2000 ABS Module Repair
05-17-2012, 09:31 PM
#21
Le Mans Master
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05-17-2012, 09:42 PM
#22
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Have you nailed the brakes from a 45 mph roll hard enough to cause the tires to break traction and activate the antilock system/AH. Thats when you will find out if everything works properly!!!!!!!!
BC
BC
04-20-2015, 08:06 PM
#23
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Getting a 28-TCS C1243 H code
I'm hoping for some help for a neighbor that owns a 2000 C5. She has 25k miles and I'm pretty sure she has not activated the ABS or traction control since she's owned it. Unfortunately, she can't even get it to a shop to have it checked, since every time she tries to back the car out of her garage, the vehicle shuts down. It will idle fine, but the service ABS and traction control shows up every time she starts the vehicle. In addition, the ignition steering lock message comes up as well. I've been able it turn the wheels when the vehicle is off, so there is definitely a problem there. Has anyone had an issue with this code causing the engine to shut down? I'm sure if I tried, I could get it out of the garage, but it seems like either increased rpm (in gear) or increased speed (over 1-2 mph) initiates the shut down. She has AAA for a flatbed service, however, I was hoping to get this to a shop for her that wouldn't take her for a couple of grand to fix it (like a dealership). Also, battery is on a trickle charger several months of the year (lots of snow up here in Oregon) Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Things I've heard about this code:
1)Ends in H, should reset and see if a C comes up for current
2)Try to exercise the BPMV pump motor by intermittently jumping the green wire on the pump to a fused 12v connection to the positive battery terminal.
3) replace the battery
4) replace components
Thanks,
David
Things I've heard about this code:
1)Ends in H, should reset and see if a C comes up for current
2)Try to exercise the BPMV pump motor by intermittently jumping the green wire on the pump to a fused 12v connection to the positive battery terminal.
3) replace the battery
4) replace components
Thanks,
David
04-20-2015, 08:20 PM
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04-20-2015, 08:24 PM
#26
Burning Brakes
http://www.complianceparts.com/lmc5ataglance.html
04-20-2015, 08:26 PM
#27
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That's your problem, the car shuts off the fuel when it goes over 2MPH, this is how you fix it:
http://www.complianceparts.com/lmc5ataglance.html
http://www.complianceparts.com/lmc5ataglance.html
04-20-2015, 11:16 PM
#29
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22
. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to call Richard at Compliance. He is very helpful.
04-22-2015, 10:26 AM
#30
Melting Slicks
Luckily I am not (yet) in need of any of these modules - but a friend of mine did forward this to me...
https://corvetteparts.com/catalog/re...ebuild+Service
I have no experience with this vendor - this is not an endorsement...
https://corvetteparts.com/catalog/re...ebuild+Service
I have no experience with this vendor - this is not an endorsement...
04-22-2015, 06:44 PM
#31
Burning Brakes
One important piece of information for you about ALL your symptoms. YES, the LMC5 will take care of the 2mph fuel shutoff... BUT the bigger issue is the CAUSE of this symptom and very possibly the other issues.
The MOST COMMON cause of the Column Lock symptoms is a WEAK or BAD battery or LOOSE or CORRODED battery cables.
I strongly suggest that you have the battery charged fully if it will take and hold a charge and then have it LOAD tested. The electronics in the C5 are very fussy about having adequate voltage to function correctly. This is especially true for the Column Lock system. While the car will start with a No Load battery voltage of 12.2 volts or less the Column Lock electronics is GOING to FAIL if the No Load voltage is 12.5 volts or less. The Column Lock electronics run BEFORE you start the car so having voltage once the engine is running is simply too late..... No Load voltage is the voltage measured across the battery posts with the neg battery cable disconnected. A good battery at full charge will measure 12.7 to 12.9 volts No Load.
The MOST COMMON cause of the Column Lock symptoms is a WEAK or BAD battery or LOOSE or CORRODED battery cables.
I strongly suggest that you have the battery charged fully if it will take and hold a charge and then have it LOAD tested. The electronics in the C5 are very fussy about having adequate voltage to function correctly. This is especially true for the Column Lock system. While the car will start with a No Load battery voltage of 12.2 volts or less the Column Lock electronics is GOING to FAIL if the No Load voltage is 12.5 volts or less. The Column Lock electronics run BEFORE you start the car so having voltage once the engine is running is simply too late..... No Load voltage is the voltage measured across the battery posts with the neg battery cable disconnected. A good battery at full charge will measure 12.7 to 12.9 volts No Load.
Very good point!
04-23-2015, 10:18 PM
#32
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One important piece of information for you about ALL your symptoms. YES, the LMC5 will take care of the 2mph fuel shutoff... BUT the bigger issue is the CAUSE of this symptom and very possibly the other issues.
The MOST COMMON cause of the Column Lock symptoms is a WEAK or BAD battery or LOOSE or CORRODED battery cables.
