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Old 08-04-2011, 09:52 PM   #1
reactor2
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Default Fuel Pump - Quick Disconnect - HELP

I'm attempting to replace the fuel pump on my 98 and for the past couple hours I've been trying to remove the "quick" disconnect lines. I've bought every "quick" disconnect tool I can find and they don't work.

I need a quick disconnect tool that actually works. Money is literally no object as long as actually works.

What do you guys have that works and where did you get it? I've bought every tool at AutoZone, NAPA, and O'Reilly.....all worthless.

Yes, I know what I'm doing..I've done my heads/cam/intake/exhaust/rearend/converter/NOS/supercharger, etc. etc.
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:02 PM   #2
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Sometimes they just get stuck. I shot mine with WD40 and all of a sudden the Autozone tool worked just like it was supposed to.
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:03 PM   #3
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Wow...I have the cheapest tool from Advanced auto and it worked fine.....although it was a pain in the *** to get on the top one...
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:22 PM   #4
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Crap not sure what to do aside from cutting them off and replacing all the lines...I'd do that if I thought I would be successful.

I've tried everything. They will not budge.

Any high-buck tools (money in no object) that is guaranteed to work?
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reactor2 View Post
Crap not sure what to do aside from cutting them off and replacing all the lines...I'd do that if I thought I would be successful.

I've tried everything. They will not budge.

Any high-buck tools (money in no object) that is guaranteed to work?
Maybe you should just pay someone for the job before you start cutting up your car.
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:45 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigGun View Post
Maybe you should just pay someone for the job before you start cutting up your car.
.....No $hit.......
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:58 PM   #7
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Unlike 99.9% of corvette owners I do my own work.

I'm obviously not doing anything wrong...it's the tool. If someone at a shop can get it off it not the technique, it's the tool.

What I need to know is what tool the professionals use and where to get it.

Can any mechanics chime in? Id much appreciate it.
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Old 08-05-2011, 06:33 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reactor2 View Post
I'm obviously not doing anything wrong...it's the tool.
You just keep telling yourself that......

Last edited by lucky131969; 08-05-2011 at 07:03 AM.
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Old 08-05-2011, 07:08 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reactor2 View Post
Unlike 99.9% of corvette owners I do my own work.

I'm obviously not doing anything wrong...it's the tool. If someone at a shop can get it off it not the technique, it's the tool.

What I need to know is what tool the professionals use and where to get it.

Can any mechanics chime in? Id much appreciate it.
Honestly I really had to work to get it to work on mine its just a real PITFA sometimes.
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Old 08-05-2011, 09:20 AM   #10
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I know this is probably a dumb question... but are you sure you're using the tool properly? Kinda hard to describe, see the video below.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKgQJ-RinXc

I used the $7 fuel line disconnect tool with four sizes on it from advance auto parts when I replaced my fuel filter last month and it popped right off... What size disconnect tool are you using? Make sure it fits snugly around the line then slide the protruding side of the tool into the fitting and grab the line and push it toward the tool at the same time and it'll come off. You might have to wiggle it a some, but it'll pop off eventually. Hard to explain... I put a link to a video of it above.

I don't know of any "special high end" tool that works better than others. There are some that are designed for tight spaces/clearances, but you could probably disconnect a fuel line with a couple of screwdrivers if you have the patience... If you're dead set on having "the best" and most expensive tool go with snap-on. There's really nothing special about a quick-disconnect tool though... http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

Last edited by cdkcorvette7; 08-05-2011 at 09:36 AM.
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Old 08-05-2011, 11:47 AM   #11
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I think I have the technique down. I was actually able to remove the smaller line (5/16) but no luck with the other two. I picked up 4 additional quick disconnect tools this morning. If those don't work I'll order the snap on tool you mentioned. If that doesn't work I'll throw the BAP on and hope it can meet the demands of the engine.

I've done a truck load of work on this car and the only connectors to give me any grief whatsoever have been these "quick" connect lines.

