Seafoam treatment question
11-24-2011, 09:35 PM
#1
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Seafoam treatment question
Worth it or not? I've been thinking of performing the seafoam treatment on my 2000 C5. I purchased it in August and it currently has 42,000 miles on it and runs good. Just wondering what you guys think?
11-24-2011, 10:05 PM
#2
Racer
My 2002 Coupe just rolled over 30k and I put a can in my gas tank about 2k miles ago and I didn't notice a power increase but it does idle smoother now. But if you use techron on a regular basis you should be OK and get the same results.
11-25-2011, 02:16 PM
#3
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What about the full seafoam treatment? Like the one shown here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztfAGWxGhEY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztfAGWxGhEY
11-25-2011, 02:32 PM
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
What about the full seafoam treatment? Like the one shown here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztfAGWxGhEY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztfAGWxGhEY
Big risk of doing damage!! 
11-26-2011, 08:32 AM
#5
Race Director
SeaFoam is a good product. I add it to my gas at least once a year to clean my fuel system and a second time as a fuel stabilizer for winter storage.
Seafoam when added thru the brake booster or PCV line decarbonizes the upper cylinders, and piston heads.
I did it at least once a year until I added an oil catch can at 100 K miles.
LSx engines are notorious for oil misting in the rocker train. that oil mist gets carried through the intake and forms carbon deposits in the cylinders.
the treatment shown is how you can decarbonize your engine.
You should not have a problem with such low mileage, if you have been using a top tier gasoline, but if you have been buying cut rate/no name gas which generally only have the minimum detergency mandated by Federal law, you could have a problem.
Follow the directions closely and you will not hurt anything.
There is a chance of hydrolocking your engine if you pour the whole can in, in one fast motion.
If you are concerned, you can avoid that possibility entirely. There is an aerosol version that you can spray directly into the intake.
Seafoam when added thru the brake booster or PCV line decarbonizes the upper cylinders, and piston heads.
I did it at least once a year until I added an oil catch can at 100 K miles.
LSx engines are notorious for oil misting in the rocker train. that oil mist gets carried through the intake and forms carbon deposits in the cylinders.
the treatment shown is how you can decarbonize your engine.
You should not have a problem with such low mileage, if you have been using a top tier gasoline, but if you have been buying cut rate/no name gas which generally only have the minimum detergency mandated by Federal law, you could have a problem.
Follow the directions closely and you will not hurt anything.
There is a chance of hydrolocking your engine if you pour the whole can in, in one fast motion.
If you are concerned, you can avoid that possibility entirely. There is an aerosol version that you can spray directly into the intake.
11-26-2011, 11:26 AM
#6
I use SeaFoam for upper induction cleaning on cars all the time.....just need to use it properly. Here is some info on understanding why we need it and how to prevent evr needing it:
Understanding the need for
a proper PCV oil separating catchcan
Any engine driven hard will ingest a certain amount of oil into the intake air system resulting in loss of power, detonation, and long term carbon buildup on the pistons & valves reducing the velocity and flow through the engine.
Preventing this on a street driven car subject to emissions requires some simple modifications to the closed OEM PCV system.
On all out race applications where emission rules do not apply, this is accomplished in different ways, but proper crankcase ventilation is a must! The crankcase gets filled with harmful combustion byproducts that if not evacuated will cause internal damage to your engine and shorten the usable life. These byproducts include: Sulfuric acids, abrasive carbon particles, unburnt fuel, water, and more. If you do not have a proper crankcase evacuation system these compounds will condense inside the engine and mix with the oil as well as begin corroding internal parts. It is NOT enough to just vent the crankcase pressure through a breather, but it must be flushed with a filtered fresh air source to carry these out & away. In an OEM system, these are burnt in the combustion chamber & further in the catalytic converters.
In an off-road or race application, the engine is normally not used to burn them off.
At the very least drag only motors have a scavenge evac system in the header collectors to pull vac, and anyone that's serious has a belt driven vac pump.....especially the Alky motors due to the amount of moisture the alcohol introduces to the crankcase.
