Driver side headlight acting a fool can't figure this one out
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Driver side headlight acting a fool can't figure this one out
Hey guys my driver side headlight is acting weird all of a sudden. Last night I turned the lights on then when it was time to turn them off they went down but the driver side went halfway back up. The passenger side went down fine. No weird sounds and I replaced both motor gears with the brass unit awhile back. What could it be now?
I also replaced the headlamp control module at the same time I did the brass gears since my stock one took a crap. When the stocker went out the passenger light worked fine but the driver would go up but not down. I don't think it's the module again but it was used so who knows.
I also replaced the headlamp control module at the same time I did the brass gears since my stock one took a crap. When the stocker went out the passenger light worked fine but the driver would go up but not down. I don't think it's the module again but it was used so who knows.
#2
Race Director
Thread Starter
I may have the answer so let me know if anyone has any input. Mine is a 01 not sure if that matter?
Heres the fix:
Number: 00-08-42-002
Subject: Left Headlamp Door Does Not Stay Closed (Shim Headlamp Door Motor/Actuator and Replace Insulators)
Model Year: 2000 Chevrolet Corvette
Condition
Some customers may comment that the left front headlamp door does not remain closed after the headlamps are turned off. Others may comment
that the left headlamp door closes when the headlamps are turned off, but then reopens. In either case, the right headlamp door operates properly.
Correction
Important
The following information applies to the left front headlamp door motor/actuator only. It does not apply to and should not be performed on the right front headlamp door motor/actuator.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v221/DeeGee/TSBImage.jpg
[/IMG]
Install one washer (2) between the left headlamp door motor/actuator (1) and the mounting bracket (3) at each of the three attaching bolt locations. Also replace the
insulator (4) on each of the two mounting bracket travel stop tabs (5) as shown. For information on headlamp motor/actuator removal, see the Headlamp Motor/Actuator
Replacement procedure in the Lighting sub-section of Body & Accessories in the appropriate Service Manual.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty Per Vehicle
11505463 Washer 3
16524060 Insulator 2
Heres the fix:
Number: 00-08-42-002
Subject: Left Headlamp Door Does Not Stay Closed (Shim Headlamp Door Motor/Actuator and Replace Insulators)
Model Year: 2000 Chevrolet Corvette
Condition
Some customers may comment that the left front headlamp door does not remain closed after the headlamps are turned off. Others may comment
that the left headlamp door closes when the headlamps are turned off, but then reopens. In either case, the right headlamp door operates properly.
Correction
Important
The following information applies to the left front headlamp door motor/actuator only. It does not apply to and should not be performed on the right front headlamp door motor/actuator.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v221/DeeGee/TSBImage.jpg
[/IMG]
Install one washer (2) between the left headlamp door motor/actuator (1) and the mounting bracket (3) at each of the three attaching bolt locations. Also replace the
insulator (4) on each of the two mounting bracket travel stop tabs (5) as shown. For information on headlamp motor/actuator removal, see the Headlamp Motor/Actuator
Replacement procedure in the Lighting sub-section of Body & Accessories in the appropriate Service Manual.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty Per Vehicle
11505463 Washer 3
16524060 Insulator 2
The following 2 users liked this post by Chicago1:
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#8
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
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When you pull that plastic stop off there is a metal tab underneath. It's best if the arm hits that metal tab. If it is missing the tab then put a washer or even multiple washers on the bolts to space the motor over until it hits the tab. Otherwise, the arm mashes the plastic stop and eventually passes by the end of the metal tab.
There is at least one gear that now comes with a metal piece to hold the motor together. I'd check and see if you could get that piece.
Peter
There is at least one gear that now comes with a metal piece to hold the motor together. I'd check and see if you could get that piece.
Peter
#9
Melting Slicks
Different conditions I'm having but I will try the spacer washers and check the insulators.
Mine just won't open sometimes unless I manually turn the **** a tad to loosen the motor up.
Mine just won't open sometimes unless I manually turn the **** a tad to loosen the motor up.
