Ksths2

Its the end of the drag race season for me and i want to install the new Spec 3+ clutch and yella terra lightweight steel flywheel & DTE strut rear end brace before i add all the fun engine parts to get the clutch properly broken in to the 500 mile break in period but i'm looking for anything i should look out for when changing it?
For example any bolts or steps i should do differently than the service manual says etc.

I really wish i had a physical book that i could just use but i've got this ESI service CD loaded on my computer thats ok but very confusing to look up and looking up the pics are not very easy etc.

Anyone have a good source for getting the service manuals in book form?

thanks!

KCvetteowner

helminc.com will get you there or check ebay...

Remember to replace the pilot bearing inside the crankshaft. Inspect the heck out of the rear engine seal and if you have any doubt replace the rear seal and gasket. If you haven't changed it in 40k miles I would go ahead and do it since it's probably $35 in parts. I assume you have the clutch bleeder on the slave cylinder. Other than taking the torque tube out and spinning it freely to see if everything appears okay, bearings/bushing....

I would inspect the starter and check all the wires around it, make sure the heat from the headers isn't burning them or making them brittle...

waddisme

It would also be a good time to upgrade to aluminum torque tube bushing. And you might as well do the thicker tunnel plate while you have all that stuff out, and some thermal heat shield for the tunnel area for inside comfort. Ditto on the rear seal.

at88mph

Here ya go:

www.cajundude.com/dopeinstall.doc

I'm sure ya already know this, but of course replace the master and slave cylinder. While your there, if it doesn't already have one, purchase a remote bleeder

RedRiderZR1

As for the book. As mentioned helminc is the place for a book. But a nice alternative is to print out the pages needed to do the job. You can grease those up all you want without messing up a paper manual. Thats what I do, even though I also have the books. Some jobs are real messy.

clemsondave

Good writeup, but I've found we can do it by just lowering the rear just off the set pins and rolling it back about 4-5". No need to completely remove it.

Make sure you put in an adjustable master. http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...te/hydraulics/

corvettejoe98

I installed the same clutch last winter in my car. We used the dope install. It took us 12 hours to do but it was also about -5 degrees in the shop (no heat) Anyway though, getting that slave cylinder line off is a bitch. We actually didnt even take it off we found a way around it. I would really consider just dropping the entire rear end and complete trans as one assembly thats what we did. It makes reinstalling it so much easier too. If you have a lift its so much easiser and we also had a huge giant scissor lift for dirtbikes and we also used this smaller motorcycle jack with wheels. It made everything like 10x easier. Its a pain to do it but you will appreciate it when you do it yourself.

Ksths2

FYI, i'm using the dopeinstall instructions and so far no real big issues. i got the rear end/torque tube out of the car and today i installed the DTE rear end brace. Tomorrow night i'll take off the stock clutch stuff and start on trying to remove the pilot bushing which according to "Dopeinstall" sounds to be a lot of fun lol (sarcastic)
I now understand what you guys mean by spend the $50 and buy the remote bleeder, i can't imagine doing it without it so i'm about to order it tonight but one question. why would i replace the slave master cylinder on the end of the torque tube? i mean, it works fine and doesn't seem to have any problems so whats the benefit in ordering "Tick's adjustable slave cylinder for $170?

0Joey@Tick

The Remote Bleeder is definitely money well spent! Our SPEEDbleeder Line will definitely save you a lot of headache in every future bleed.

Your clutch hydraulic system consists of two cylinders - the master cylinder that mounts on the firewall and the slave cylinder that you describe as on the end of the torque tube.

The $170 replacement that you see on our site is a factory GM Slave cylinder. A good idea to replace every time you've got it out since they're known to fail from time to time, and as you can see - it's a whale of a job getting in there to replace it! I think of it as cheap insurance.

Our Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder is the kit that you see on our site for $309.99. It is a very nice upgrade over the stock unit - you can read about all of it's advantages here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...inder-kit.html

ColeTrain'sC5

i really want to just do mine install on my own but i'm nervous about it too. i did my heads/cam install by myself but this just worries me. I may just pay somebody to do it

Ksths2

hey ColeTrain, do it yourself! i'm so far so good on my install, use the "dopeinstall" instructions and its a step by step......... i'll keep everyone up to date on my progress since i'm not done lol

ColeTrain'sC5

yeah it's a hell of alot cheaper to do it myself that's for sure we'll see. i may get some brass ***** and do it over the winter When i did my heads/cam i was nervous but just dug in and did it and it's been great

Dope

Good to see my guide is still getting use. I think I wrote that 5-6 years ago. It's funny going back and reading it. The pics are from my parents' driveway. Nowadays I have my own home and am married and such. A lot of change has happened since the time of writing it!

I still have the FRC and the SS too

Dope

C5 Pete

In my opinion, the slave is the weakest link in the entire drive train. So change it while you're in there.
This is your thread, not Tick's, so I don't mind saying this. You can get the GM OEM slave for a whole lot cheaper than $170. Check around.

I'm in the process of changing mine out right now. I'm not changing the clutch - just the slave and adding a remote bleeder. I'm also putting in an adjustable master. A lot of people tell me I'm crazy and should replace the clutch while I'm there. It took me 3 hours to pull the drive train out by myself. And I would guess it'll take me about 4 hours to get it all back together. In the future, if my clutch goes bad, I'll change it then. Why spend $1000 on parts when I don't have to.

My clutch is still in good shape even after 100+ passes down the 1/4 mile.

camotruK

I still think its nuts no company has made an aftermarket slave to replace the junk plastic cylinder and crappy bearing...mine was destroyed (slave/throwout bearing) at like 17k miles

mulalleybs

So whats the deal with changing out the bearing? I just ordered the spec billet steel flywheel to go with my spec stage 3+ clutch as well as ARP flywheel bolts. My friend and I are prob going to start installing this weekend.

Ksths2

I was a bit shocked as well when the new throwout bearing housing was plastic and such as well.
I'm just waiting on the remote bleeder i ordered from Tick

cyclerage23

I ran remote bleeder to my shifter whole and poked it through between the shifter and the boot. Now I can sit in the car and carefully bleed it into a can or bottle. Some of the vendors lines arent long enough so check your length before you leave in in this position.

rico750sxi

So I am going to do a clutch in the spring. Can someone make a list( or check my list) of what I will need/should replace when doing it.:
Clutch- duh!
Flywheel
Pilot bearing
Master
Slave
Remote Bleeder
Anything I missed?
Thanks, and I read the dope write up. After reading it I am convinced I can do this myself.