What did I do?
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Apr 2008
Location: Las Cruces New Mexico
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What did I do?
I was checking the codes on my 02 to see if I could figure out why my security light stays on. Went through all of it until it showed No Codes.
Now my car won't start. It started before I messed with codes and configure options. What did I do and how do I fix?
Now my car won't start. It started before I messed with codes and configure options. What did I do and how do I fix?
Last edited by TonyL; 12-03-2008 at 12:59 PM.
#2
Burning Brakes
Member Since: May 2007
Location: Denver, North Carolina
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
2 Posts
You say your car will not start, but what will it do? Do the dash lights come on when you turn the key, will the engine spin but not run, does it just click like a low battery? What I'm saying is give us as much detail as you can.
#3
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Apr 2008
Location: Las Cruces New Mexico
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
All dash lights, radio, lights & horn work. It makes a hum when I first turn key on. All needles on instrument panel go all the way to the right then back down to left. Engine does not turn at all.
Last edited by TonyL; 12-03-2008 at 02:38 PM. Reason: more info
#4
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,085
Received 8,926 Likes
on
5,332 Posts
That sounds like a battery problem. Check the battery connections and test the battery to see if it can take a load and the voltage is correct.
Bill
Bill
#5
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Apr 2008
Location: Las Cruces New Mexico
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Still Need help, please
When I installed the battery back on. It made all sorts of clicking noises and hums.
Up date: Installed new Interstate battery. Still nothing. Now, I am stuck with new battery and car still won't even crank.
The car was running and starting fine right before I did a codes check and reset trying to figure out why my security light stays on.
Before that it started right up.
I also tried jumping it to start and it won't even turn the engine.
As for the codes it only has 1 code at 40-BCM
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Last edited by TonyL; 12-05-2008 at 02:06 PM. Reason: update
#6
Burning Brakes
Member Since: May 2007
Location: Denver, North Carolina
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
2 Posts
What is the code for the BCM? it should be one of the following...
---40-BCM -Body Control Module---
B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
B0433 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
B0502 RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0503 RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0507 LH DRL Relay Circuit
B0508 LH DRL Relay Circuit
B0605 BCM Internal Memory Function
B0844 BCM Temporarily Inhibit ABS
B2403 Front Fog Lamp Switch Circuit
B2408 Rear Fog Lamp Switch Circuit
B2482 Backup Lamp Relay Circuit
B2483 Backup Lamp Relay Circuit
B2527 Horn Relay Circuit
B2528 Horn Relay Circuit
B2573 Hatch Release Switch Circuit (Short to Voltage)
B2578 RF Turn Signal Monitor Circuit (Short to Voltage)
B2583 LF Turn Signal Monitor Circuit (Short to Voltage)
B2587 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (A)
B2588 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (A)
B2592 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (B)
B2583 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (B)
B2597 Traction Control System Switch Circuit
B2721 PASS-Key Detection Circuit
B2722 PASS-Key Detection Circuit
B2723 PASS-Key Detection Circuit
B2735 PASS-Key Programming Mode Active
U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction
---40-BCM -Body Control Module---
B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
B0433 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
B0502 RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0503 RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0507 LH DRL Relay Circuit
B0508 LH DRL Relay Circuit
B0605 BCM Internal Memory Function
B0844 BCM Temporarily Inhibit ABS
B2403 Front Fog Lamp Switch Circuit
B2408 Rear Fog Lamp Switch Circuit
B2482 Backup Lamp Relay Circuit
B2483 Backup Lamp Relay Circuit
B2527 Horn Relay Circuit
B2528 Horn Relay Circuit
B2573 Hatch Release Switch Circuit (Short to Voltage)
B2578 RF Turn Signal Monitor Circuit (Short to Voltage)
B2583 LF Turn Signal Monitor Circuit (Short to Voltage)
B2587 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (A)
B2588 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (A)
B2592 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (B)
B2583 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (B)
B2597 Traction Control System Switch Circuit
B2721 PASS-Key Detection Circuit
B2722 PASS-Key Detection Circuit
B2723 PASS-Key Detection Circuit
B2735 PASS-Key Programming Mode Active
U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction
#7
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
HAve someone turn the key to CRANK while you whack the starter with a mallet!!! If that works, your solenoid is bad or you have loose wires on the solenoid. There have been LOTs of bad solenoids lately!!
#8
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Apr 2008
Location: Las Cruces New Mexico
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What is the code for the BCM? it should be one of the following...
