smithm31

My 01 Vert is giving this Reduced Power read out. I drove the car today for the first time in about a month. I drove about 10 miles to the bank and every thing was fine. When I got back in car it was hard to start and when it did start, all it will do is idle. I waited a couple of minutes and it started up normal and ran good. Got to the drug store and turned it off and it did it again. I again waited a couple of minutes and it was fine again. This time I came home with no problems. Now it is in my garage doing the reduced power thing again and seems this time waiting a couple of minutes is not working, but at least I made it home. I don't want to have it towed to Chevy dealer. Help. The car is an auto with 70,000 miles. Also the gauges seem to be going a little crazy also. It is also saying service traction control and high tire pressure. I checked the pressure and surenuff the tires had about 45 lbs. in them.

tblu92

1st the" service traction control" is usually a wheel speed sensor that has become fouled or unplugged-- Both the ABS and the TC systems use data from the wheel sensors to do their functions The ABS uses it to control skidding wheels and the TC uses it to control spinning wheels-- A TC message will send the ECM into LIMP mode or reduced power--
2nd 45 PSI ??? why so high ?? that thing must ride like a freight train --LOL---45 may be the MAX pressure allowed by the tire company but not the reccomended---I would run them down to 35 PSI--- I think 45 may be the limit of the tire pressure sensors anyway--so anything over that could put in into limp mode as well---( most likely as heat builds up in the tires and the pressure goes up---it goes past 45 PSI )

BigGun

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You need to pull the codes and post them, the complete code including if its history or current.

http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php

And check the battery since it has been sitting a month. How did it get 45 lbs in the tires?

Bill Curlee

45 POUNDS! WOW,, that KIDNEY damage pressure!
I run 28 in the rears and 30 in the fronts (COLD!) and get perfect wear and traction...

As for the reduced power,, read and post ALL the DTCs if there are a TON of DTCs,, CLEAR ALL of them, drive ( or attempt to) the car and see what comes back. Post ALL those DTCs.

Without DTCs, its a long list of "IT COULD BE" this!!

Bill

smithm31

I had oil changed last time I drove it at one of these quick change places and they asked me how much air I wanted in tires. I told them 28 to 30 lbs. I never checked behind them. It is real hot here today and I got her out on the hot highway and a combination of them putting incorrect air pressure and hot road made the pressure go up. Since I have got home I have let the pressure out and have started it 5 or 6 times and it seems ok. The pressure readout is reading zero on the two back tires. I used to know how to pull the codes, but have forgotten. Somebody run me thru it again. I have replaced several wheel speed sensors over the years, so that is really not a big deal if I know which one it is. I am also charging battery although the amp gauge is reading 13.5 volts, but after I start engine, it takes a long time to move over to the 13.5. Is this normal?

87SAM

The link for pulling codes is in post #3. The car has to be moving (to wake the sensors) for the sensors to read pressure.

smithm31

I obtained the following codes.
BO-RFA-U1016H
A6-SCM-U1016H
A1-RDCM-B2283H,B2285H,B2265H,U1064H
99-HVAC-B0338HC
28-TES-C1214H,C1226H,C1278H,U1016H
10-PCM-P0160H,P1518H,P1683H
LDCM-6-B2282H,B2284H,B2262H,B2264H,U1064H,U1016 H
I want to thank everyone for their help in this. I let battery charge and I have started car many times this afternoon and it is doing ok.

KenShores

I know battery voltage can give you fits with these cars. You have a lot of codes there and I'm sure someone with more knowledge than me will get back to you. When I was first reading your post, I was thinking battery voltage. Check connections at the battery also. Good luck.

sunchaser73

Here's info for some those codes:
U1016 - PCM serial fault;
U1064 - loss of comms with the BCM;
B2282/2283 - driver clean battery fault;
B2284/2285 - driver dirty battery fault;
B0338 - inside temperature sensor open;

The "U" codes are indicative of a serial data fault. The most likely cause is the serial data wire that passes through to the doors. It is not properly shielded and can cause a ground. Bill Curlee has a recommended fix for that (liquid electrical tape). He also recommends cleaning ALL of the ground connectors throughout the car.

The "B" codes from the LDCM/RDCM are triggered by battery voltage. If you are having any kind of ground issues and/or fluctuating battery voltages, these codes are likely to come in when the proper conditions are met.

The HVAC code...I've had it come in a few times. I've cleared it and moved on and have had no issues with the climate control system. If you need more info on this particular code, and you don't have access to the service manual, let me know and I'll post the troubleshooting info.

Overall...your list of codes is very, very similar to the list that I had last summer. Grounds are the most likely cause for them. Also, check your IGN1 fuse (#47). Pull it and inspect the blades for any indications of intermittent contact. Check the fuse terminals for tightness and adjust them as necessary. I had all kinds of problems last summer because of that fuse. I spent alot of time reading, researching and troubleshooting only to find that the root cause of my problems was a $3.30 fuse. Learned alot in the process though (many thanks to Bill Curlee).

Hope this helps...let us know how things turn out.

Bill Curlee

Just clear ALL of those codes and see if any return. Post those that return.

sunchaser73

I need to clear up some misinformation that I started. The bare wire in the door harness is a speaker shield wire and most likely has little or nothing to do with the Comms Issue and all the stuff caused by the door harness. The real culprit had everything to do with a POOR connection inside the door harness power connector:



The bent female pin needs to be straightened.

As for the U series DTCs, they can be caused by several things. One of the main causes is low system voltages. Another is a defective module or poor serial data bus connections.


I would charge the battery, clear the DTCs and monitor.

smithm31

I attempted to clear codes. I drove car about 10 miles and it did fine. I came back home and checked codes again and this is what I had.
99HVAC- B0338HC
AD-LDCM-B2282,B2284H,B2262H,B2264H,U1064H,U1016H
A1-RDCM - B2283H,B2285H,B2265H,U1064H,U1016H
A6-SCM-U1016H,BO-RFA-U1016H
I don't know anything about this code thing. I know when I went to crank car it almost didn't crank. The solonoid actually clicked one time and then it caught and spun over enought to start. After I charged battery it has been fine. Ya'll tell me again what I need to check tomorrow and thank ya'll so much. Mike

Bill Curlee

Sounds like you have a battery or battery power issue due to poor battery cable connections.

Remove the battery and have it fully tested at the autoparts store. When you reinstall the battery clean the connections and TORQUE the battery cable bolts to 11 ft/lbs (97-03 C5)

Bill