PHASTC5

Last post was back in June ("towed home again"). Thanks to everyones help I checked all grounds, and ended up replacing a crank sensor. After three broken exhaust studs the car runs fine.
I have always run an Optima Battery but during the crank sensor project I noticed when reconnecting the negative cable I heard a relay clicking under the right front headlight. Further testing showed a 1.50 AMP draw on the battery with ignition off. Can anyone help me on this one as I know low voltage will create many issues. I also need to know a temperature that the cooling fan should come on at. I have run the car without the AC on and at idle it will get to 220-225 degrees with NO cooling fan. As soon as I turn on the AC it comes on, and cools down to 195-200 degree.
Thanks for any help

Bill Curlee

It takes 10-12 minutes for the BCM to shed loads and drop down to the finial sleep current draw. Its very normal for the battery to pull a large spark when the connection is made. Your turning on a bunck of lighting, arming the headligh motors so that they stay DOWN with force and the BCm is in the power on mode. Ive see some cars pull approx 8 amps on the initial connection and then drop down to the 1.XX amp that you are seeing.

BC

PHASTC5

This forum is great! I will be buying a "battery tender" instead of the solar charger I had been using. The solar only charged 1.5 amps, so it really wasn't enough.
As for my car dieing two times and leaving me in wait for a tow, I am still hoping the crank sensor solved the problem. I've yet to take the car for a drive knowing I only have one more AAA tow to get me back home. I do know it stays running in my drive for 30 minutes now without dieing. Gotta hate intermitent electircal problems.