03-06-2015, 12:34 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Steering and Suspension How-Tos
- How to Replace Front Leaf Spring
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourselfers.
Browse all: Steering and Suspension How-Tos
How Difficult to Remove/Replace Front Leaf Spring?
03-23-2010, 08:48 AM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2001
Location: Cockeysville Maryland
Posts: 2,455
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Daytona Jam 1 Veteran
How Difficult to Remove/Replace Front Leaf Spring?
I see from being under my car so much lately that my springs have some cracks and chips in them and I am considering replacing them while I have the car up in the air and some extra time.
The rear does not look difficult at all but I am wondering about the front and how easy that one would be.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The rear does not look difficult at all but I am wondering about the front and how easy that one would be.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
03-23-2010, 09:28 AM
#2
Pro
Member Since: Aug 2008
Location: Syracuse NY
Posts: 573
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great instructions. Not hard to do at all. Take your time and be carefull!.
03-23-2010, 10:02 AM
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2001
Location: Cockeysville Maryland
Posts: 2,455
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Daytona Jam 1 Veteran
03-23-2010, 05:44 PM
#6
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
Posts: 11,061
Received 845 Likes
on
721 Posts
Forget that write up.
Put the car up on jackstands.
Pull off the drivers side tire.
Mark the lower a-arm to crossmember bolt washers so you will get them in the same rotation. Best would be to draw line across the washer and crossmember on each side with a sharpie - fine point. These adjust the front suspension by turning the bolt. You'll get a better idea how these work once you pull them out - the hole in the washer is not centered.
Put a jack under the spring in the Y of the a-arm and take the spring pressure off the a-arm.
Take out the lower 2 a-arm bolts. Don't mix up the front and rear bolts or the direction they installed to get them back in the same spot so marks line up.
Work the jack and the a-arm/suspension until you get the a-arm above the end of the spring.
Put the jack under the end of the spring and jack it up until it's almost lifting the car.
Take off the 4 bolts and 2 plates that hold the spring to the crossmember.
Lower the jack and the spring is out.
Just reverse the steps to put the new one in.
The above should take about 1/2 hour once you get the car on jackstands. Forget taking off the shocks and calipers and sway bar links and everything else in that write-up. Also, many people have had the spring hang up in the a-arm because it has so much arc it doesn't clear and come out meaning you have to really fight it after doing all that work.
The only thing to note is that if you don't think you'll get the a-arm bolts back just like they were to get the car aligned. But then, your car is >10 years old so if you have not had it aligned it's likely due.
Peter
Put the car up on jackstands.
Pull off the drivers side tire.
Mark the lower a-arm to crossmember bolt washers so you will get them in the same rotation. Best would be to draw line across the washer and crossmember on each side with a sharpie - fine point. These adjust the front suspension by turning the bolt. You'll get a better idea how these work once you pull them out - the hole in the washer is not centered.
Put a jack under the spring in the Y of the a-arm and take the spring pressure off the a-arm.
Take out the lower 2 a-arm bolts. Don't mix up the front and rear bolts or the direction they installed to get them back in the same spot so marks line up.
Work the jack and the a-arm/suspension until you get the a-arm above the end of the spring.
Put the jack under the end of the spring and jack it up until it's almost lifting the car.
Take off the 4 bolts and 2 plates that hold the spring to the crossmember.
Lower the jack and the spring is out.
Just reverse the steps to put the new one in.
The above should take about 1/2 hour once you get the car on jackstands. Forget taking off the shocks and calipers and sway bar links and everything else in that write-up. Also, many people have had the spring hang up in the a-arm because it has so much arc it doesn't clear and come out meaning you have to really fight it after doing all that work.
The only thing to note is that if you don't think you'll get the a-arm bolts back just like they were to get the car aligned. But then, your car is >10 years old so if you have not had it aligned it's likely due.
Peter
Last edited by lionelhutz; 03-23-2010 at 05:46 PM.