*
Want to see whats in your oil? A simple oil analysis will show you how much harmful stuff ends up in it.
The oil analysis will show the acid build up....and no, it takes a year or two before you would see any substantial damage to your internal engine parts.....but an easy way is after 6 months or so of running like you describe pull a valve cover and look and the corrosion from the vapors on your rocker arms. This is the first place it is visible.
Bottom line is, w/out a proper evac system you WILL sustain long term engine damage. It may take a few years to notice, but I build motors 6 days a week when not racing and see the results first hand.
There are several other ways for oil mist to enter the intake manifold, the PCV system is the most common with the fresh air make up source (the fitting on the top rear of your throttle body) being the second most common. To eliminate that you need to cap the TB fitting and run a valve cover breather (installed as far from the crankcase vent as possible...ideally you want to pull filtered fresh air in one valve cover & evac it out the other or the LS6/LS2 style valley cover is second best) Then if it is excess crankcase pressure pushing oil vapor/mist out faster than the PCV can evac it you will see it pushed back through the line from the pass valve cover front to the TB and it is ingested from there. Want to see whats in your intake manifold? Simply remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the TB to the intake manifold. Take a white paper towel and reach into the intake manifold snout, rub it around, and pull it out. V6 LLT owners...just inside the intake opening you will see a deep collection well that accumulates oil. The 3rd point of ingestion is from reversion. This of course needs at least one piston/ring/bore/valveguide or seal issue that is allowing oil to be pulled into that one or more intake port and at high RPM's the reversion pulse will "push" that oil throughout the entire intake manifold. It will appear to have entered from the vac fitting that the PCV system uses but is really from one of the cylinders (reversion is a whole different process that is not widely understood but do a Google search and you can actually find some super high speed video of engines on dyno's where at high RPM's...9-10-12K plus the reversion cloud of A/F mixture is actually rising out of the intake runners or carb on a non fuel injected motor). To test for that just place a clean clear fuel filter inline between the catch can outlet and the vac fitting. If it gets oil on the can side, oil is coming through the can. If it first appears on the intake vacuum side, then it is reversion so you have a deeper issue.
*
Having engine smoke or excess crankcase pressure? There may be a deeper issue. On the LS motors we pull apart it is usually # 7 ringland broken between the compression & middle ring, or the land itself broke off at the top. We also find the top ringland pinched or crushed down on the top ring (comp. ring) and metal transfer along the piston side has caused the oil & scraper ring to stick allowing oil & blow-by. Also, try this: at idle (vac is at it's greatest when at idle or when the throttle blade closes from high RPM's) remove the oil fill cap and hold your hand over it. Does it pull a slight suction? If so, all is good with most of the system and I doubt you have a damaged piston/ring/bore. But if there is ANY pressure pushing back you have a deeper issue and that is the cause of the oil problem.
Now on big cam/stroker builds a can inline on the dirty side, and a can inline from the fresh air source may be needed (the bigger the bore & longer the stroke, the more crankcase pressure is built up) If it is forced induction, then you have a whole new process to deal with......and that is the PCV system works properly when at idle & non-boost, but when you start making boost you have switched from the intake manifold being negative atmosphere to a pressurized component and the PCV system is rendered useless and pressure escapes wherever it can. The solution then is to have one way check valves inline so the vacuum need for proper evacuation comes from in front of the compressor (head unit) through a line run to the air filter.
This is getting a bit long and I hope all can follow this, but if not ask me specific questions for clarification so this helps all. I'll go over every type of solution and the pros & cons of each....and remember, this problem is NOT just in the GM LS based engines, but is an issue with ALL modern closed systems. We just tear into our cars where as the Mercedes or Lincoln owner never even realizes there is an issue.
Understanding the need for
a proper PCV oil separating catchcan
Any engine driven hard will ingest a certain amount of oil into the intake air system resulting in loss of power, detonation, and long term carbon buildup on the pistons & valves reducing the velocity and flow through the engine.
