0Superman09

Hello guys, I currently have a cam only set-up in my 1999 c5. I was planning on going down the blower route, but after falling in love with the road course, I think I want to do an NA build. I currently run the "EPP blower cam" 232/240 .595/.608 115. It makes good power NA but mainly up top and sort of lacks in torque. 407/367 mustang dyno. I want to keep the stock shortblock and run a solid heads/cam/intake combo that will make great power for where I want it on the road course! I will also run on 93 octane, and would like it to mate up well with 3.90 rear gears + MN6 trans. I LOVE a healthy lope at idle and don't mind losing driveability, I want something nasty Any suggestions from the pro's on a killer NA 346 set-up? Thanks!

-Jon

zeevette

You're going to get alot of conflicting advice, considering your stated preferences are also in conflict. A big, lumpy cam isn't the best choice for road courses, or street driving either. Lots depends on the type of track, be it twisty, low speed, or a track that allows more revs. I, personally prefer a cam that maximizes the power "under the curve". There's alot of variables, but something around 228-236@112, to 114 would be a great street/track cam that doesn't overpower the stock heads on your 99. Of course, good heads will really make a difference, especially if you bump the CR to 11:1, or there abouts. Supporting mods, such as headers, and a LS6 intake is also worth considering. A nice SC kit trumps all of the above.


I think the things holding your TQ level back, are your heads

0Superman09

Yea, I will be doing some nice heads and bumping the compression up to pick up some torque! I am liking what I see from the Trickflow 215s, maybe mate a FAST 102, no idea on the cam...

vettenuts

How about the GMPP heads and the ASA cam

And make sure you properly address the timing chain and harmonic damper if you are road racing.

0Superman09

They are already beefed up from my current cam swap More info on the GMPP heads and ASA cam please!

vettenuts

Looks like the heads are no longer offered.

AU N EGL

Do not have a cam with a lift over .600 That is the number one reason for engine failure on road course.
Number 2 reason is poor oiling and lack of oil cooling

forget the 114 lsa 112+4 or 110+2 with a small cam

remember Road race / track day use is not so much how much hp but how much torque to get you OUT of corners and UP TO speed, then the short burst of 5500 to redline

Your engine spends most of its time 2400 to 5200 rpms. So a FLAT torque curve is needed.


a killer 346 ? AFR 205s, with a 224/228 581/588 112+4.

LS6 intake/ TPIS90 tb or a Fast 90/90 Fast 102 it TOO BIG and will kill throttle response

LG PRO LTs, and a good single air intake, Haltech, black wing, Calloway Honker

OIL cooler is a must, accu-sump should be considered and is the best mod for most road course cars.

and transmission cooler for the MN6


I run a 224/224 581/581 112+4 243 heads that are polished not ported, LS6 intake with an 85 mm tpis tb, tpis LTs and basically straight pipes

Well into the low 400s with rwhp and rwtq

AU N EGL

GMPP ASA 226/236 525/525 110

Heads are LPE prepared 243 heads.

88958622 12564243
Combustion Chamber 60.9
Intake Port 50.8
Exhaust port 33.8

the other road race cam is the Cup Cam
GM- Grand am cup 88958606 239/251 570/570 106



Notice the low lift cams? that is for sustained HIGH RPM use.

The Cup cam with LPE heads on a 346, LS6Intake/ TPIS 90 tb combo, 100 octane, dry sump and a few other race parts, well into the mid 550 hp. But this is a pure race engine, to be rebuilt every 25 hours of use.

vettenuts

If you can find QTP's used, they will serve you better

0Superman09

well boy oh boy have I been getting different views on the cam set-ups here!

Maybe I should clear one thing up first. This is not an all out race car. It is my street car that will be enjoyed thoroughly on the road courses! Dual purpose, street/track car. The cam I have now is not good for the road track, so I want to swap it out to something more suitable, but still keep some thump as I love the rumble it has at idle... but I need more torque! A head swap to some trickflow 215's I was thinking and milling them/flycut pistons to up the compression in the 11.3 range should be fine with 93 pump and help with more torque. Intake I have an ls6 currently and am unsure if more would help or hurt me?!?!?

printmanjackson

get your heads first then get a cam spec'd custom just for your set up

here is the guy that can spec you a cam http://www.guerragroup.com/camshaft_help.htm

FASST LN

One thing that kind of sucks (and I'm in this same boat) is you have a '99. In the '01 and newer they used better rod bolts so you could spin the engine over 6,500 rpm all day without too much worry.
Our cars you really don't want to spin much over 6,000 rpm on a consistant basis.
And the kicker is to replace the rod bolts with something better you have to remove the engine from the car. There is quite a bit more labor involved and in my opinion, not worth it.

I'm pretty happy with my setup btw and I built it with roadcourse duty in mind.

0Superman09

gotchya. Haha, I spin my 99' well over 6k all day right now. Oh well, she has been doing great and doesn't have me worried yet. I shift at about 6700 ish and rev to 7k at the drag strip through the traps. (About done dragging this car now, found it's heart lays on the road course )

tstar

I'm probably going this route also...

0Superman09

Yeah Tim! I have this Procharger sitting here wanting to go on, but I really feel that is not the route I want to take with the car anymore. I'd like an all NA build for my power, make it enough for the street but shine on the track! Also with the blower I KNOW I would have more issues keeping the car planted on the track, and one big concern would be cooling issues with all the piping, intercooler, etc blocking air to all my schtuff!

tstar

My thoughts exactly... I just have to weigh how often I'll be hitting the track versus cost ect. I've already dumped a ton of money into the car to get it decent on the track...

We both need about 200 hours of seat time before we think about this. But I can already tell I want/need more low end torque... Now that I can stick and stop.

Keep that blower handy, I may buy it!

Tim

AU N EGL

also look at who DOES ROAD / TRACK DAYS

would you like to know how many blown engines I have seen on for track days in the past 5 years, and what the causes are? cams with lifts over .600 and lack of oiling.

Not to burst you bubble and we all love HP, Lots of HP, unless you have very deep pockets, keep it simple for reliability.
The Trick Flow 215s milled to 60-61cc or so will work great. Keep the cam smallish, No cam lifts over .600. Not too large of duration on either.
An oil cooler is a must.

my car:

tstar

Thanks Tom!!!!

When are you coming up north so you can teach me a few things?????

Tim

AU N EGL

Watkins Glen is on my Bucket List. have not been there since right before Woodstock ( wait ? cant remember if I was even at Woodstock ?? )

HOPE fully I should be up to Pheonixville & Palm PA a few times this winter.

98vettedave

The weak rod bolts in early C's is not a myth. The warning of a possible failure at sustain high RPM's is published in GM high performance parts catalog. Back in the day (2001-old combo) I had Les Stanford Chevrolet in Dearborn MI replace my 98 rod bolts with LS6 rod bolts part #11610158,this was done without the necessity of pulling the engine. Obviously the oil pan is removed and the rod bolt are replaced from the bottom end.

If you intend to become a serious road racer (numerous laps annually) then I believe that the rod bolts should be a primary concern...just my two cents.