The following users liked this post:
nsogiba (04-22-2016)
07-14-2015, 08:12 PM
#8
Advanced
Which of these would you do?
Forget that write up.
Put the car up on jackstands.
Pull off the drivers side tire.
Mark the lower a-arm to crossmember bolt washers so you will get them in the same rotation. Best would be to draw line across the washer and crossmember on each side with a sharpie - fine point. These adjust the front suspension by turning the bolt. You'll get a better idea how these work once you pull them out - the hole in the washer is not centered.
Put a jack under the spring in the Y of the a-arm and take the spring pressure off the a-arm.
Take out the lower 2 a-arm bolts. Don't mix up the front and rear bolts or the direction they installed to get them back in the same spot so marks line up.
Work the jack and the a-arm/suspension until you get the a-arm above the end of the spring.
Put the jack under the end of the spring and jack it up until it's almost lifting the car.
Take off the 4 bolts and 2 plates that hold the spring to the crossmember.
Lower the jack and the spring is out.
Just reverse the steps to put the new one in.
The above should take about 1/2 hour once you get the car on jackstands. Forget taking off the shocks and calipers and sway bar links and everything else in that write-up. Also, many people have had the spring hang up in the a-arm because it has so much arc it doesn't clear and come out meaning you have to really fight it after doing all that work.
The only thing to note is that if you don't think you'll get the a-arm bolts back just like they were to get the car aligned. But then, your car is >10 years old so if you have not had it aligned it's likely due.
Peter
Put the car up on jackstands.
Pull off the drivers side tire.
Mark the lower a-arm to crossmember bolt washers so you will get them in the same rotation. Best would be to draw line across the washer and crossmember on each side with a sharpie - fine point. These adjust the front suspension by turning the bolt. You'll get a better idea how these work once you pull them out - the hole in the washer is not centered.
Put a jack under the spring in the Y of the a-arm and take the spring pressure off the a-arm.
Take out the lower 2 a-arm bolts. Don't mix up the front and rear bolts or the direction they installed to get them back in the same spot so marks line up.
Work the jack and the a-arm/suspension until you get the a-arm above the end of the spring.
Put the jack under the end of the spring and jack it up until it's almost lifting the car.
Take off the 4 bolts and 2 plates that hold the spring to the crossmember.
Lower the jack and the spring is out.
Just reverse the steps to put the new one in.
The above should take about 1/2 hour once you get the car on jackstands. Forget taking off the shocks and calipers and sway bar links and everything else in that write-up. Also, many people have had the spring hang up in the a-arm because it has so much arc it doesn't clear and come out meaning you have to really fight it after doing all that work.
The only thing to note is that if you don't think you'll get the a-arm bolts back just like they were to get the car aligned. But then, your car is >10 years old so if you have not had it aligned it's likely due.
Peter
07-14-2015, 10:03 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
Forget that write up.
Put the car up on jackstands.
Pull off the drivers side tire.
Mark the lower a-arm to crossmember bolt washers so you will get them in the same rotation. Best would be to draw line across the washer and crossmember on each side with a sharpie - fine point. These adjust the front suspension by turning the bolt. You'll get a better idea how these work once you pull them out - the hole in the washer is not centered.
Put a jack under the spring in the Y of the a-arm and take the spring pressure off the a-arm.
Take out the lower 2 a-arm bolts. Don't mix up the front and rear bolts or the direction they installed to get them back in the same spot so marks line up.
Work the jack and the a-arm/suspension until you get the a-arm above the end of the spring.
Put the jack under the end of the spring and jack it up until it's almost lifting the car.
Take off the 4 bolts and 2 plates that hold the spring to the crossmember.
Lower the jack and the spring is out.
Just reverse the steps to put the new one in.
The above should take about 1/2 hour once you get the car on jackstands. Forget taking off the shocks and calipers and sway bar links and everything else in that write-up. Also, many people have had the spring hang up in the a-arm because it has so much arc it doesn't clear and come out meaning you have to really fight it after doing all that work.