Preventing this on a street driven car subject to emissions requires some simple modifications to the closed OEM PCV system.
On all out race applications where emission rules do not apply, this is accomplished in different ways, but proper crankcase ventilation is a must! The crankcase gets filled with harmful combustion byproducts that if not evacuated will cause internal damage to your engine and shorten the usable life. These byproducts include: Sulfuric acids, abrasive carbon particles, unburnt fuel, water, and more. If you do not have a proper crankcase evacuation system these compounds will condense inside the engine and mix with the oil as well as begin corroding internal parts. It is NOT enough to just vent the crankcase pressure through a breather, but it must be flushed with a filtered fresh air source to carry these out & away. In an OEM system, these are burnt in the combustion chamber & further in the catalytic converters.
In an off-road or race application, the engine is normally not used to burn them off.
At the very least drag only motors have a scavenge evac system in the header collectors to pull vac, and anyone that's serious has a belt driven vac pump.....especially the Alky motors due to the amount of moisture the alcohol introduces to the crankcase.
*
Want to see whats in your oil? A simple oil analysis will show you how much harmful stuff ends up in it.
The oil analysis will show the acid build up....and no, it takes a year or two before you would see any substantial damage to your internal engine parts.....but an easy way is after 6 months or so of running like you describe pull a valve cover and look and the corrosion from the vapors on your rocker arms. This is the first place it is visible.
Bottom line is, w/out a proper evac system you WILL sustain long term engine damage. It may take a few years to notice, but I build motors 6 days a week when not racing and see the results first hand.
There are several other ways for oil mist to enter the intake manifold, the PCV system is the most common with the fresh air make up source (the fitting on the top rear of your throttle body) being the second most common. To eliminate that you need to cap the TB fitting and run a valve cover breather (installed as far from the crankcase vent as possible...ideally you want to pull filtered fresh air in one valve cover & evac it out the other or the LS6/LS2 style valley cover is second best) Then if it is excess crankcase pressure pushing oil vapor/mist out faster than the PCV can evac it you will see it pushed back through the line from the pass valve cover front to the TB and it is ingested from there. Want to see whats in your intake manifold? Simply remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the TB to the intake manifold. Take a white paper towel and reach into the intake manifold snout, rub it around, and pull it out. V6 LLT owners...just inside the intake opening you will see a deep collection well that accumulates oil. The 3rd point of ingestion is from reversion. This of course needs at least one piston/ring/bore/valveguide or seal issue that is allowing oil to be pulled into that one or more intake port and at high RPM's the reversion pulse will "push" that oil throughout the entire intake manifold. It will appear to have entered from the vac fitting that the PCV system uses but is really from one of the cylinders (reversion is a whole different process that is not widely understood but do a Google search and you can actually find some super high speed video of engines on dyno's where at high RPM's...9-10-12K plus the reversion cloud of A/F mixture is actually rising out of the intake runners or carb on a non fuel injected motor). To test for that just place a clean clear fuel filter inline between the catch can outlet and the vac fitting. If it gets oil on the can side, oil is coming through the can. If it first appears on the intake vacuum side, then it is reversion so you have a deeper issue.
*
Having engine smoke or excess crankcase pressure? There may be a deeper issue. On the LS motors we pull apart it is usually # 7 ringland broken between the compression & middle ring, or the land itself broke off at the top. We also find the top ringland pinched or crushed down on the top ring (comp. ring) and metal transfer along the piston side has caused the oil & scraper ring to stick allowing oil & blow-by. Also, try this: at idle (vac is at it's greatest when at idle or when the throttle blade closes from high RPM's) remove the oil fill cap and hold your hand over it. Does it pull a slight suction? If so, all is good with most of the system and I doubt you have a damaged piston/ring/bore. But if there is ANY pressure pushing back you have a deeper issue and that is the cause of the oil problem.
