Jetts4u2

Hey,
I read the thread about the second fuse box in the floor board, wow, and I only owned the car 4 years, it's a 99 Hatch. Anyway, now I have lumbar support and my 12V Jack in the console work, both for the first time!!!
Problem-my rear right speaker didn't work, broke, replaced it with Jensen speakers, works but at very low volume. I think my rear amp is inop. I've read the rears are 4 ohm. The left rear worked at reduced volume, but I swapped it also, no difference.
Also, I think my antenna amplifier isn't working, as the radio has no reception.
Everything else in the car works, all lights, gauges, HUD...
I checked all fuses and found that #14-CRK and 26-Hatch/Trk have no power to the fuses. What do these two fuses do? I also swapped the bose relay with the interior light relay, both work. Also, the bose fuze is good.
Where is the rear amp located?
Lots of questions, just need a lot of help, thanks.

lucky131969

I'm thinking you just can't replace the bose with any old speakers.

Roc87

Sorry, can't really help, but to reply to lucky, YES, you can replace with "any old speaker" as long as it's in the 4ohm range. The only speakers that are amped on the C5 bose is the door "woofers", I replaced the twiddlers in my doors with 2-way Boston Acoustics and plan to replace the rear speakers soon, but haven't since I like more sound out of the front anyways.

Oh yeah, it'd be better to post this in the audio section

Sting99

He is right post in the audio section , there are alot of audio experts there, they have helped me out alot, especially ( pentavolvo ) that guy has been a world of help , with different issues that I've had

VIPERBLUELX

what size boston acoustics and was it worth it?

Roc87

I believe they are 3.5", got them off the "unnamed auction site" shipped for under $100, saw them at Best buy for around $175. Between those and the powered sub in the back, it sounds far superior to my sold Iroc that I must have had $2500 in stereo equipment.

VIPERBLUELX

what sub/box/amp are you running, i'm looking to do a small upgrade but keep the stock headunit and stock subs in the doors

Roc87

Kind of hate to say it (I had many combos in that Iroc I mentioned, JL audio, MTX, Alpine, MB quart, Hifonics, RF, Pioneer Premier) but I have a 10" self-amplied bazooka tube sitting in the center tub, bought a used storage cover and cut it to fit around the vent part of the sub. Figured I'd just keep it simple, plus if I need the extra storage space, the whole thing can be removed in minutes. There is only one adapter you'll need to hook up an aftermarket sub to the bose HU, It tees right in back and gives you a remote turn on wire and also a set of RCA's. I even have a very nice custom billet aftermarket HU adapter for the vette, but never installed just because I think it already sounds great and didn't want to lose the factory look (less likely to be broken into)

VIPERBLUELX

what adapter do you recommend?

Roc87

Sorry, would have posted earlier, but had to go look. It's a "PAC AOEMVET1". It actually give you two pair of RCA's and individual gain on each channel. Originally I had the tube hooked up to the "rear" RCAs but didn't like it because I usually have my fader to the front and it wasn't letting the sub work like I thought it should, So now it's hooked up to the "Front". I think you can still pick up the adapters online for around $50

lucky131969

Thanks for the clarification

Jetts4u2

Can a moderator move this thread to Audio?
If the rears don't have an amplifier, then the HU amp must be bad as I can hardly hear the rear speakers.
Info on the adapter is good stuff. I found it for $34.95 in google, PAC AOEMVET1. It says it gives full range, 20-20000, so you could run this input into an 4 channel amp, run 1 set of RCAs to a sub, other RCAs to amp the rear speakers?
Still looking for info on fuse 14 and 26 no voltage.