LoneStarLizzard

Bill, I too have the dreaded C 1214 code. Can you send me the information? Email is: joworthsr@hotmail.com

Thanks.

The Lizzard

LoneStarLizzard

Mine is a 2002. Will the 2001 "fix" also apply to my 2002? And if so, is the same relay part number applicable?

The Lizzard

chuck1992

So heres a little update on my car! I took it in for service after $ 1,200 it runs great. The only problem now is my head lights wont close sometimes so i just blindly guessing its not the fuses I think it is the grounds because sometimes it works other times it doesn't can anyone give me some ideas where to start or what ground to look at first.

grapenape

I know this thread is pretty old. If your still following can I get the information as I have recently got these warnings


cnapier_us@yahoo.com

LoneStarLizzard

All of the information you need is disclosed within this thread. Nothing needs to be emailed.

The Lizzard

eugene.boston

c,heck vehicle soon light continues to flash, and alternates with traction control warning skid controlwarning. ABS light and active control light stays on. this is on my 2003 Vette. Chevy dealer could not figure it out , but wanted to keep the car several. days to keep checking. since the car is running well I declinedt. sounded like it was going to get very expensive. The last car I had something like this on was the 2007 I never figured it out either, but traded it in for a C7. so far no lights on the C7. good luck , Gene

Camaroboy44

On this issue did your lights come back on as soon as you cleared the code mine comes back on with in seconds of resetting the codes

jasperc5

add me to the list dsea1950@att.net

LVance

please send info/pics to me as well. norcalfirearms@suddenlink.net

awches

I did that procedure on my 03 Coupe about 3 months ago. No 1214's since. Did all from underneath.

1colon

I can really use the help too.
Rcolon011@cfl.rr.com

Thank you..

awches

I lost one of the center torque X screws when putting the unit back on. But had used a very light coat of silicone seal on all surfaces so no problem. Next time I would use something to hold the screw to the tool. Tape, silicone seal.

eyedrron

Could I get you to send me your sticky on tc/ah/abs. Thank you. Eyedrron@aol.com

ttgrep

Please send me the info as well. Thank you.. .dickolson@earthlink.net

Jacokyla2011

Please send to me as well jerrya.bradcole@yahoo.com.
Thanks

LoneStarLizzard

Following is a comprehensive discussion of this area, specifically including links to the appropriate Forum threads:1. Link to original sticky regarding Service ABS, Service Traction Control, Service Active Handling and EBCM

First, see post #65 in the sticky: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...in-here-4.html Next, read: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...andling-4.html Also read the Bill Curlee write-up: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tion-long.html To repair the relay that is likely causing the C 1214 fault code:Read the detail “how to” for disassembling the EBCM and replacing the relay by NVUSGT, which is here: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...r-fleabay.html This is from post #97 on page 5 of the above thread:For anyone that has not done the EBCM repair yet, here are a few things that I experienced, that you might watch for as you do it.
1. getting the torx bits off was a big hassle because I did not want to remove the air dam, or disturb the maf sensor electrical connector which is working like a champ. I also did not remove the brake valve nuts, and insulators, because I did not want to disturb all the brake lines, while wrestling with the EBCM. It took longer, but I feel good about not maybe causing any brake line leaks or failures from wrestling them back and forth, adding metal fatigue to them.
2. you should take your time and be extra careful with the plastic electrical connectors. The plastic is old and brittle. Break that, and the only way you will get a new one is by ordering a new EBCM for $997.00, I broke off the top edge of one of the plastic pins on the grey retention handle. Not enough to make it inoperable, but enough to make me be a LOT more cautious as I proceeded. I found it is better to remove the electrical connectors from underneath with the car jacked up.
Actual separation of ebcm from BPMV was not so bad. a couple of taps on a flat blade screw driver with a hammer did the job.