Now on big cam/stroker builds a can inline on the dirty side, and a can inline from the fresh air source may be needed (the bigger the bore & longer the stroke, the more crankcase pressure is built up) If it is forced induction, then you have a whole new process to deal with......and that is the PCV system works properly when at idle & non-boost, but when you start making boost you have switched from the intake manifold being negative atmosphere to a pressurized component and the PCV system is rendered useless and pressure escapes wherever it can. The solution then is to have one way check valves inline so the vacuum need for proper evacuation comes from in front of the compressor (head unit) through a line run to the air filter.
This is getting a bit long and I hope all can follow this, but if not ask me specific questions for clarification so this helps all. I'll go over every type of solution and the pros & cons of each....and remember, this problem is NOT just in the GM LS based engines, but is an issue with ALL modern closed systems. We just tear into our cars where as the Mercedes or Lincoln owner never even realizes there is an issue.
11-27-2011, 04:56 PM
#8
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I will research the catch can mod. After looking around on this forum, it seems to be a common mod. I may start an argument here but I'm currently using Shell 91 octane with every fill up (i'm assuming Shell uses some kind of cleaning agent like Chevron does with Techron) 
And obviously I am not sure if the previous owner used top tier gasoline.
And obviously I am not sure if the previous owner used top tier gasoline.
11-27-2011, 07:14 PM
#9
Race Director
I use SeaFoam for upper induction cleaning on cars all the time.....just need to use it properly. Here is some info on understanding why we need it and how to prevent evr needing it:
Understanding the need for
a proper PCV oil separating catchcan
Any engine driven hard will ingest a certain amount of oil into the intake air system resulting in loss of power, detonation, and long term carbon buildup on the pistons & valves reducing the velocity and flow through the engine.
Preventing this on a street driven car subject to emissions requires some simple modifications to the closed OEM PCV system.
On all out race applications where emission rules do not apply, this is accomplished in different ways, but proper crankcase ventilation is a must! The crankcase gets filled with harmful combustion byproducts that if not evacuated will cause internal damage to your engine and shorten the usable life. These byproducts include: Sulfuric acids, abrasive carbon particles, unburnt fuel, water, and more. If you do not have a proper crankcase evacuation system these compounds will condense inside the engine and mix with the oil as well as begin corroding internal parts. It is NOT enough to just vent the crankcase pressure through a breather, but it must be flushed with a filtered fresh air source to carry these out & away. In an OEM system, these are burnt in the combustion chamber & further in the catalytic converters.
In an off-road or race application, the engine is normally not used to burn them off.
At the very least drag only motors have a scavenge evac system in the header collectors to pull vac, and anyone that's serious has a belt driven vac pump.....especially the Alky motors due to the amount of moisture the alcohol introduces to the crankcase.
*
Want to see whats in your oil? A simple oil analysis will show you how much harmful stuff ends up in it.
The oil analysis will show the acid build up....and no, it takes a year or two before you would see any substantial damage to your internal engine parts.....but an easy way is after 6 months or so of running like you describe pull a valve cover and look and the corrosion from the vapors on your rocker arms. This is the first place it is visible.
Bottom line is, w/out a proper evac system you WILL sustain long term engine damage. It may take a few years to notice, but I build motors 6 days a week when not racing and see the results first hand.
