Originally Posted by KALAWAY

Just purchased a 2001 convertible from a high end used car lot this past Wednesday. I didn't think I needed to check the oil before the ride home to NC. The next day while driving around town, the diagnostic display said there was 4% oil life left and to "change oil soon". No kidding I thought.

When I checked the oil, it was very black and even looked a little burnt. I can't believe the previous owner would drive a Corvette like this and let the oil get this way. I also noticed the oil pressure gauge is maxed out at 80 psi.

I was under the car today for the oil change and guess what. I can't do it. There's no room to put a wrench on the socket once its on the oil plug. I'll bet every one of you already knew that.

What can I do other than take it to the dealer for the oil change? I hate to drive it any more w/o fresh oil in it. And what about that oil pressure gauge? Other than that . . .

Thanks.

Originally Posted by Todds9

Don't use a socket, use a box end wrench! It will work, maybe a little tight but it will come loose.

Originally Posted by goober51

What size box-end wrench? I mean I'm lazy. I don't want to carry but one wrench under there.

Originally Posted by Bill Curlee

POST DTCS!!!

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

Originally Posted by Cybermind

Well, so much for "high end" used car lot. Your oil pressure sender is shot and the dealer probably knew that. They just hoped you wouldn't notice since it's pegged at high. But, I'll give them the benefit of the doubt on this one. However, selling you the car without even doing an oil change just shows how "high end" they really are. That tells me they didn't even give the car a once over.

You should've checked it yourself or had the car checked by someone competent. Anyways, the dealer will be responsible for fixing the oil sender. I would also complain about the oil and have it changed by them. Just make sure they use the proper synthetic oil and quality filter.

Originally Posted by AlohaC5

15mm box end wrench. Check out this "How to" link for more info.

Originally Posted by Quicksilver Vert 01

If the original drain plug has ever been replaced with the newer type magnetic drain plug, the head will be 13mm on it.

Originally Posted by Silverbullet00

Take it back to where you bought it. Your oil pressure sensor has gone bad. It happens, happened to me. They should have told you if they knew. Not a real expensive repair. If they are hign end like you said, I bet they will do it And change the oil! Read your owners manual and learn the DIC basics then search here for way more info!


The people here will help but they like it when you do some research on any given problem first. There is a ton of info on the forum!

Originally Posted by goober51

What size box-end wrench? I mean I'm lazy. I don't want to carry but one wrench under there.

Originally Posted by runner140*

FYI....I use a magnetic drain plug and use a 15mm box wrench on it.
ie. yesterday.

Originally Posted by 00 Rooster

wow, lots of anger in this thread for the OP. Instead of giving him such a hard time, maybe you should READ who actually writes the comments before assuming who wrote them.

reading is just something I learnded in skool but "KALAWAY" is not the same poster as "goober51".

Chill out guys