Car starts but shuts off when you start rolling
02-03-2012, 12:20 AM
#1
3rd Gear
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Car starts but shuts off when you start rolling
I have a 1998 Corvette with automatic transmission. The car had water damage. The BCM had to be changed to get it started. The car had steering column lock recall done with the K harness installed before I acquired it. After reading into the information here, the K harness was disconnected and the Corvettes of Houston CLB was installed. A new battery was installed as well. The car starts and runs. The "service steering column lock" and "pull key and wait 10 seconds" messages are displayed. The steering column is not locked and the steering wheel could be turned with the car off. However, once you start the engine and put it in "drive" and get your foot off the brake pedal the car rolling past 2mph it shuts off. Is this fuel shutting off and just a matter of raising the shut off limit? Anybody local to Philadelphia, PA perhaps? Thank you in advance for your help.
Last edited by 98LPEvette; 02-03-2012 at 12:53 AM.
02-03-2012, 07:13 PM
#2
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I went back to the car and did some double checking. K harness is disconnected at both ends. CLB is plugged into the female connector that runs under the dash to the passenger side. Male connector that runs to column lock is unplugged. BRAND new battery read 12.3 volts with negative cable unplugged before start. After the car idled for few minutes voltage read 12.8. So I disconnected the battery and took out fuses 23 and 25 for BCm hoping it would reset. Did the fuel injector test and same thing. As soon as I start rolling the injectors are cut off. Checked the cables that run from the battery, they look good no corrosion.
as per previous post will try to charge the battery overnight at home on the charger, hope it helps as this situation is frustrating.
Can the ECM be causing this, as the water went over the rocker panels and the computer thats under the battery was under water.
as per previous post will try to charge the battery overnight at home on the charger, hope it helps as this situation is frustrating.
Can the ECM be causing this, as the water went over the rocker panels and the computer thats under the battery was under water.
02-03-2012, 07:48 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
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I went back to the car and did some double checking. K harness is disconnected at both ends. CLB is plugged into the female connector that runs under the dash to the passenger side. Male connector that runs to column lock is unplugged. BRAND new battery read 12.3 volts with negative cable unplugged before start. After the car idled for few minutes voltage read 12.8. So I disconnected the battery and took out fuses 23 and 25 for BCm hoping it would reset. Did the fuel injector test and same thing. As soon as I start rolling the injectors are cut off. Checked the cables that run from the battery, they look good no corrosion.
as per previous post will try to charge the battery overnight at home on the charger, hope it helps as this situation is frustrating.
Can the ECM be causing this, as the water went over the rocker panels and the computer thats under the battery was under water.
as per previous post will try to charge the battery overnight at home on the charger, hope it helps as this situation is frustrating.
Can the ECM be causing this, as the water went over the rocker panels and the computer thats under the battery was under water.
I had the same problem about two months after my CLB was installed. I towed it to my buddy that had HP Tuner software and he resolved the problem right away. He also made my skip shift light my shift light
Jay
02-06-2012, 11:08 PM
#4
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The electrical unit under the battery is the PCM. If GM was overly concerned about getting it wet, they would have found a better location for it... The PCM does activate the fuel shutoff but only if the BCM signals the PCM to do so. I would not be too concerned about the PCM just yet.
To start with, 12.3 volts is WAY too low. Charge the battery fully as I stated in my earlier post.
Check the passenger side carpet. Is it wet?? Was it wet when the water went over the rocker panels??
If you answered yes to any of those I suggest that you pull the toe kick in the passenger footwell and inspect the BCM case for any kind of water stains. BCM is the large silver box to the left of the IP fuse box. If there are any indications that the BCM got wet then you need to pull the BCM out of the car. Disconnect the Neg battery cable. Remove the 3 connectors to the BCM and remove the BCM case from the pocket that it sits in.
If the carpet is wet you need to remove it and get it dried out. Condensation from the wet carpet will condense inside the BCM metal box.
Carefully remove the BCM board from the metal box. Inspect it for signs of corrosion. If you have corrosion on the board you need to use alcohol and a soft brush to remove it. Clean off all corrosion carefully. Then reassemble the BCM into the car and once you have a known good battery, see if the problem is cleared.
To start with, 12.3 volts is WAY too low. Charge the battery fully as I stated in my earlier post.
