C5 Clutch replacement
#21
#24
Clutch Question
I just purchased a 2004 Z06 with 20k miles. It is completely unmolested. I did two track days with it last weekend and Texas World. Twice, at the same corner, the clutch pedal stayed down and I couldn't get it into gear until I was able to pull the clutch pedal up and pump it a couple of times. The downshift point is under heavy braking from 6000 rpm in 4th down to third at about 4000 rpm in 3rd. One gentleman thinks I need a new clutch. I am just looking for second opinions. I plan to change the clutch fluid tomorrow but I hate to go back to the track in 3 weeks only to have my clutch fail. I would just change it if you guys experience dictates replacement.
July 19 at Texas World
July 19 at Texas World
#25
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
A completely stock OEM C5 ZO6 should be happy ALL day with the OEM clutch. That being said,, If it were ME, and knowing what I know now,, I would install a NEW OEM Master cylinder and completely flush and bleed the master /slave.
I had a similar issue after I bumped up the HP from 390 RWHP to 450 RWHP. I was SURE that the pressure plate and disk was trash. It only had (50K miles) but, they were hard miles. I like to play!
NOPE! They actually looked really good. No hot spots on the flywheel, disk was still good and pressure plate looked normal.
HOWEVER,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I took the old master cylinder apart and HOLY CRAP! It was full of old clutch dust slime and nasty crap. A LOT MORE debris than I thought was possible inside a clutch master cyl. Possibly the entire reason that I had a stuck peddle under full throttle.
I installed a SPEC Duel disk clutch, TICK Master, OEM slave, OEM throwout bearing and remote bleeder line to replace the OEM clutch and clutch parts. $$$$$$$$ but worth it.
SO,, on the cheep, change the master cylinder first. Its easy and only 50-60 bucks. May save you from doing anything else.
Bill
I had a similar issue after I bumped up the HP from 390 RWHP to 450 RWHP. I was SURE that the pressure plate and disk was trash. It only had (50K miles) but, they were hard miles. I like to play!
NOPE! They actually looked really good. No hot spots on the flywheel, disk was still good and pressure plate looked normal.
HOWEVER,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I took the old master cylinder apart and HOLY CRAP! It was full of old clutch dust slime and nasty crap. A LOT MORE debris than I thought was possible inside a clutch master cyl. Possibly the entire reason that I had a stuck peddle under full throttle.
I installed a SPEC Duel disk clutch, TICK Master, OEM slave, OEM throwout bearing and remote bleeder line to replace the OEM clutch and clutch parts. $$$$$$$$ but worth it.
SO,, on the cheep, change the master cylinder first. Its easy and only 50-60 bucks. May save you from doing anything else.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 07-23-2015 at 03:58 PM.
#26
Race Director
I just purchased a 2004 Z06 with 20k miles. It is completely unmolested. I did two track days with it last weekend and Texas World. Twice, at the same corner, the clutch pedal stayed down and I couldn't get it into gear until I was able to pull the clutch pedal up and pump it a couple of times. The downshift point is under heavy braking from 6000 rpm in 4th down to third at about 4000 rpm in 3rd. One gentleman thinks I need a new clutch. I am just looking for second opinions. I plan to change the clutch fluid tomorrow but I hate to go back to the track in 3 weeks only to have my clutch fail. I would just change it if you guys experience dictates replacement.
July 19 at Texas World
July 19 at Texas World