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Great post. I was able to remove the module and after a little work I got the cover off.
Looking at the posts on the resister I don't really see any obvious spots that need to be re soldered on the resister, should I re solder all 5 posts? and is there an easy way to test the resister to see if that's bad like using an ohm meter? I have seen many sights that rebuild these units from as little as 59 dollars anyone have any Experience with any of the rebuild guys? Thanks everyone for all your great posts and help. I live in western MA. Can anyone tell me if there are there any good corvette clubs in our area
Great post. I was able to remove the module and after a little work I got the cover off.
Looking at the posts on the resister I don't really see any obvious spots that need to be re soldered on the resister, should I re solder all 5 posts? and is there an easy way to test the resister to see if that's bad like using an ohm meter? I have seen many sights that rebuild these units from as little as 59 dollars anyone have any Experience with any of the rebuild guys? Thanks everyone for all your great posts and help. I live in western MA. Can anyone tell me if there are there any good corvette clubs in our area
Hiram, if it were me I'd go the "belt AND suspenders" approach: re-solder all of the posts AND replace the relay. Now, if you don't have a relay handy, re-solver the joints and plug the BCM back in (but don't bolt it back on), reset the codes and then crank up the engine. If the nasty codes don't reappear, then the re-solder job worked, but if not, then your next bet is to get and install a relay. I wouldn't resort to a rebuilder until I'd done all of the above without success.
Hiram, if it were me I'd go the "belt AND suspenders" approach: re-solder all of the posts AND replace the relay. Now, if you don't have a relay handy, re-solver the joints and plug the BCM back in (but don't bolt it back on), reset the codes and then crank up the engine. If the nasty codes don't reappear, then the re-solder job worked, but if not, then your next bet is to get and install a relay. I wouldn't resort to a rebuilder until I'd done all of the above without success.
I followed your instructions How-To repair EBCM after removing it and taking it apart I examined the soldering points on the resister with a magnifying glass and they all looked fine I re soldered the 5 resister connections anyway in hopes that I just could not see the problem I Reassembled it and tested it before sealing it back up for final installation everything works fine now. Thanks so much for you great info.
I followed your instructions How-To repair EBCM after removing it and taking it apart I examined the soldering points on the resister with a magnifying glass and they all looked fine I re soldered the 5 resister connections anyway in hopes that I just could not see the problem I Reassembled it and tested it before sealing it back up for final installation everything works fine now. Thanks so much for you great info.
You feel just like I did when I followed those same instructions to a successful conclusion. Congratulations.
Well, er, uhmm...it looks like an EBCM box. However, what's inside that box is the key. Is this box for an "early" C5 or "later" C5? And in any event, do the electronics inside that box work? Data on the white label will help you identify which C5 this box fits. But even assuming you have the correct C5 box, nothing other than trial and error will tell you whether (a) the box's electronics even function, and (b) if they do properly function, for how long before the same bugs we've been talking about for years render your box useless.
Sorry for p#ssing in your Cheerios, but....
You may have found an expensive weight for a trot line.
The Lizzard
Last edited by LoneStarLizzard; 04-04-2017 at 03:08 PM.
Huge thanks to the creator of this post. I was able to fix my ebcm at home in less than one day because of this how to. Here are what my posts looked like when I pulled the computer open.
Hello, thank you for the detailed instructions on how to fix the active handling, ABS and tracking issue. It was hard to get the box open once I took the module out of the car. Once open I re-soldered the five spots and the two bars which were cracked and not visible to the naked eye. Installed the module, started the car and all the codes were gone. Worked like a charm. Took two trips and no lights !!! Saved 2K which the dealer quoted !!!! Thank you again !!!
You feel just like I did when I followed those same instructions to a successful conclusion. Congratulations.
Once again, the Forum is a great support for us.
the Lizzard
I also resently re soldered the 6 resisters on the module behind the heat/air controls because the led for the controls we out. They were not even dim. I reinstalled everything and it's as bright as new. Again this forum is the only way I could afford to keep a vet as a toy. Thanks again everyone.
Mark another successful repair here. SUPER happy this thread exist and was able to take care of this issue on my own. I was lucky enough to just have a broken solder connection that was obvious to a blind man once I took it apart. I did the repair and immediately re-sealed the unit to re-install it and it worked like a charm. Thanks again to CF. Alex.
Agreed with motorwiz. It looks like crap but I don't see actual damage. Get some 99% (or whatever) isopropanol and a toothbrush, go to town, get it clean, re-flow the solder joints with your trusty soldering iron and a bit of flux, etc, seal it up, and see if ain't fixed.
Gentlemen, it's really awesome continually seeing you guys fix your EBCM, I mean it certainly puts a smile on my face.
Who knew it was something as "simple" as reflowing a bit of solder? It's also crazy knowing the HVAC resistors require the same resolder technique and bam, two major components fixed in no time.
Keep up gents, continue to spread the word and help other Corvette owners keep their cars safe and on the road.
I recently acquired an EBCM under the pretense that it went "bad" and was replaced. I have a 2000 coupe that I'm gathering parts for a retrofit to the later unit. I figured I would replace the solenoid and check the connections and give it a try. When I opened it up, this is what I found. Has anyone ever seen this before or have any idea why someone would do this? Thanks.
02-25-2017, 04:38 PM