The only thing to note is that if you don't think you'll get the a-arm bolts back just like they were to get the car aligned. But then, your car is >10 years old so if you have not had it aligned it's likely due.
Peter
Put the car up on jackstands.
Pull off the drivers side tire.
Mark the lower a-arm to crossmember bolt washers so you will get them in the same rotation. Best would be to draw line across the washer and crossmember on each side with a sharpie - fine point. These adjust the front suspension by turning the bolt. You'll get a better idea how these work once you pull them out - the hole in the washer is not centered.
Put a jack under the spring in the Y of the a-arm and take the spring pressure off the a-arm.
Take out the lower 2 a-arm bolts. Don't mix up the front and rear bolts or the direction they installed to get them back in the same spot so marks line up.
Work the jack and the a-arm/suspension until you get the a-arm above the end of the spring.
Put the jack under the end of the spring and jack it up until it's almost lifting the car.
Take off the 4 bolts and 2 plates that hold the spring to the crossmember.
Lower the jack and the spring is out.
Just reverse the steps to put the new one in.
The above should take about 1/2 hour once you get the car on jackstands. Forget taking off the shocks and calipers and sway bar links and everything else in that write-up. Also, many people have had the spring hang up in the a-arm because it has so much arc it doesn't clear and come out meaning you have to really fight it after doing all that work.
The only thing to note is that if you don't think you'll get the a-arm bolts back just like they were to get the car aligned. But then, your car is >10 years old so if you have not had it aligned it's likely due.
Peter
I love this forum!
07-14-2015, 11:31 PM
#11
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
Posts: 11,061
Received 845 Likes
on
721 Posts
The other method is a minimum of both wheels and a good 2 dozen bolts and apparently it can still be a struggle to get the spring around the a-arms. But, it shouldn't mess with the alignment.
Last edited by lionelhutz; 07-14-2015 at 11:33 PM.
07-15-2015, 05:00 PM
#12
Advanced
I like doing it the faster way and my method is a minimum of 1 wheel and 6 bolts. The only downside is that it can change the alignment, but it should be aligned anyways since you'll likely change the ride height of the car. Just make sure you get it high enough. 18" to 20" at the rockers would worked for me.
The other method is a minimum of both wheels and a good 2 dozen bolts and apparently it can still be a struggle to get the spring around the a-arms. But, it shouldn't mess with the alignment.
The other method is a minimum of both wheels and a good 2 dozen bolts and apparently it can still be a struggle to get the spring around the a-arms. But, it shouldn't mess with the alignment.
Last edited by Luke's Papa; 07-15-2015 at 05:23 PM. Reason: added question
07-15-2015, 07:06 PM
#13
Advanced
I like doing it the faster way and my method is a minimum of 1 wheel and 6 bolts. The only downside is that it can change the alignment, but it should be aligned anyways since you'll likely change the ride height of the car. Just make sure you get it high enough. 18" to 20" at the rockers would worked for me.
The other method is a minimum of both wheels and a good 2 dozen bolts and apparently it can still be a struggle to get the spring around the a-arms. But, it shouldn't mess with the alignment.
The other method is a minimum of both wheels and a good 2 dozen bolts and apparently it can still be a struggle to get the spring around the a-arms. But, it shouldn't mess with the alignment.
07-15-2015, 10:13 PM
#14
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
Posts: 11,061
Received 845 Likes
on
721 Posts
I think those bolts are spec'd at 120lbs. I wrote work the jack and suspension as in pull the suspension out as you let the spring down a little at a time to get the arm out past the end of the spring and over the spring. If you just drop the jack you'll trap the arm.
07-18-2015, 05:28 PM
#16
Advanced
You must be kidding! The last bolt, I mean the very last bolt, won't go in. It's the upper A arm bolt toward the front of the car. This stinks. I don't have an air wrench so I know I didn't cross thread it as all I've done with that was remove it. So far I've flushed with PB blather and tried the other 3 bolts and all of them stop after about 1-2 turns. I'm worried about cross threading as I don't see where the back of this hole is. I don't have a tap and die set but if that's what's needed I'll get one. Please help. Thanks
04-22-2016, 10:11 PM
#17
Drifting
Forget that write up.