3. Getting the ebcm opened up was a real headache. I tried the posted suggestions of using a screw. That did not quite work out. The screw broke from applying too much torque. Took about a half hour to get that screw off with a vise grips, bench vise, and adjustable wrench to keep the vise grips from slipping. I tried getting some of the gasket loosened up with a razor blade, and some taps with a hammer. I used a scribe to gouge out excess sealant, then jammed a very thin diameter punch into the hole on the back. I supported the edges of the EBCM on blocks of wood, then took a few whacks at the punch with a nice heavy hammer. Finally, the cover opened up just a crack, and I was able to use flat screw drivers to work it off.
I was pretty close to just throwing the EBCM out onto the driveway in disgust, but I finally got that sucker opened up.
4. while heating up the soldering iron, I used a Dremel wire brush to clean off the EBCM housing of old sealant and gasket material. There is not a lot of clearance at all on the ebcm case and the cover plate, so I wanted to ensure when I sealed it back up, there was only fresh new sealant, and no debris preventing a nice good perfect seal.
5. sealing the ebcm up. I used a bead of clear automotive RTV silicone sealant near the base of the electrical parts, to replace what I had removed, and to ensure the unit was vibration resistant. I applied super blue automotive RTV sealant (rated for -65 degrees to 500 degrees F) on the gasket edges of the ebcm housing. Here is my big mistake on this. I found that no matter how careful I was, putting the housing onto the EBCM, some sealant would get onto the top and sides of the round solenoids. I spent a lot of time carefully cleaning that off, and using toothpicks, and magnifying glass to ensure sealant would not jam up those solenoids. If I were to do it all over again, I would recommend placing the sealant on the base edges of the ebcm, below the solenoids, then lower the housing onto the ebcm. That way there is little to no risk of sealant jamming up the solenoids. finally buttoned it all up, and let it set for a while, then cleaned up the garage a bit. I installed the ebcm, and took the car for a test drive.
6. Don’t forget to seal up that hole on the ebcm!!! I forgot. I remembered after I had already installed the ebcm, taken a shower and cleaned up. I had to remove all those torx bolts and pull the ebcm out again, seal the hole and re-install it. (of course the hole is conveniently not accessible without pulling the whole unit out.)
Anyway, thank you guys for the posts, and this sure saved me a lot of cash. I saved $997.00 on a new ebcm, and 300-400 bucks for dealership labor. It also feels good to save the $150.00 that abs fixer charges. My total cost was about $9 for a couple relays, which were not needed (nice to have as spares though), $11.00 for a couple tubes of sealant, and few scraped knuckles.Post #55 (blackdak318) adds: Tools that will help include:Flush Cut snips...we cut the solders/posts down flat with the flush cuts and it worked great. Next thing is make sure you get a soldering iron that gets HOT and has a very thin point. The first iron we used was not getting hot enough and the tip was too large to get into the post holes.Multiple contributors suggest that re-soldering the joints may be the correct fix, and that replacing the relay may not be required.Toddk adds (post #65): I didn't have a clear understanding of that hole in the cover until I got mine apart. It is a 1/8" passage through the shell to the front plate - you cannot hit a circuit board even if you wanted to. I used a Craftsman 1/8" punch, set the closest beveled mounting ear on a bench vise, and kept hammering until the sound changed indicating that the bead had broken. Then screwdrivers all around to finish separating the silicone.

An alternative to the punch would be a self-tapping screw that has a minor diameter of around 1/8" to get a good bite. Sorry I don't have an exact dimension, but hopefully this helps. (Note: I used a stainless steel screw to do this approach...less chance of the screw snapping off and thoroughly ruining your day.)Customworksking (post #39) suggest using a heat gun to loosen the back panel of the EBCM.

* * * * * * ** * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * ** * * * * *
Hope all of this helps. Many of us have done this repair sung the above guidance, and consequently can testify that the above discussion is sufficient to pull you through.

The Lizzard

5oneill

Bill could you also send this to me?

mdoneill1973@gmail.com

Buzartiano

subscribed

Kevin Minton

rocknrock

Hi Bill
Same problem here. 99 C5 with "Service Traction System" & "Service Active Handling" messages on DIC.
No ABS light , but TCS icon won't go out and TCS button doesn't work.
I found a broken rear stabilizer bar link - so figured that must be the problem.
Fixed it - but light still on with messages.
Please send me the tutorial with photos as well. rocknrock@shaw.ca
And thank you for helping so many members with this issue.