There are several other ways for oil mist to enter the intake manifold, the PCV system is the most common with the fresh air make up source (the fitting on the top rear of your throttle body) being the second most common. To eliminate that you need to cap the TB fitting and run a valve cover breather (installed as far from the crankcase vent as possible...ideally you want to pull filtered fresh air in one valve cover & evac it out the other or the LS6/LS2 style valley cover is second best) Then if it is excess crankcase pressure pushing oil vapor/mist out faster than the PCV can evac it you will see it pushed back through the line from the pass valve cover front to the TB and it is ingested from there. Want to see whats in your intake manifold? Simply remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the TB to the intake manifold. Take a white paper towel and reach into the intake manifold snout, rub it around, and pull it out. V6 LLT owners...just inside the intake opening you will see a deep collection well that accumulates oil. The 3rd point of ingestion is from reversion. This of course needs at least one piston/ring/bore/valveguide or seal issue that is allowing oil to be pulled into that one or more intake port and at high RPM's the reversion pulse will "push" that oil throughout the entire intake manifold. It will appear to have entered from the vac fitting that the PCV system uses but is really from one of the cylinders (reversion is a whole different process that is not widely understood but do a Google search and you can actually find some super high speed video of engines on dyno's where at high RPM's...9-10-12K plus the reversion cloud of A/F mixture is actually rising out of the intake runners or carb on a non fuel injected motor). To test for that just place a clean clear fuel filter inline between the catch can outlet and the vac fitting. If it gets oil on the can side, oil is coming through the can. If it first appears on the intake vacuum side, then it is reversion so you have a deeper issue.
*
Having engine smoke or excess crankcase pressure? There may be a deeper issue. On the LS motors we pull apart it is usually # 7 ringland broken between the compression & middle ring, or the land itself broke off at the top. We also find the top ringland pinched or crushed down on the top ring (comp. ring) and metal transfer along the piston side has caused the oil & scraper ring to stick allowing oil & blow-by. Also, try this: at idle (vac is at it's greatest when at idle or when the throttle blade closes from high RPM's) remove the oil fill cap and hold your hand over it. Does it pull a slight suction? If so, all is good with most of the system and I doubt you have a damaged piston/ring/bore. But if there is ANY pressure pushing back you have a deeper issue and that is the cause of the oil problem.
Now on big cam/stroker builds a can inline on the dirty side, and a can inline from the fresh air source may be needed (the bigger the bore & longer the stroke, the more crankcase pressure is built up) If it is forced induction, then you have a whole new process to deal with......and that is the PCV system works properly when at idle & non-boost, but when you start making boost you have switched from the intake manifold being negative atmosphere to a pressurized component and the PCV system is rendered useless and pressure escapes wherever it can. The solution then is to have one way check valves inline so the vacuum need for proper evacuation comes from in front of the compressor (head unit) through a line run to the air filter.
This is getting a bit long and I hope all can follow this, but if not ask me specific questions for clarification so this helps all. I'll go over every type of solution and the pros & cons of each....and remember, this problem is NOT just in the GM LS based engines, but is an issue with ALL modern closed systems. We just tear into our cars where as the Mercedes or Lincoln owner never even realizes there is an issue.
Understanding the need for
a proper PCV oil separating catchcan
Any engine driven hard will ingest a certain amount of oil into the intake air system resulting in loss of power, detonation, and long term carbon buildup on the pistons & valves reducing the velocity and flow through the engine.
Preventing this on a street driven car subject to emissions requires some simple modifications to the closed OEM PCV system.
On all out race applications where emission rules do not apply, this is accomplished in different ways, but proper crankcase ventilation is a must! The crankcase gets filled with harmful combustion byproducts that if not evacuated will cause internal damage to your engine and shorten the usable life. These byproducts include: Sulfuric acids, abrasive carbon particles, unburnt fuel, water, and more. If you do not have a proper crankcase evacuation system these compounds will condense inside the engine and mix with the oil as well as begin corroding internal parts. It is NOT enough to just vent the crankcase pressure through a breather, but it must be flushed with a filtered fresh air source to carry these out & away. In an OEM system, these are burnt in the combustion chamber & further in the catalytic converters.
In an off-road or race application, the engine is normally not used to burn them off.
At the very least drag only motors have a scavenge evac system in the header collectors to pull vac, and anyone that's serious has a belt driven vac pump.....especially the Alky motors due to the amount of moisture the alcohol introduces to the crankcase.
*
Want to see whats in your oil? A simple oil analysis will show you how much harmful stuff ends up in it.
The oil analysis will show the acid build up....and no, it takes a year or two before you would see any substantial damage to your internal engine parts.....but an easy way is after 6 months or so of running like you describe pull a valve cover and look and the corrosion from the vapors on your rocker arms. This is the first place it is visible.