I guess if I can't get the lines off and the BAP doesn't work out I'll sell the car for parts.
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Old 08-05-2011, 11:50 AM   #12
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I second cdkcorvette7's advice. Unless you have damaged the internal clip already the thing will release if you do enough fiddling. Tool isn't the problem. If you don't have three hands, get a friend to work the lines while you apply the tool, him pushing/pulling (GENTLY) on the lines while you push the tool towards the release. Keep at it and you will get there, unless, as I said, some damage has been done by you or someone previous
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Old 08-05-2011, 11:56 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pewter99 View Post
Honestly I really had to work to get it to work on mine its just a real PITFA sometimes.
That is crazy. If I were a mechanic I would only accept work dealing with these type of connectors as a hourly rate type of job. I'm more than 3 hours into this job and all I've managed to do is remove one of the lines.

I have to believe there is a tool out there that actually works. At this point I'd honestly pay $500 for a tool that works. I already own 8 different tools (>$100 invested) and so far they are all garbage. Granted they are all auto store quality tools, I haven't tried snapon or anything yet.

Id like to personally "thank" the penny-pinching moron that decided to utilize these garbage connector type on the vette.
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Old 08-05-2011, 01:30 PM   #14
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Its 100% technique. I have some cheap-as-fark tool from Autozone. Like you, I struggled for hours until I got the technique down. Its been described above.
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Old 08-05-2011, 01:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reactor2 View Post
I think I have the technique down. I was actually able to remove the smaller line (5/16) but no luck with the other two. I picked up 4 additional quick disconnect tools this morning. If those don't work I'll order the snap on tool you mentioned. If that doesn't work I'll throw the BAP on and hope it can meet the demands of the engine.

I've done a truck load of work on this car and the only connectors to give me any grief whatsoever have been these "quick" connect lines.

I guess if I can't get the lines off and the BAP doesn't work out I'll sell the car for parts.
That should tell you that the tool WORKS!

Quote:
Originally Posted by reactor2 View Post
That is crazy. If I were a mechanic I would only accept work dealing with these type of connectors as a hourly rate type of job. I'm more than 3 hours into this job and all I've managed to do is remove one of the lines.

I have to believe there is a tool out there that actually works. At this point I'd honestly pay $500 for a tool that works. I already own 8 different tools (>$100 invested) and so far they are all garbage. Granted they are all auto store quality tools, I haven't tried snapon or anything yet.

Id like to personally "thank" the penny-pinching moron that decided to utilize these garbage connector type on the vette.


ALL OF THE TOOLS ARE THE SAME. Seriously. Find a picture of an expensive set then find a picture of a cheap set and compare them. They will look EXACTLY alike. There are two styles I've seen. The individually sized disconnect tools and the scissors style with four sizes on them. No offense meant here, we all know these things can be a PITA, but it is NOT the tool. It's either your technique or the fitting is damaged (as another poster mentioned above).

Try this. I'm assuming you've already relieved your fuel pressure via the schraeder valve on the fuel rail, but if you haven't DO THAT FIRST. Get under your hood and disconnect the fuel line that feeds into the fuel rail on the drivers side of the block. It's extremely easy to get to. It will prove to you that the tool you have works (assuming you are using the right size) and will assist you in getting the technique down when you're not doubling as a contortionist to get to the thing as you are with the fuel pump.

Just play with it some; I guarantee you it is NOT the tool. If you were a mechanic you would do this all the time and would have no problem disconnecting a fuel line. You are an at-home diyer (as most of us on here are) and as such it takes a little more time to get some things done... I've disconnected fuel and AC lines (same fittings) multiple times with VERY cheap tools. Sometimes they came off the second I inserted the tool into the fitting other times I had to F**K around with it for a while before it popped loose.