Check the passenger side carpet. Is it wet?? Was it wet when the water went over the rocker panels??
If you answered yes to any of those I suggest that you pull the toe kick in the passenger footwell and inspect the BCM case for any kind of water stains. BCM is the large silver box to the left of the IP fuse box. If there are any indications that the BCM got wet then you need to pull the BCM out of the car. Disconnect the Neg battery cable. Remove the 3 connectors to the BCM and remove the BCM case from the pocket that it sits in.
If the carpet is wet you need to remove it and get it dried out. Condensation from the wet carpet will condense inside the BCM metal box.
Carefully remove the BCM board from the metal box. Inspect it for signs of corrosion. If you have corrosion on the board you need to use alcohol and a soft brush to remove it. Clean off all corrosion carefully. Then reassemble the BCM into the car and once you have a known good battery, see if the problem is cleared.
Here is the story. The carpets were soaked. I removed them a while ago, wiped, dried and aired out the whole interior. Have been running the car with no carpets or plastics with the BCM and FUSE box out of their toe kick panel, just laying on the floor. The old BCM was fried, so I purchased a used one from a local corvette shop and manually programmed it to start the car. Took out the fuse box, cleaned everything with a brush and electronics cleaner.
Is there anybody in Philadelphia, TRI state area with the HP Tuner software to raise the Fuel shutoff limit?
Last edited by 98LPEvette; 02-06-2012 at 11:12 PM.
04-12-2015, 06:41 PM
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"service steering column lock"
I had my AC compressor replaced and in the process they removed the battery. When we went to start it, the infamous "service steering column lock" appeared. My steering wheel lock had already been removed by the previous owner????? I confirmed this by turning the wheel when the car was off. And yes, the car shuts down above 2 MPH. Some suggested a low battery was the problem. My battery is only 3 months old and reads 12.8 volts. Just to make sure, I tried a new battery with no better result. I have researched the forum, but have not found anyone with a solution to this particular set of circumstances.
WHAT AM I MISSING??????
WHAT AM I MISSING??????
04-12-2015, 07:06 PM
#6
Race Director
It's very simple your k harness took a dump your car will cut off at 2mph no matter what you try to do. All you need is a real clb and you will be back on the road. Surprised 8vette7 is having you check all that other stuff.
Quoted from one of the million threads about this issue..
"its caused by the column lock going bad. as a security measure it will shut off at 2 mph. you can fix this by getting a column lock bypass (clb) corvetts of huston sells them along with a few other places. if you want to change the shut off from 2mph to 255 most tuners can do this, but i recommend a clb because it will fix the 2mph shut off and any steering lock issues that can come with a bad column lock swithch"
So got buy a clb and be done with it and stop chasing ghosts
Quoted from one of the million threads about this issue..
"its caused by the column lock going bad. as a security measure it will shut off at 2 mph. you can fix this by getting a column lock bypass (clb) corvetts of huston sells them along with a few other places. if you want to change the shut off from 2mph to 255 most tuners can do this, but i recommend a clb because it will fix the 2mph shut off and any steering lock issues that can come with a bad column lock swithch"
So got buy a clb and be done with it and stop chasing ghosts
04-13-2015, 02:39 AM
#7
Drifting
I had my AC compressor replaced and in the process they removed the battery. When we went to start it, the infamous "service steering column lock" appeared. My steering wheel lock had already been removed by the previous owner????? I confirmed this by turning the wheel when the car was off. And yes, the car shuts down above 2 MPH. Some suggested a low battery was the problem. My battery is only 3 months old and reads 12.8 volts. Just to make sure, I tried a new battery with no better result. I have researched the forum, but have not found anyone with a solution to this particular set of circumstances.
WHAT AM I MISSING??????
WHAT AM I MISSING??????
Try this: http://www.complianceparts.com/lmc5ataglance.html
04-13-2015, 07:45 AM
#8
Le Mans Master
It's very simple your k harness took a dump your car will cut off at 2mph no matter what you try to do. All you need is a real clb and you will be back on the road. Surprised 8vette7 is having you check all that other stuff.
Quoted from one of the million threads about this issue..
