Texas Speed 224r Cam question
12-01-2011, 02:37 PM
#21
Le Mans Master
I know you said that you measured the pushrod length, but if you're using stock heads (unmilled) and stock gaskets - there's no way that the right size pushrod is shorter than stock. In order to get that level of lift, the cam grinder has to make a smaller base circle cam. For me the difference between the stock cam and the Comp cam was 0.102" for base circle diameter. Divide that by 2 and I should be running an extra 0.050" pushrod over factory 7.400". I had already purchased 7.425" and that's what I'm going with.
That said - my car isn't back together yet.
That said - my car isn't back together yet.
12-01-2011, 05:27 PM
#22
11-29-2015, 08:41 AM
#24
Racer
This seems to be common with Texas Speed 224 and 228 cams; as someone else eluded to it's not the lift but the open and close rates off of the seat. It's well documented that these cams will give you a sewing machine sound, with the solution being either less lash or more noise (headers) to cover the ticking sound. Neither were a great solution to me. I went with an EPS cam. It's amazing. Research this as anything else you can do at this point with the cam that's in there is a bandaid, it's pretty well documented here as well as on the LS1 and GTO forums.
Kurt
Kurt
11-29-2015, 09:47 AM
#25
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2014
Location: The Lowcountry South Carolina
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This seems to be common with Texas Speed 224 and 228 cams; as someone else eluded to it's not the lift but the open and close rates off of the seat. It's well documented that these cams will give you a sewing machine sound, with the solution being either less lash or more noise (headers) to cover the ticking sound. Neither were a great solution to me. I went with an EPS cam. It's amazing. Research this as anything else you can do at this point with the cam that's in there is a bandaid, it's pretty well documented here as well as on the LS1 and GTO forums.
Kurt
Kurt