Put the car up on jackstands.
Pull off the drivers side tire.
Mark the lower a-arm to crossmember bolt washers so you will get them in the same rotation. Best would be to draw line across the washer and crossmember on each side with a sharpie - fine point. These adjust the front suspension by turning the bolt. You'll get a better idea how these work once you pull them out - the hole in the washer is not centered.
Put a jack under the spring in the Y of the a-arm and take the spring pressure off the a-arm.
Take out the lower 2 a-arm bolts. Don't mix up the front and rear bolts or the direction they installed to get them back in the same spot so marks line up.
Work the jack and the a-arm/suspension until you get the a-arm above the end of the spring.
Put the jack under the end of the spring and jack it up until it's almost lifting the car.
Take off the 4 bolts and 2 plates that hold the spring to the crossmember.
Lower the jack and the spring is out.
Just reverse the steps to put the new one in.
The above should take about 1/2 hour once you get the car on jackstands. Forget taking off the shocks and calipers and sway bar links and everything else in that write-up. Also, many people have had the spring hang up in the a-arm because it has so much arc it doesn't clear and come out meaning you have to really fight it after doing all that work.
The only thing to note is that if you don't think you'll get the a-arm bolts back just like they were to get the car aligned. But then, your car is >10 years old so if you have not had it aligned it's likely due.
Peter
Put the car up on jackstands.
Pull off the drivers side tire.
Mark the lower a-arm to crossmember bolt washers so you will get them in the same rotation. Best would be to draw line across the washer and crossmember on each side with a sharpie - fine point. These adjust the front suspension by turning the bolt. You'll get a better idea how these work once you pull them out - the hole in the washer is not centered.
Put a jack under the spring in the Y of the a-arm and take the spring pressure off the a-arm.
Take out the lower 2 a-arm bolts. Don't mix up the front and rear bolts or the direction they installed to get them back in the same spot so marks line up.
Work the jack and the a-arm/suspension until you get the a-arm above the end of the spring.
Put the jack under the end of the spring and jack it up until it's almost lifting the car.
Take off the 4 bolts and 2 plates that hold the spring to the crossmember.
Lower the jack and the spring is out.
Just reverse the steps to put the new one in.
The above should take about 1/2 hour once you get the car on jackstands. Forget taking off the shocks and calipers and sway bar links and everything else in that write-up. Also, many people have had the spring hang up in the a-arm because it has so much arc it doesn't clear and come out meaning you have to really fight it after doing all that work.
The only thing to note is that if you don't think you'll get the a-arm bolts back just like they were to get the car aligned. But then, your car is >10 years old so if you have not had it aligned it's likely due.
Peter
07-11-2016, 11:58 AM
#18
Intermediate
I like doing it the faster way and my method is a minimum of 1 wheel and 6 bolts. The only downside is that it can change the alignment, but it should be aligned anyways since you'll likely change the ride height of the car. Just make sure you get it high enough. 18" to 20" at the rockers would worked for me.
The other method is a minimum of both wheels and a good 2 dozen bolts and apparently it can still be a struggle to get the spring around the a-arms. But, it shouldn't mess with the alignment.
The other method is a minimum of both wheels and a good 2 dozen bolts and apparently it can still be a struggle to get the spring around the a-arms. But, it shouldn't mess with the alignment.
07-12-2016, 10:02 AM
#19
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
Posts: 11,061
Received 845 Likes
on
721 Posts
Your alignment was correct to begin with.
You put the camber bolts back in exactly the same.
You got the ride height the same.
Then, no you would not need to align the car.
07-12-2016, 01:08 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
His front end height most likely will change with a new leaf spring. Mine was cracked on one end and delaminating in the center. My front end was sitting low. With the new leaf spring in, it raised the front end by a couple of inches. Had a 4-wheel alignment done after installation of new leaf spring. Definitetly needed it.