"its caused by the column lock going bad. as a security measure it will shut off at 2 mph. you can fix this by getting a column lock bypass (clb) corvetts of huston sells them along with a few other places. if you want to change the shut off from 2mph to 255 most tuners can do this, but i recommend a clb because it will fix the 2mph shut off and any steering lock issues that can come with a bad column lock swithch"
So got buy a clb and be done with it and stop chasing ghosts
Quoted from one of the million threads about this issue..
"its caused by the column lock going bad. as a security measure it will shut off at 2 mph. you can fix this by getting a column lock bypass (clb) corvetts of huston sells them along with a few other places. if you want to change the shut off from 2mph to 255 most tuners can do this, but i recommend a clb because it will fix the 2mph shut off and any steering lock issues that can come with a bad column lock swithch"
So got buy a clb and be done with it and stop chasing ghosts
You need to reread Post #1. He had already done that.
04-13-2015, 08:54 AM
#11
Le Mans Master
98LPEvette: I suggest you read this-----
I consider the LMC5 to be the best Column Lock problem permanent fix out there. It also does not require you to “undo” any previous CL attempts to resolve this issue. Their eBay ads have a good video that shows the install at the BCM. It does not cover everything in the written instructions. So, read the instructions and also here is some extra info. In some cases, the BCM timing is off just enough to cause some issues. They make several versions and they can swap out/provide one of these if you have any issues. Their customer support is as good as it gets.
Not uncommon for people to "put the column in a pre-lock condition" and not know it and then start with the install. In other words, they started with the column lock “energized’ even if it was not actually locked yet. If not actually locked yet, it will be as soon as you turn the steering wheel after the LMC5 install. It will then remain in the locked condition until you cause the motor to unlock. It will then remain in the unlocked condition since the motor is then unpowered with the circuits disconnected.
Here is one way to prevent that if your column locks and unlocks normally:
If the CL is functioning normally you don't not need the Unlocker, merely turn the ignition ON, pull fuse #23, turn ignition OFF, turn the steering wheel (left and right) and verify it is unlocked. Next, disconnect the negative battery terminal, re-insert fuse #23 and continue with the install.
Also the 1999 and later C5's have a column lock relay that can be unplugged or else it will be powered and could fail and drain the battery. The LMC5 written guidance provides this info. This relay is above the BCM.
They also have a great install video in their eBay ads you need to watch.
Compliance Parts website: http://complianceparts.com/index.html
I consider the LMC5 to be the best Column Lock problem permanent fix out there. It also does not require you to “undo” any previous CL attempts to resolve this issue. Their eBay ads have a good video that shows the install at the BCM. It does not cover everything in the written instructions. So, read the instructions and also here is some extra info. In some cases, the BCM timing is off just enough to cause some issues. They make several versions and they can swap out/provide one of these if you have any issues. Their customer support is as good as it gets.
Not uncommon for people to "put the column in a pre-lock condition" and not know it and then start with the install. In other words, they started with the column lock “energized’ even if it was not actually locked yet. If not actually locked yet, it will be as soon as you turn the steering wheel after the LMC5 install. It will then remain in the locked condition until you cause the motor to unlock. It will then remain in the unlocked condition since the motor is then unpowered with the circuits disconnected.
Here is one way to prevent that if your column locks and unlocks normally:
If the CL is functioning normally you don't not need the Unlocker, merely turn the ignition ON, pull fuse #23, turn ignition OFF, turn the steering wheel (left and right) and verify it is unlocked. Next, disconnect the negative battery terminal, re-insert fuse #23 and continue with the install.
Also the 1999 and later C5's have a column lock relay that can be unplugged or else it will be powered and could fail and drain the battery. The LMC5 written guidance provides this info. This relay is above the BCM.
They also have a great install video in their eBay ads you need to watch.
Compliance Parts website: http://complianceparts.com/index.html
04-13-2015, 09:18 AM
#12
Safety Car
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FYI, I had my fuel shutoff reprogrammed to 245mph, two minute job with an HP tuner program, cost me 100.00 bucks. I know the LMC5 I installed would take care of this but I wanted to make sure it never happened to me again.
