socci

So my car was sitting for a month, I had my wife run it every week, but today when I got home and drove her she was working fine until a few minutes ago. Car drove fine all day then when I went to start it after sitting for a few mintues the car cranked for a few turns before she started. Drove fine after that, started it a few times with no problems after that. Was almost home just now with my A/C on creeping in first gear and all of a sudden my baby shut off, (a/c and engine) but still had power. I started it back up fine while driving and took it home. I had three codes as soon as I restarted it, and it was flashing Service Traction Control (which I have had before).

Now I know my c1277 has something to do with the position of my steering wheel, and I can actually see its a little off. I was just clearing this code while I was waiting to fix it.

The other code b0363 has to do with my a/c left acuator or something, and keep in mind my A/C was running when the car died.

The code that worries me is P0856 - Powertrain Indicated Traction Control Malfunction. I have never had this code before with my traction control codes. Would this code cause my car to shut off while driving? I am pretty concerned about driving her if she is going to just die on me. What if Im doing 70 and it dies or something like that. Anyone ever heard of this problem before?


Thanks

Bill Curlee

For a C5 to just DIE, you had to either:

-LOSE ALL POWER *read battery cables loose or poorley connected*

-Ignition Switch issues causing the loss of " Hot in ON and START "

- Serial Data Buss, issue. Codes do not suppert that theory!

Some of those DTCs seem to be a result of the real issue. Clear those DCs and see if they come back.

BC

socci

Codes are cleared, well see what happens tomorrow. The time it took more cranks to start makes me lean towards the ignition switch (but that might not even be related for all I know). Reading up on the ignition switch fix seems like a PITA to do. I hate bringing my car to a dealer, but then again Ive never owned such a nice car.

Bill Curlee

DEALER?????????????????? You dont know no stinking dealer!! You can preforn almost any repair your self. Just ask for help!

BC

socci

Haha yea I know Im just used to owning pieces of crap so I would hate to do anymore damage. I work on freakin jets for a living so you would think I can handle a car, but then again Im trained on them.

ColeTrain'sC5

there is a TON of info to help on these forums and if you look or ask you can get answers on how to fix almost anything. I mean most guys replaced the multifunction switch(me included) instead there is somebody here that figured out how to FIX the damn thing for cheap. I wasted $110 on a used switch. If it goes out again i will be getting this one repaired

Bill Curlee

I fix friggin USN Subs for a living!!

Your car is really nothing different than most any other GM of that year. You have TONS of help for your C5 repairs. There are numerous C5 fellow owners in your area who can help you. All you need to do is find them and ask for assistance.

You just need to convince your self that your CASH is better spent on MODs than shop labor charges.

Heres something that you need to know:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

99 vett babycar

fear not! if its electrical Bill will get you thru it.

CorvetteGurl

Hey there "socci" - I would definitely search this forum for anything C5 - these guys know their stuff and as a gurl, I've used their advice many times on my baby. The next thing I'll be working on is the gas gauge goin to zero/sulphur issue and then on to the soldering behind of the climate control panel. I think some things are easier with "little hands" to pull out stuff, but I get my hubby to help when I need "muscle". All in all, I love this forum and all the knowledge of the guys on here! They're the bomb! Good luck to you.

socci

I appreciate the help, I did all that to pull those codes when I posted this. I did reset them and they havent came back yet. The next time they do Ill have to start troubleshooting. I did find a connector unplugged at the bottem front r/h side of my engine. Looks like it runs up to my hood though.

Anyway you work on subs huh, do you work for Electric Boat by any chance? I used to work there in the sheet metal shop before I joined the Corps.

Bill Curlee

I work for NSWCCD-SSES, Naval Surface Warfare Center, Carderock Division-Ships Systems Engineering Station ... The main site is in Philly but I work out of the New London Sub Base. Im a Sail Rep.