the pulley keyway:
Apparently you have been down this road, what would you do? I am not too thrilled about drilling my brand new balancer.