Front Subframe getting dropped, any recommended upgrades/mods?
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Rockland County NY
Posts: 2,182
Received 470 Likes
on
145 Posts
2020 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2016 C5 of the Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '12, '14
Front Subframe getting dropped, any recommended upgrades/mods?
Hi All,
As my engine has 150k on it, the upper and lower oil pan gaskets finally need to be replaced. As this requires the subframe to drop, I was wondering if there's anything difficult to access in that region that i should consider upgrading or replacing while the subframe is off? Ideally, I'd like to go a while without dropping it again. Thanks in advance for your input!
As my engine has 150k on it, the upper and lower oil pan gaskets finally need to be replaced. As this requires the subframe to drop, I was wondering if there's anything difficult to access in that region that i should consider upgrading or replacing while the subframe is off? Ideally, I'd like to go a while without dropping it again. Thanks in advance for your input!
The following users liked this post:
jd_black_00 (04-23-2019)
#3
Instructor
Improved Racing trap door oil pan baffles are nice if you ever plan to take the car on a road course.
If you've thought of adding an oil cooler, factory C6 oil cooler lines go in easily with the sub-frame removed. There are other oil cooler options that don't require dropping the sub-frame of course.
If you've thought of adding an oil cooler, factory C6 oil cooler lines go in easily with the sub-frame removed. There are other oil cooler options that don't require dropping the sub-frame of course.
The following users liked this post:
jd_black_00 (04-23-2019)
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Rockland County NY
Posts: 2,182
Received 470 Likes
on
145 Posts
2020 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2016 C5 of the Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '12, '14
Improved Racing trap door oil pan baffles are nice if you ever plan to take the car on a road course.
If you've thought of adding an oil cooler, factory C6 oil cooler lines go in easily with the sub-frame removed. There are other oil cooler options that don't require dropping the sub-frame of course.
If you've thought of adding an oil cooler, factory C6 oil cooler lines go in easily with the sub-frame removed. There are other oil cooler options that don't require dropping the sub-frame of course.
#5
Team Owner
Agreed and a delrin steering rack bushing from Doug Rippie Motorsports. Remote clutch bleeder for a manual.
My college roommate is running HPDEs with one in that mileage realm. We did Pfadt poly bushings last summer. If an injector wasn't leaking down, we likely wouldn't have re-ringed it last fall. An Improved crank scraper is a no down side HP mod. You can do baffles without dropping the pan on a batwing pan.
My college roommate is running HPDEs with one in that mileage realm. We did Pfadt poly bushings last summer. If an injector wasn't leaking down, we likely wouldn't have re-ringed it last fall. An Improved crank scraper is a no down side HP mod. You can do baffles without dropping the pan on a batwing pan.
Last edited by 93Polo; 04-24-2019 at 09:48 AM.
The following users liked this post:
jd_black_00 (04-24-2019)
#6
Melting Slicks
Sway bars, sway bar bushings, sway bar end links, shocks, tie rod ends, z06/z51 spring. All this stuff needs to get disconnected anyways. Would also be a good time to adjust the ride height since you will need an alignment afterwards anyways.
If you replace the balancer (which you should), you might as well remove the front cover and install a new timing set, timing chain dampener, front main seal, and oil pump. If you want to go even further, this would be an ideal time to install a cam. If you want more rpms, you should be able to access the rod bolts with the pan off.
Mine has 140k on the clock, and I drive it like I stole it. Although I have rebuilt like 3/4 of the whole car so far lol.
If you replace the balancer (which you should), you might as well remove the front cover and install a new timing set, timing chain dampener, front main seal, and oil pump. If you want to go even further, this would be an ideal time to install a cam. If you want more rpms, you should be able to access the rod bolts with the pan off.
Mine has 140k on the clock, and I drive it like I stole it. Although I have rebuilt like 3/4 of the whole car so far lol.
Last edited by SaberD; 04-24-2019 at 10:35 AM.
The following users liked this post:
jd_black_00 (04-24-2019)