Lear31A

OK, My passenger window quit working (like most). I tried the screwdriver under the bolt trick and it worked perfectly for a day. The next day, it quit working again. I refuse to buy another window regulator when this one clearly works when banged on! There has to be another issue. Today, I take the door panel off and bang on everything until it started working again. Now, while opening and closing the window, I moniter it very closely with a flashlight. The motor is pushing the window up too far b/c when I lower it, the motor runs for a second before the window starts to move. I adjusted the travel so that it is not binding at the top and it is working smoother and quiter than the drivers side brand new regulator. So, I am wondering if the adjustment is getting off over time and the motor is going past its limit either up or down and binding? Obviously, the motors are not going out b/c they all work when banged on at just the right time. Any other thoughts on this?

dwestsr

Please let us know if the window continues to work or quits after a day or two. I was thinking the same thing. Why does banging on it cause the motor to start working again (temporarily)? I would love to be able to repair this rather than replace parts.

Lear31A

I will do definately................

johninar

Sticky relay maybe and not the motor itself?

Lear31A

That could be it for sure. The motor got really hot to the touch while I was tinkering with all of this. The relay could have been sticking and trying to lower the window even after it was down?? I am just brainstorming on all of this and trying to use some common sense. I did not remove the relay box and open it up. I think I will remove the box, open it up and spray some electrical cleaner on everything. It couldnt hurt...........

TEXHAWK0

Two things to think about...
I never use the auto down feature without pushing the button again to make sure the relay releases. Some have reported they think that the relay can lock in and not release when the window hits the bottom stops, thus causing the motor to overheat.

Second, most of the time the windows stick in the full up position, so it is possible they are just in a bind and get stuck. I have started bumping my window down a fraction of an inch to unload the drive gears and motor to see if that will eliminate the problem.

I don't think mine has ever stuck because the door control relay was not working because I can hear the relay click when I push the button. The window just does not go down.

Note, the drive cables are spring loaded at the motor housing so it should be normal for the motor to run for a second before the window moves. It has to run long enough to compress the spring in the drive direction.

Lear31A

Good info, thanks

bogspores

GREAT THREAD!....I had to replace BOTH motors on my 2004 in the first year!....I was thinking the same thing, since I could hear the relays "click" when I pressed down....

The dealer reported the motors were "fried" but now I don't think so!....

Lear31A

Just an update, still working great after the adjustment and relay cleaning..........

Got uid0

so how do you adjust it?

Lear31A

I removed the two rubber covers on the very bottom of door and turned each screw equally. No need to pull the door panel off for this.

TEXHAWK0

I assume you are talking about the stop adjustment screws on the regulator bracket? Did you turn them clockwise or counter-clockwise? (lower or raise the stops in relation to the rail)
If the window was going too far up, I assume you turned them clockwise to raise the stops on each end of the glass.

Lear31A

Affirmative, I raised them about 1/2 turn each (clockwise)........

Leroy Amy

what is screw driver under bolt trick?

Tigershark3

I'm about to get into this issue myself... passenger window is stuck up.

Maxx

Ditto here...
Just got a 10K 2007 Z06 for the House Commander so the 01 Z06 is mine by default (some burden huh?).

Pass window stuck up. Relay working (input at least) cause I hear it engage. I need to get it apart to see if I have power from the relay, limit switch worn, etc.

The limit switch overrun/wear issue seems to be a good theory due to no fuse popping or burnt winding/wire smells in my car. Power just isn't getting to the end device...

Chris in Shreveport

Dennis Wilson

Is it one at each end of the door? under the square rubber plugs? I`ve had the same prob. forever. I`ve been leaving the window barely cracked down the last couple weeks & its been working every time That would be great if it can be adjusted.

TEXHAWK0

Even if you adjust the stops so that the glass is not driven as high into the weatherstrip, there are no limit switches, so the motor still drives the glass brackets up against the stop, leaving the drive mechanism in a bind.
I still like the idea of bumping the motor in the reverse direction to unload everything. I found that you can hit the down and then the up button quick enough so that the glass only goes down about 1/16th inch, so you still get a good fit into the weatherstrip.

If it was just a matter of adjusting how tight the glass is forced against the weatherstrip, it seems like you could open the door (which removes any load from the weatherstrip), and the motor would unstick, but we know that does not solve the problem.

B-ras

I think you're spot on here. I've had the passenger side door panel off of my '03 Z off a dozen times in the eight months I've owned the car (every time I go to the track, at least). First owner only put on 8K miles so she sat a lot. It's very obvious that it's binding in the full up position, because one tap with a hammer and it rolls down with motor apparently strong.

I wouldn't want to limit the travel any further, inviting more wind noise or sealing issues, but I'm going to start bumping it down a touch while parked in the garage and see if that helps.

Funny thing is that my 2000 FRC never had the issue in 60K miles.

LivinTheDream

Thanks for this post.

I just purchased one of the rebuilt regulators from e-Bay. Driver window has been trouble for about 6 months. Glad I read this first. I have the relay that clicks, and sometimes banging on the window with a mallet or under the door will start it. Today none of that would move it. After removing the door panel, I bumped and poked while holding the switch. Lo and behold, when I pushed on the wire bundle coming from the top connector, the motor fired right up. Great...so maybe this is an intermittent open. I removed connectors, sprayed tuner cleaner, massaged the wires, and we'll see if that's it.

Count me in with the number of people who think it's not always the motor. Mine is a '98 with 100K miles. Some of the male fasteners welded themselves to the female after 11 years, so I need to order females and replace them in the future.