DTC C1233 RF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
12-02-2010, 10:23 PM
#21
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I just went through this exercise. Did all the meter testing and tightening the pins etc. Testing always showed the cable as good all the way to the module. Finally replaced the sensor to chassis cable with a new one on advise of a GM tech. Fixed it.
That stupid cable was intermittant - the only time it was good was while I was testing it!
That stupid cable was intermittant - the only time it was good was while I was testing it!
12-02-2010, 10:44 PM
#22
Melting Slicks
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I'll give the ole wheels a spin tomorrow and post, thanks for all the help guys, I had to drive it today on business, I'll try and knock it out tomorrow if nothing comes up.
Thanks for all the help,
Jeff
Thanks for all the help,
Jeff
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ZO6FL (11-20-2016)
12-03-2010, 02:46 AM
#23
Melting Slicks
If the "spin test" checks out (which I'll bet it does).
I'd swap the jumper harness from the driver side to the passenger...if the code swaps sides, your problem is the harness.
I ended up just replacing both sides harness.
You could also as I said before (IF the test shows the proper voltage) find a connector to break apart and pick at the female end of the connector on the jumper harness until you are sure that it makes a really good and tight positive connection and grabs the male lead.
If the wires are not broken, sliced or torn open in anyway and both ends have good connections from the actual male to female leads...the jumper harness has nothing else to it.
What seems to happen for most is when the car hits a bump or pothole sometimes even minor ones it will throw the code. The lead can probably become so loose that even the vibration of the engine running could set the code I would assume also.
I'd swap the jumper harness from the driver side to the passenger...if the code swaps sides, your problem is the harness.
I ended up just replacing both sides harness.
You could also as I said before (IF the test shows the proper voltage) find a connector to break apart and pick at the female end of the connector on the jumper harness until you are sure that it makes a really good and tight positive connection and grabs the male lead.
If the wires are not broken, sliced or torn open in anyway and both ends have good connections from the actual male to female leads...the jumper harness has nothing else to it.
What seems to happen for most is when the car hits a bump or pothole sometimes even minor ones it will throw the code. The lead can probably become so loose that even the vibration of the engine running could set the code I would assume also.
Last edited by 00Corvette; 12-03-2010 at 02:48 AM.
11-11-2016, 05:30 PM
#24
Take the RF wheel off and you'll easily see the wires coming from the wheel hub assembly. Check this wire to insure its connected at the car properly and look for broken, chafed or shorted wires to the frame. Check the connector itself to insure its got clean contacts and so on. No, the hub is not rebuildable but you can get a high quality new one from AutoZone by Tiemkin. Good price and they work great if you need one.