---40-BCM -Body Control Module---
B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
B0433 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
B0502 RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0503 RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0507 LH DRL Relay Circuit
B0508 LH DRL Relay Circuit
B0605 BCM Internal Memory Function
B0844 BCM Temporarily Inhibit ABS
B2403 Front Fog Lamp Switch Circuit
B2408 Rear Fog Lamp Switch Circuit
B2482 Backup Lamp Relay Circuit
B2483 Backup Lamp Relay Circuit
B2527 Horn Relay Circuit
B2528 Horn Relay Circuit
B2573 Hatch Release Switch Circuit (Short to Voltage)
B2578 RF Turn Signal Monitor Circuit (Short to Voltage)
B2583 LF Turn Signal Monitor Circuit (Short to Voltage)
B2587 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (A)
B2588 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (A)
B2592 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (B)
B2583 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (B)
B2597 Traction Control System Switch Circuit
B2721 PASS-Key Detection Circuit
B2722 PASS-Key Detection Circuit
B2723 PASS-Key Detection Circuit
B2735 PASS-Key Programming Mode Active
U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction
---40-BCM -Body Control Module---
B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
B0433 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
B0502 RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0503 RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0507 LH DRL Relay Circuit
B0508 LH DRL Relay Circuit
B0605 BCM Internal Memory Function
B0844 BCM Temporarily Inhibit ABS
B2403 Front Fog Lamp Switch Circuit
B2408 Rear Fog Lamp Switch Circuit
B2482 Backup Lamp Relay Circuit
B2483 Backup Lamp Relay Circuit
B2527 Horn Relay Circuit
B2528 Horn Relay Circuit
B2573 Hatch Release Switch Circuit (Short to Voltage)
B2578 RF Turn Signal Monitor Circuit (Short to Voltage)
B2583 LF Turn Signal Monitor Circuit (Short to Voltage)
B2587 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (A)
B2588 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (A)
B2592 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (B)
B2583 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (B)
B2597 Traction Control System Switch Circuit
B2721 PASS-Key Detection Circuit
B2722 PASS-Key Detection Circuit
B2723 PASS-Key Detection Circuit
B2735 PASS-Key Programming Mode Active
U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction
The code is B2723 HC
#10
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Are you sure that someone didnt disconnect the key sensor on the front of the ignition switch??? Its the small metal can in front that looks like this:
The two wires that come off it go to a connector under the steering column.
Yep, that has to work or the car wont start.
BC
The two wires that come off it go to a connector under the steering column.
Yep, that has to work or the car wont start.
BC
#13
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Try this:
Disconnect the battery and reset the PCM & BCM. Once you reconnect the battery, CLEAR all the DTCs in the DIC and see if anything changes.
Bill
Disconnect the battery and reset the PCM & BCM. Once you reconnect the battery, CLEAR all the DTCs in the DIC and see if anything changes.
Bill
#14
Race Director
Just a guess here, as I'm not technical at all. Is this an auto or manual car? Since the clutch needs to be depressed in order to start a manual, is there some kind of switch or sensor between the clutch and 'start signal" that could be the culprit?
#15
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Its time for a meter! Heres the START schematic.. The interlocks are all shown:
#16
Team Owner
This is often the case when a new battery is installed. I've had the car still not start when initially installing a new battery (assuming it's properly charged), then - no start. I then disconnect the battery for 15-30 minutes to reset the PCM , reconnect it and it starts right up.
#17
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Find The Theft Deterrent Relay (TDR) in the passengers foot well on the fire wall above the BCM.
Use a meter and see if there is 12VDC on the red wire all the time. The PURPLE wire goes to the starter solenoid.
The YELLOW wire should have 12 VDC on it when your trying to crank the engine and have all the interlocks set. clutch pressed, key in crank etc.....
WARNING!!!! Make sure that the car is secure with the "Brake set, wheels chalked and transmission out of gear and or in park"!!!!! If you fail this step, you will be chasing you car down the road!
You can turn the key to ignition ON and short together the large RED and PURPLE wires on the TDR and the starter WILL RUN! If the ignition key is ON, the engine will start and run.
Bill
Use a meter and see if there is 12VDC on the red wire all the time. The PURPLE wire goes to the starter solenoid.
The YELLOW wire should have 12 VDC on it when your trying to crank the engine and have all the interlocks set. clutch pressed, key in crank etc.....
WARNING!!!! Make sure that the car is secure with the "Brake set, wheels chalked and transmission out of gear and or in park"!!!!! If you fail this step, you will be chasing you car down the road!
You can turn the key to ignition ON and short together the large RED and PURPLE wires on the TDR and the starter WILL RUN! If the ignition key is ON, the engine will start and run.
Bill
#18
I had the same thing happen to me. My security light stays on and when I cleared the codes the car would not start. I was getting the following codes B2721 and P1631. I let the car sit for 10 minutes with the battery disconnected and then reconnected the battery and the car started. The only code I have now is the B2721. I have had the car not start before and after letting it sit for a while it would start up. The security light is on constantly. Could this be a problem with the ignition switch that I have read about?
#19
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The ignition switch issue is a strange problem. The switch has FIVE contacts inside the switch:
The issues occurs when one or all of those contacts get burnt. When they get burnt, the output of the switch thru that bad contact can be anything between 0 and full battery voltage. If you only outputting 9 VDC to one of the modules, there are going to be issues. If its 10 VDC you may have some issues some times.
Only way to be sure is to take voltage readings on the power fuses to all the main modules that the ignition switch supplies.
If it were me and I had a doubt, I would rebuild the switch using my rebuild post.
That way, you can rule that issue out of the problem.
You also need to do some voltages measurements on the Theft Deterrent Relay to see what voltages are there if the relay is being told to supply voltage to the starter solenoid or not.
BC
The issues occurs when one or all of those contacts get burnt. When they get burnt, the output of the switch thru that bad contact can be anything between 0 and full battery voltage. If you only outputting 9 VDC to one of the modules, there are going to be issues. If its 10 VDC you may have some issues some times.
Only way to be sure is to take voltage readings on the power fuses to all the main modules that the ignition switch supplies.
If it were me and I had a doubt, I would rebuild the switch using my rebuild post.
That way, you can rule that issue out of the problem.
You also need to do some voltages measurements on the Theft Deterrent Relay to see what voltages are there if the relay is being told to supply voltage to the starter solenoid or not.
BC