73Corvette

IF it were mine I would either get the old starter rebuilt or get a new one... the solenoid is shot, the starter lives in a pretty hostile environment so you'd expect it to not much last longer either even with a new solenoid on an old starter... IMHO

dogboy

True I will look for a new starter & be done with it.

Stroker87

what brand headers do you have? a lot of the newer ones srop in and out with out a problem, might just be easier to take off the header

I have the old style kooks that go in from the top its a PITA to remove them

dogboy

Long tube Belanger headers with stage 8 lock bolts. It looks like it may be possible to squeeze out the starter but not sure until under car.

dogboy

I got the sucker out. Wasn't as bad as I thought. Jacked up 12" off ground & dropped front wheels on some steel ramps I had, plenty enough room to get under there Got the header off & 3 bolt flange connection without any difficulty. I pulled out the 2 bolts & removed wires, bingo, that was it. Now waiting for new starter in mail. 1 week delivery time. I spent about 3 hrs removing & probably need 4hrs to get it back in. Now to lick my wounds & take a boatload of ibuprophen until next time.

Stroker87

I did H/C/I on the 10th still have the scars lol

dogboy

Just put in new starter & started right up. Damn code P1637 still showing up but voltage reads 13.5?? WTF. If a fusible link is bad (I didn't see anything unusual while under there) would car even start? Oh yea minimal scars but some Indian burn marks on arm from squeezing in tight space.

dogboy

I had alternator tested as Good on a bench today so I may need to look at those fusible links one more time. Volts show 13-13.3 when driving but drop to 12.5- 12.8 when A/c is on & lights on. If I bump down the blower to low volts will climb up a bit.

Bill Curlee

What are you using to monitor that voltage when you are driving?????

If its the IPC volt meter or digital DIC reading,,, you are NOT seeing TRUE battery voltage.

You are seeing the voltage reading being supplied buy the "IGNITION SWITCH" which is way different than the voltage read directly off the battery or BaTT terninal on the alternator.

The ignition switch is fed directly off the battery buss BUT,,, the contacts inside the ignition switch can get dirty corroded burnt and will cause a voltage loss (as seen on that IPC meter).

Test the voltage out of the Cigar lighter or directly on the Battery terminals for a true picture of what the charging system is doing.

You will need a good DC Volt/OHM/AMP meter if you own a C5!

G8One2

Did you purchase a new OEM AC Delco alternator from the dealership?

G8One2

Only reason i ask is because i had a similar issue on my Pontiac G8. I purchased an aftermarket alternator through Amazon that was brand new, appeared to work and charge properly but would still throw faults. Sent it back for an exchange, and the same thing happened with the replacement. I wasn't until i spend the cash on an OEM unit from the dealership for it to work properly. You can find a thread to reference here http://www.g8board.com/forums/showth...ght=alternator

dogboy

Bill Curlee : Yes I was using the dash gauge & DIC readings. They were bouncing between 13.3 to 12 but know always in the 11's. I ran some readings with a hand held meter & got these readings. With ignition switch off
S pin 7.8-8.1V
F pin 0
L pin 0.1v
With switch in on position:
S pin 7.6-8.0
F pin 0.1v
L pin 9.75 v

Battery shows 11.8V when running meter from Pos to Neg post.

I ran a heavy gauge wire from pos battery post to alt battery & got the same 11.8 v read.

Stroker 87: No I still have the original Alternator.

Bill Curlee

Where are you reading these voltges???

Your battery is LOW!

What are the readings with engine running??

dogboy

Used a multi meter for readings.
BUT !!!! I fixed the sucka. it was the wire connection off the starter solenoid. I didn't catch it last time. Right where the wire connects to the ring it was loose & only hanging on by a thread. It broke off upon inspection. It would be the D wire, ( thick red wire with fusible link), not the larger battery one. I also replaced the other small wire while I was there. It now runs in charging mode & code is history) Thanks for all the help

Bill Curlee

Good job! Now,,, Drive it like you stole it!!

Bill

chachi361

Just want to thank u gentleman for putting me in the right path to fix this problem. Would of never looked into thoes fusable links. Mine were corroded at the ends causeing the charging fault.

corvet786c

I have been getting this code P1637 H as well, I took off the passenger side header and went to the solinoid on the starter. I did notice that the main large bolt, when I tried to loosen it the whole solinoid turn slightly, not the actual bolt but the whole solinoid , could this be the problem, the terminals at the alt are tight along with the grnd wires, I checked. Hope bill can advise this.

corvet786c

Where are all the electrical guru's why can't you answer my question.

ZZ06

Just adding my .02. Ive never had the whole solenoid turn. Are you sure it wasn't the nut along with the wires turning?? Either way, that shouldn't be happening.

corvet786c

NO, the whole solinoid is not turning, just the top portion where the wires are connected, turning slightly.

Its weird because on the DIC I am getting code p1637 in history not current, sometimes it comes on sometimes not. My voltage seems ok on the DIC initial start up 14.2 then gradually going to 13.5 volts.