#12
I figure the motor is closing too tight and the overcurrent circuit to shut down the relay driving the motor sees too much current when trying to raise, and shuts down. Figure I will try new stops and see if it helps.
#13
Thank you thank you thank you.
This is outstanding. I did the brass gear retro this winter and saved myself $1600 over what the dealer was going to charge me for the headlight replacement. I bot the ones with the reinforcing bracket. They worked great!
Yesterday, my left headlamp starts fluttering. I turn the headlamps off and it goes up and down up and down up and down and up and down and then stops about two inches from shut.
I could have cried.
I haven't visited this forum since winter. What a great post this is.
I fixed it a little differently. I pulled the white plastic bumper off and turned it upside down and pressed it back on on the stud.
The edge that has been struck from the headlamp going up and down had knocked a chunk loose over the past 9 years.
Works fine now.
Cost of repair? About 3 minutes of time.
Again, Thank you.
This is outstanding. I did the brass gear retro this winter and saved myself $1600 over what the dealer was going to charge me for the headlight replacement. I bot the ones with the reinforcing bracket. They worked great!
Yesterday, my left headlamp starts fluttering. I turn the headlamps off and it goes up and down up and down up and down and up and down and then stops about two inches from shut.
I could have cried.
I haven't visited this forum since winter. What a great post this is.
I fixed it a little differently. I pulled the white plastic bumper off and turned it upside down and pressed it back on on the stud.
The edge that has been struck from the headlamp going up and down had knocked a chunk loose over the past 9 years.
Works fine now.
Cost of repair? About 3 minutes of time.
Again, Thank you.
#15
Fixed lights are nice, but too $$ for me right now.
I am convienced I have found my problem - the white plastic bumper that I flipped over had also worn totally through on the back side, so the metal arm on the motor was again hitting the metal stop with no 'buffer' in between. My white stop WAS in really bad shape after being mangled when the arm was not fully seated to the motor shaft (see prior post a couple back).
I had a hard time finding the little white plastic bumpers (gm discontinued them) so I just cut a ~ 1/2" long piece of rubber hose (~ 3/8" od and ~1/8" id) I had laying around and put in on the metal stop with some adhesive. Fingers crossed, but it has been working great for a couple of weeks. I have not yet physically inspected the hose-stop bumper- to see if it is wearing quickly or not. The rubber (or white plastic stop) allow the system to sense some resistance (but with give) when nearing the stop, so the circuit that senses the motor current has time to shut it down, by openning the relay, before driving the gear really hard. I am convinced this is the situation - I may have to find a better 'stop' if my rubber hose wears out too fast.
I am convienced I have found my problem - the white plastic bumper that I flipped over had also worn totally through on the back side, so the metal arm on the motor was again hitting the metal stop with no 'buffer' in between. My white stop WAS in really bad shape after being mangled when the arm was not fully seated to the motor shaft (see prior post a couple back).
I had a hard time finding the little white plastic bumpers (gm discontinued them) so I just cut a ~ 1/2" long piece of rubber hose (~ 3/8" od and ~1/8" id) I had laying around and put in on the metal stop with some adhesive. Fingers crossed, but it has been working great for a couple of weeks. I have not yet physically inspected the hose-stop bumper- to see if it is wearing quickly or not. The rubber (or white plastic stop) allow the system to sense some resistance (but with give) when nearing the stop, so the circuit that senses the motor current has time to shut it down, by openning the relay, before driving the gear really hard. I am convinced this is the situation - I may have to find a better 'stop' if my rubber hose wears out too fast.
#17
Heel & Toe
mine just started doing this as well - I swapped a couple of bumpers around as they were pretty worn and its cured. I did go ahead and order a replacement set off of ebay to replace the mangled bumpers
https://www.ebay.com/itm/C5-Corvette...3d9b%7Ciid%3A1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/C5-Corvette...3d9b%7Ciid%3A1
#18
Melting Slicks
Old thread. Yeah, the bumpers were my issue. I modified mine to get the motor to stop quicker. With the worn bumpers, it tightens up the worm gear too tight.