04-13-2015, 01:37 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
The LMC5 can be installed and will work if the car has never had any recall work done. The LMC5 will also work with ANY or ALL of the factory recalls. The LMC5 will even work with any other bypass type device installed. And, NONE of the recall changes or other devices even need to be removed! The driver’s side knee bolster doesn’t need to be touched. The fuel shut-off speed does NOT need to be reprogrammed. You also don't need to waste even one minute tracking down what part of the steering lock system failed. Simply install the LMC5, and EVERY column lock problem (other than a very rare BCM failure) will be gone! The entire installation is performed in the passenger foot well area, and only a carpeted panel needs to be moved out of the way by hand. Installation typically takes less than 20 minutes.
I totally understand why you did it BJ..
I totally understand why you did it BJ..
04-13-2015, 06:04 PM
#14
2nd Gear
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98LPEvette: I suggest you read this-----
I consider the LMC5 to be the best Column Lock problem permanent fix out there. It also does not require you to “undo” any previous CL attempts to resolve this issue. Their eBay ads have a good video that shows the install at the BCM. It does not cover everything in the written instructions. So, read the instructions and also here is some extra info. In some cases, the BCM timing is off just enough to cause some issues. They make several versions and they can swap out/provide one of these if you have any issues. Their customer support is as good as it gets.
Not uncommon for people to "put the column in a pre-lock condition" and not know it and then start with the install. In other words, they started with the column lock “energized’ even if it was not actually locked yet. If not actually locked yet, it will be as soon as you turn the steering wheel after the LMC5 install. It will then remain in the locked condition until you cause the motor to unlock. It will then remain in the unlocked condition since the motor is then unpowered with the circuits disconnected.
Here is one way to prevent that if your column locks and unlocks normally:
If the CL is functioning normally you don't not need the Unlocker, merely turn the ignition ON, pull fuse #23, turn ignition OFF, turn the steering wheel (left and right) and verify it is unlocked. Next, disconnect the negative battery terminal, re-insert fuse #23 and continue with the install.
Also the 1999 and later C5's have a column lock relay that can be unplugged or else it will be powered and could fail and drain the battery. The LMC5 written guidance provides this info. This relay is above the BCM.
They also have a great install video in their eBay ads you need to watch.
Compliance Parts website: http://complianceparts.com/index.html
I consider the LMC5 to be the best Column Lock problem permanent fix out there. It also does not require you to “undo” any previous CL attempts to resolve this issue. Their eBay ads have a good video that shows the install at the BCM. It does not cover everything in the written instructions. So, read the instructions and also here is some extra info. In some cases, the BCM timing is off just enough to cause some issues. They make several versions and they can swap out/provide one of these if you have any issues. Their customer support is as good as it gets.
Not uncommon for people to "put the column in a pre-lock condition" and not know it and then start with the install. In other words, they started with the column lock “energized’ even if it was not actually locked yet. If not actually locked yet, it will be as soon as you turn the steering wheel after the LMC5 install. It will then remain in the locked condition until you cause the motor to unlock. It will then remain in the unlocked condition since the motor is then unpowered with the circuits disconnected.
Here is one way to prevent that if your column locks and unlocks normally:
If the CL is functioning normally you don't not need the Unlocker, merely turn the ignition ON, pull fuse #23, turn ignition OFF, turn the steering wheel (left and right) and verify it is unlocked. Next, disconnect the negative battery terminal, re-insert fuse #23 and continue with the install.
Also the 1999 and later C5's have a column lock relay that can be unplugged or else it will be powered and could fail and drain the battery. The LMC5 written guidance provides this info. This relay is above the BCM.
They also have a great install video in their eBay ads you need to watch.
Compliance Parts website: http://complianceparts.com/index.html
04-14-2015, 12:41 AM
#15
Drifting
04-17-2017, 01:14 AM
#18
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22
If I understand your question correctly, you are getting the message "pull key, wait 10 seconds" also.
If so, most likely you have a weak battery. More importantly you need to install the LMC5 so that you never get stuck somewhere. Make sure to do the brown wire also during install.
You can also tune the car to bypass the 2 mph restriction when message is displayed.
http://www.complianceparts.com/lmc5whoneeds1.html
If so, most likely you have a weak battery. More importantly you need to install the LMC5 so that you never get stuck somewhere. Make sure to do the brown wire also during install.
You can also tune the car to bypass the 2 mph restriction when message is displayed.
http://www.complianceparts.com/lmc5whoneeds1.html