Bottom line is, w/out a proper evac system you WILL sustain long term engine damage. It may take a few years to notice, but I build motors 6 days a week when not racing and see the results first hand.
There are several other ways for oil mist to enter the intake manifold, the PCV system is the most common with the fresh air make up source (the fitting on the top rear of your throttle body) being the second most common. To eliminate that you need to cap the TB fitting and run a valve cover breather (installed as far from the crankcase vent as possible...ideally you want to pull filtered fresh air in one valve cover & evac it out the other or the LS6/LS2 style valley cover is second best) Then if it is excess crankcase pressure pushing oil vapor/mist out faster than the PCV can evac it you will see it pushed back through the line from the pass valve cover front to the TB and it is ingested from there. Want to see whats in your intake manifold? Simply remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the TB to the intake manifold. Take a white paper towel and reach into the intake manifold snout, rub it around, and pull it out. V6 LLT owners...just inside the intake opening you will see a deep collection well that accumulates oil. The 3rd point of ingestion is from reversion. This of course needs at least one piston/ring/bore/valveguide or seal issue that is allowing oil to be pulled into that one or more intake port and at high RPM's the reversion pulse will "push" that oil throughout the entire intake manifold. It will appear to have entered from the vac fitting that the PCV system uses but is really from one of the cylinders (reversion is a whole different process that is not widely understood but do a Google search and you can actually find some super high speed video of engines on dyno's where at high RPM's...9-10-12K plus the reversion cloud of A/F mixture is actually rising out of the intake runners or carb on a non fuel injected motor). To test for that just place a clean clear fuel filter inline between the catch can outlet and the vac fitting. If it gets oil on the can side, oil is coming through the can. If it first appears on the intake vacuum side, then it is reversion so you have a deeper issue.
*
Having engine smoke or excess crankcase pressure? There may be a deeper issue. On the LS motors we pull apart it is usually # 7 ringland broken between the compression & middle ring, or the land itself broke off at the top. We also find the top ringland pinched or crushed down on the top ring (comp. ring) and metal transfer along the piston side has caused the oil & scraper ring to stick allowing oil & blow-by. Also, try this: at idle (vac is at it's greatest when at idle or when the throttle blade closes from high RPM's) remove the oil fill cap and hold your hand over it. Does it pull a slight suction? If so, all is good with most of the system and I doubt you have a damaged piston/ring/bore. But if there is ANY pressure pushing back you have a deeper issue and that is the cause of the oil problem.
Now on big cam/stroker builds a can inline on the dirty side, and a can inline from the fresh air source may be needed (the bigger the bore & longer the stroke, the more crankcase pressure is built up) If it is forced induction, then you have a whole new process to deal with......and that is the PCV system works properly when at idle & non-boost, but when you start making boost you have switched from the intake manifold being negative atmosphere to a pressurized component and the PCV system is rendered useless and pressure escapes wherever it can. The solution then is to have one way check valves inline so the vacuum need for proper evacuation comes from in front of the compressor (head unit) through a line run to the air filter.
This is getting a bit long and I hope all can follow this, but if not ask me specific questions for clarification so this helps all. I'll go over every type of solution and the pros & cons of each....and remember, this problem is NOT just in the GM LS based engines, but is an issue with ALL modern closed systems. We just tear into our cars where as the Mercedes or Lincoln owner never even realizes there is an issue.
Really trying to take all that in. I do drive my car hard at times and it has not been Seafoamed since the headers/160 stat and dynotune performed 4 plus years ago. Back then I was a total idiot engine wise but thanks to many I know enough to be dangerous!
Mods since the headers/tune include:
I installed with help a VRB2, no problems.
Then last December my mentors showed me how to install the following:
228 230 580 581 113 LSA cam and new dyno tune.
The car runs strong but I am sure she is "gummed up" a bit. Last time I had the manifold off, to change out the oil pressure sensor, I wasn't happy with the oil residue in the manifold. Cleaned it up some but I was pretty sure a catch can was in my future.
