R6cowboy

I'm looking for info on how to lower a C5 by adjusting the stock bolts. I hear this can be done and there are write-ups about it, but where? Post any known directions please!

BigGun

In the DYI sticky at the top of this page, post #50.

R6cowboy

Thanks
Why is it every other time you search through the DYI section you see everything and the kitchen sink except for what you're looking for?

Kudos to BigGun

GoBallsDeep!

^ I noticed that too until I searched "Thread titles only"

R6cowboy

Yeah, I also searched lowering C5 using the search function and it came up with a boatload of threads that had nothing to do with lowering a C5. Heck, idk (shrugs)

Solofast

Here is the way to do it right. There are a lot of threads on doing it and most of them will have you screwing up the setup of the car.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1576940245-post106.html

R6cowboy

Thanks

and good write-up Solofast

UniqueDoug

I think I've broken most of your rules. But I did re-install the stock bolts in the front after I cut the bushing so at least my spring is not right on the lower A.

Luckily our roads are nice here in O-town and I don't race or corner fast on the roads. And hopefully I don't wreck my "pride and joy" due to your over-steer theory. I've had 4 C5's lowered as such and never noticed this dangerous over-steer you note (not saying it does not exist).

lionelhutz

One of the main things to keep in mind is to maintain any side to side imbalance or difference in the boltse. Hopefully, that will keep the car level and fairly evenly balanced. You should also consider an alignment to avoid premature tire wear.

I pulled the rear bolts and dropped the car onto the suspension to see the rear travel. A stock C5 is on the rear bump stop when the tread of the wheel is at most 1/4" up inside the wheel well. I haven't checked the front because that would require pulling the spring, but maybe some day I will. I expect it to have more travel than the rear but not a huge amount more. Just something to think about if you over lower it and then think wow the ride is so much better because it's more firm - it's really the bumpstops.

Peter

BTAL

Solofast, do you have the balance/weights for the best setup? I am fortunate to have access to 4 wheel racing scales so can tweak accordingly. Also, suggestions on the adjustments to shift weight from side to side and/or front to rear.

Thanks.

UniqueDoug

Interesting because others have said that it is on the bumpstops well before this point.

lionelhutz

Nope, you can just slightly tuck the wheels. However, if you believe that having 3/4" of travel works then you're a dreamer. I have about 2" and I use it all just driving on the street.

Peter

Solofast

What you are looking for is equal cross weights. That is, the LF + the RR is equal to the RF + the LR. If you have a set of scales the easiest way to get it right quickly is to lower the front in equal turn increments and do the same in the rear, insuring that you have about a 4.5" or greater ride height in the front and 1/2 inch higher in the back. Drive the car around the block and jink it side to side to help get it settled. If you turn the front bolts in equal increments it will settle out right away.

Put the car on the scales with the front sway bar disconnected. Adjust the rear bolts in small increments to get the corner weights equal. If the weights are way off lower the high rear corner and raise the lower one. It shouldn't take much to dial it in. When you get within 20 pounds of cross weight just tweak one of the rear bolts.

Put an adjustabe end link on one side of the front sway bar and reattach the end link so that the bolts slip in and there is no preload on the sway bar.