I strongly suggest that you have the battery charged fully if it will take and hold a charge and then have it LOAD tested. The electronics in the C5 are very fussy about having adequate voltage to function correctly. This is especially true for the Column Lock system. While the car will start with a No Load battery voltage of 12.2 volts or less the Column Lock electronics is GOING to FAIL if the No Load voltage is 12.5 volts or less. The Column Lock electronics run BEFORE you start the car so having voltage once the engine is running is simply too late..... No Load voltage is the voltage measured across the battery posts with the neg battery cable disconnected. A good battery at full charge will measure 12.7 to 12.9 volts No Load.
The MOST COMMON cause of the Column Lock symptoms is a WEAK or BAD battery or LOOSE or CORRODED battery cables.
I strongly suggest that you have the battery charged fully if it will take and hold a charge and then have it LOAD tested. The electronics in the C5 are very fussy about having adequate voltage to function correctly. This is especially true for the Column Lock system. While the car will start with a No Load battery voltage of 12.2 volts or less the Column Lock electronics is GOING to FAIL if the No Load voltage is 12.5 volts or less. The Column Lock electronics run BEFORE you start the car so having voltage once the engine is running is simply too late..... No Load voltage is the voltage measured across the battery posts with the neg battery cable disconnected. A good battery at full charge will measure 12.7 to 12.9 volts No Load.
Roger that. The LMC5 is not here yet, in the meantime I will check the voltage tonight. Also, i heard that I should clear all the codes before proceeding. Lastly, if the battery needs replacement, any recommendations on brand, cold amps, etc.? Thanks Guys!
04-27-2015, 05:59 PM
#33
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I would wait to clear the codes until you have everything done that you are going to do. Reason for that is the side post terminal batteries generally cause a boat load of codes when you disconnect and reconnect the battery. This is because it is near impossible to make battery post contact and retain it while you are tightening the bolts. The repeated make/break electrical contact drives the sensors mad and generates a lot of strange codes....... 
If you have to replace the battery find one that has the largest reserve minute rating possible for the $$$$ you want to spend. The larger the reserve rating the longer the battery will likely last when the car is driven infrequently and not kept on a battery tender when not being driven. The computers in the C5 are constantly drawing small amounts of current when the car is not running. The larger reserve time means you can likely let the car sit longer periods without drawing the battery down completely.
If you have to replace the battery find one that has the largest reserve minute rating possible for the $$$$ you want to spend. The larger the reserve rating the longer the battery will likely last when the car is driven infrequently and not kept on a battery tender when not being driven. The computers in the C5 are constantly drawing small amounts of current when the car is not running. The larger reserve time means you can likely let the car sit longer periods without drawing the battery down completely.
Thanks for all the helpful information. I checked the battery (she is pretty good at keeping it in a trickle charge), although, she had it off the past several days while we were trying to locate the 2mph issue. The voltage read 12.7-12.9 volts with no load, so that checked out. I installed the LMC5 module, hooked up the battery and did not get any warnings when I turned on the ignition, the DIC went right to the odometer setting. I then cleared all the codes (which had an "H" at the end of each code). Fired her up and let it warm up then backed it out of the garage, and no fuel cutoff! The abs and traction control warnings came up, but no driving issues. Took her for a ride around the block a few times and then parked it for about an hour. Took it for another drive a little furter (5-6 miles) and tried to get the abs and traction control to engage, but it was dry and she hooked up everywhere, so I'll have to wait for some wetter weather.
Unfortunately, she took it for a ride this morning and when she started it to come back home, the fuel cut off engaged again. She waited a few minutes and the it started up and she was able to drive it home, but now she is nervous about taking it out again. Also, prior to installing the LMC5 module, I checked all the BCM fuses in the passenger footwell, 9 and a few 20's (I have them written down at her house). My first thought is to take it for a drive, as she did, come back home, shut it down for as long as she did and re-check the voltage on the battery before starting it again. Any thoughts on some other things I might have missed? Thanks again for all the helpful information. She was SO happy to see her "Baby" on the road again.
04-27-2015, 10:22 PM
#34
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When she attempted starting it and had the fuel shutoff occur, was there a "pull key and wait.." message displayed in the DIC that she ignored???
I suspect there may have been. If she had done what the message instructed the fuel shutoff would not have occurred. Minor issue on some C5's that can occur after an LMC5 install.
Did you do the "brown wire mod" when you installed the LMC5??? This mod takes care of the "pull Key and wait" condition which can occur on some C5's after an LMC5 install.
I suspect there may have been. If she had done what the message instructed the fuel shutoff would not have occurred. Minor issue on some C5's that can occur after an LMC5 install.
Did you do the "brown wire mod" when you installed the LMC5??? This mod takes care of the "pull Key and wait" condition which can occur on some C5's after an LMC5 install.
04-27-2015, 11:23 PM
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04-28-2015, 12:43 AM
#36
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22
Also don't start the engine right away. Turn the key and wait for the DIC to go through all the checks then when all the lights are off start the engine. This might avoid the wait 10s message.
04-28-2015, 01:22 AM
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