I was planning on a Seafoam full treatment then installing the catch can, new spark plugs, oil change, etc.
I would appreciate a pm with any suggestions or ideas. I am sure I probably missed something. Like I said, I am at the dangerous knowledge level,,,,
Sorry OP, didn't mean to hijack,,,,
Last edited by Silverbullet00; 11-27-2011 at 07:32 PM.
11-27-2011, 08:24 PM
#10
Drifting
Was one of the first things I did when I took possession of my '03 w/ 65k. Yeah it's smoky, and yeah it doesn't sound very nice, but it's only for a few seconds and it's well known for its upper cylinder cleaning ability.
11-27-2011, 08:50 PM
#11
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Even Seafoam does not recommend stalling the engine out. (Check their "How too" video) The knocking noise in the OP link, even if the noise if for a brief time, is more than enough to seriously damage your engine. The worse part, the damage might not be apparent at first. There is a GOOD reason why you will not find any like procedure in the GM service manual.
11-27-2011, 11:30 PM
#12
Safety Car
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Even Seafoam does not recommend stalling the engine out. (Check their "How too" video) The knocking noise in the OP link, even if the noise if for a brief time, is more than enough to seriously damage your engine. The worse part, the damage might not be apparent at first. There is a GOOD reason why you will not find any like procedure in the GM service manual.
11-28-2011, 11:24 AM
#14
11-28-2011, 11:37 AM
#15
Safety Car
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Every manufactorer that I know of has a product exactly like Seafoam that they distribute through their dearlership service departments(I am a member of the national service managers guild) I never said to stall out an engine. The machine we and most others use, meters the injection of the cleaner.We simply found over the years that Seafoam or BG44k works better and costs us less than the factory additive.
11-28-2011, 11:48 AM
#17
Race Director
Gm has a cleaner it's "GM Top Engine Cleaner part number 1050002" Same as seafoam so what's the point? GM uses the same stuff. I don't know anyone that has hydrolocked the engine with this stuff and I was pretty sure that can't happen since it's pure petroleum blend with no chemical additives. You would have to pour cans of it in one cylinder to have that happen and even if you did I still don't think you can. Show me proof that seaffoam is a direct cause of a hydrolocked motor. Anything can be harmfull if not used correctly even motor oil if you put to much in your car you will have bad effects. But adding seafoam and using it correctly will have no ill effects same as adding oil to your car. Lots of bad info out their about it that people don't have a concept of what it is or what it does so they spew info they "heard" or "read". SHow me proof
11-28-2011, 11:54 AM
#18
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Every manufactorer that I know of has a product exactly like Seafoam that they distribute through their dearlership service departments(I am a member of the national service managers guild) I never said to stall out an engine. The machine we and most others use, meters the injection of the cleaner.We simply found over the years that Seafoam or BG44k works better and costs us less than the factory additive.
11-28-2011, 12:25 PM
#19
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15 Posts
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Gm has a cleaner it's "GM Top Engine Cleaner part number 1050002" Same as seafoam so what's the point? GM uses the same stuff. I don't know anyone that has hydrolocked the engine with this stuff and I was pretty sure that can't happen since it's pure petroleum blend with no chemical additives. You would have to pour cans of it in one cylinder to have that happen and even if you did I still don't think you can. Show me proof that seaffoam is a direct cause of a hydrolocked motor. Anything can be harmfull if not used correctly even motor oil if you put to much in your car you will have bad effects. But adding seafoam and using it correctly will have no ill effects same as adding oil to your car. Lots of bad info out their about it that people don't have a concept of what it is or what it does so they spew info they "heard" or "read". SHow me proof
11-28-2011, 08:37 PM
#20
Instructor
seafoam
you can do a good intake cleaning with seafoam or any fuel additive just remove your brake booster hose and run a cap full of chemical till you notice the difference it works really well on my vette and keeps fuel mileage up.