I'm not advocating cheap tools; I typically buy very high quality as I consider tools to be a long-term investment... But in this case it really doesn't matter. All quick disconnect tools I have seen are pretty much alike. I think I read a thread one time where a guy trimmed the plastic foot cover off of a folder chair to make a quick disconnect tool. In the end; all you need is something that will depress the spring-loaded clips on the inside of the beveled part of the fitting to release the tension off of the smaller insert so you can remove it...

Last edited by cdkcorvette7; 08-05-2011 at 02:04 PM.
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Old 08-05-2011, 02:21 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdkcorvette7 View Post
That should tell you that the tool WORKS!





ALL OF THE TOOLS ARE THE SAME. Seriously. Find a picture of an expensive set then find a picture of a cheap set and compare them. They will look EXACTLY alike. There are two styles I've seen. The individually sized disconnect tools and the scissors style with four sizes on them. No offense meant here, we all know these things can be a PITA, but it is NOT the tool. It's either your technique or the fitting is damaged (as another poster mentioned above).

Try this. I'm assuming you've already relieved your fuel pressure via the schraeder valve on the fuel rail, but if you haven't DO THAT FIRST. Get under your hood and disconnect the fuel line that feeds into the fuel rail on the drivers side of the block. It's extremely easy to get to. It will prove to you that the tool you have works (assuming you are using the right size) and will assist you in getting the technique down when you're not doubling as a contortionist to get to the thing as you are with the fuel pump.

Just play with it some; I guarantee you it is NOT the tool. If you were a mechanic you would do this all the time and would have no problem disconnecting a fuel line. You are an at-home diyer (as most of us on here are) and as such it takes a little more time to get some things done... I've disconnected fuel and AC lines (same fittings) multiple times with VERY cheap tools. Sometimes they come off the second I inserted the tool into the fitting other times I had to F**K around with it for a while before it popped loose.

I'm not advocating cheap tools; I typically buy very high quality as I consider tools to be a long-term investment... But in this case it really doesn't matter. All quick disconnect tools I have seen are pretty much alike. I think I read a thread one time where a guy trimmed the plastic foot cover off of a folder chair to make a quick disconnect tool. In the end; all you need is something that will depress the spring-loaded clips on the inside of the beveled part of the fitting to release the tension off of the smaller insert so you can remove it...
Good advice.

Pretty sure only the '97s and '98s had this style QD fitting at the fuel tank(s). Corrosion/rust, etc

Beginning with the re-design of the fuel system in '99, these QD fittings have the plastic squeeze-type fittings that pop right off.

Worst case scenario: Aeromotive (maybe some others too) makes a squeeze-type-to-AN adapter fitting to fit the tank nipple but then you'll have to make up your own fuel lines on those two fuel lines as well.

Keep at it. Patience.
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Old 08-05-2011, 02:57 PM   #17
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Quote:
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:Pretty sure only the '97s and '98s had this style QD fitting at the fuel tank(s). Corrosion/rust, etc
Hadn't thought about that... If it's rusted really bad hit it with a little PB blaster and let it penetrate for a few hours then try again.
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Old 08-05-2011, 03:07 PM   #18
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Pics of early C5 design. Think you have corrosion/stuck fitting problems? Take a look at nitrojunk's problem! "Corrosion City"!!!

Those fuel line insulators and rubber caps are perfect sponges for capturing water/road-salt, etc.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 08-05-2011, 03:09 PM   #19
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Holy Chit! Makes me glad I have an 01...
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Old 08-05-2011, 11:45 PM   #20
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Without a shadow of a doubt it is definitely the tool. I know this because I had wrestled with it for 3 hours minimu
With no luck. I was able to get the 5/16 line of no problem but the 3/8 lines would not move. I bought every 3/8 tool at napa this morning, including a nice anodized piece. When I got home I tried the anodized one first...within 10 seconds tops I was able to remove both remaining lines.... They just popped right off. It's definitely the tool and NOT the technique.

From all my previous wrenching on one of the lines I damaged the metal clip on one of the lines. Where can I pick one of those up? Autozone and o'reilly don't have it.
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