Bill Curlee

SEAT CONTROL MODULE (LEFT) Someting in the seat is always ON. Multifunction switch, bladder motor , motor for a seat function,,, etc....


Thats your MAJOR drain. Something is wrong with the right door modue or a function of the door is always trying to work.

BC

buckg2

So the drain that the seat is using is OK? With the #4 fuse in I can hear a cliking under the seat each time i plug and unplug the connector, nothing is running, just sounds like a relay starting up. Why would you think the problem is in the door???

lucky131969

No. Bill is trying to tell you, that it is probably the source of your problem................and it's a common issue. Unplug the seat, close up the car, and let the BCM go into sleep mode....and see what current reading you get.

Bill Curlee

I wanted to say Seat Module. If theres an active relay in the seat when you plug it in,,,,, theres a PROBLEM!!

BC

buckg2

I let it go into sleep mode with the seat connecter unpluged and the draw dropped to .05 which I'm guessing is just fine. So now I just have to diesect the seat.

Bill Curlee

.05 is a LOT more inspec than .80 BUT,,,,, you should be closer to .02. Once you get the seat fixed,, you can do some more isolating for the remainder of the excessive draw.

BC

wbhaynes

My battery also kept going dead. I also noticed when I went to charge my new battery that clicking sound you mentioned. As the battery charged the clicking stopped. So I disconnected the negative side of the battery and charged it with two amps 12V. This allowed the clicking sound to continue endlessly so I could find it. After tracing the sound I realized both headlight motors we gently trying to turn. That is the noise and thats also what is running down the battery. On my 99 I can pull out fuses 3 & 4 and the sound also immediately stops. If someone knows what is causing this I think my dead battery problems might go away.

Bill Curlee

That theory may not be correct Your head light motors are controlled by the head light module. That module has a CURRENT SENSING circuit that turns off the output of the module when the light contacts the stops (up or down)

When the battery is basically dead and your charging it, you should remove it form the circuit and charge it.

HOWEVER,,, If the module is defective,, it has been known to cause a high current draw. The back of the module can delaminate and get water in it.

Charge the battery and reconnect the battery and you head light should erect (up or down ) where ever its sitting and after a second or so, that module should drop off that current.

BC

B747VET

Since much of this centers on batteries...

I am certainly no expert on these things, but I do subscribe to the following recommendations for C5 batteries. Before trouble shooting electrical and battery related issues I always like to first check that the correct battery is in the car in question.


Paul Koerner Carlisle Seminars on C5 Column Lock Issues, Electrical Issues and the Right C5 Battery

AC Delco Professional 78-6YR 700 CCA 120 RC (Part Number 19001632)
Note: 2004 C5 needs 86-6YR 700 CCA 120 RC

Annual test should yield minimum 12.5 volts and 500 CCA … this test is CRITICAL for C5 Vettes and avoiding column lock issues and other electrical problems.


Certainly there are other good batteries out there but this one flat out works for the C5. I surmise that it is critical to get at least the 700 CCA and 120 RC numbers no matter which battery make is chosen and then do the annual test as others have recommended. Starting the car is only one aspect of modern battery technology and these complex modern electrical systems.

Bill Curlee

Paul is CORRECT and for optimum electrical performance, that exact battery spec should be installed. IF,, you have a battery that has lesser specs but is still in good working condition, you can still use it.

Just be aware that it may not allow the car to sit idle the same period of time as the specified battery but for a car thats driven at least every other week or so, you would be fine.

BC

dtile

Thanks for this info Bill and others...have same issue and pulled fuse 4 and millaaamps at .20...link to purchase the relays
wow, expensive....http://www.trademotion.com/parts/200...=POWER%20SEATS

I had seat apart last year and believe just 4 bolts to take seats out.
Again, thanks...