Engine light
03-20-2009, 06:09 PM
#1
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Engine light
Drove today my 99 hardtop and the engine light staying on.
Pull codes P0420 and P0430.Please tell what TWC system low efficiency bank 1 and TWC bank 2 means.
There are no other codes with C the rest of them are history.
I keep the battery on a battery tender all the time,voltage is always at 13.1.
Any idea why engine check light is staying on.
Pull codes P0420 and P0430.Please tell what TWC system low efficiency bank 1 and TWC bank 2 means.
There are no other codes with C the rest of them are history.
I keep the battery on a battery tender all the time,voltage is always at 13.1.
Any idea why engine check light is staying on.
03-21-2009, 03:11 PM
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[QUOTE=99mikeb;1569377942]Drove today my 99 hardtop and the engine light staying on.
Pull codes P0420 and P0430.Please tell what TWC system low efficiency bank 1 and TWC bank 2 means.
Do I need cats or O2 sensor?
Pull codes P0420 and P0430.Please tell what TWC system low efficiency bank 1 and TWC bank 2 means.
Do I need cats or O2 sensor?
03-21-2009, 03:58 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
420 and 430 are set if the cat converters are not working to the computers specs.
do you still have stock manifolds/cats or do you have headers?
do you still have stock manifolds/cats or do you have headers?
03-22-2009, 08:59 AM
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Just try resetting the DTCs and see if clearing them will get rid of the DTCs. If they come back, we can go from there.
BC
BC
03-22-2009, 09:09 AM
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03-22-2009, 12:25 PM
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My understanding of these codes is it should not cause you any driveability issues. I have gotten the 420 code. I reset it and it hasnt come back. Did you get both codes at the same time? If not you could switch sensors and see if it shows up on the other bank that way you would know if its a sensor or a cat.
03-22-2009, 01:31 PM
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The problem I am having is that I need a inspection and the check engine light being on will not pass.My friend owns the station and he plug in his tuner is clear it, had me drive the car for 20 minutes and light came back on.Tuesday I have appointment with the car and will put the car on the lift the inspect the cats.If I need new cats the price is of the charts for new ones.Do you have any other suggestions to this problem.
03-25-2009, 05:16 PM
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
You have a built in DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) reader. You do NOT need to have any one read them for you:
READ THIS:
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.
Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
Here is very good site of DTC definitions:
http://www.gearchatter.com
Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!
--------------------------------------------------------
Before I would replace $EXPENSIVE $ CATS,,,,,I would first examine the after the CAT O2 sensors for proper connection and make sure the connector and wiring are not damaged.
If all of that looks correct. rear O2 Sensors are a LOT less expensive that a set of cats labor to install them.
CHECK the Engine Compartment Fuse Mini Fuse #15 (OXY SEN ) With the ignition switch ON use a volt meter and make sure that thee is battery voltage on that fuse supply and that the fuse is GOOD.
You MUST see battery voltage. If battery voltage is 12 VDC with the KEY ON engine off, there should be 12 VDC on that fuse. If you see 10 VDC, thats a problem and theres a solution for it. Ley me know what you read.
BC
READ THIS:
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.
Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
Here is very good site of DTC definitions:
http://www.gearchatter.com
Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!
--------------------------------------------------------
Before I would replace $EXPENSIVE $ CATS,,,,,I would first examine the after the CAT O2 sensors for proper connection and make sure the connector and wiring are not damaged.
If all of that looks correct. rear O2 Sensors are a LOT less expensive that a set of cats labor to install them.
CHECK the Engine Compartment Fuse Mini Fuse #15 (OXY SEN ) With the ignition switch ON use a volt meter and make sure that thee is battery voltage on that fuse supply and that the fuse is GOOD.
You MUST see battery voltage. If battery voltage is 12 VDC with the KEY ON engine off, there should be 12 VDC on that fuse. If you see 10 VDC, thats a problem and theres a solution for it. Ley me know what you read.
BC