azmusclecar

I'm looking at a 99 C5 and after running the GM service history, I see the oil pressure sending unit has been replaced twice already and the seller now tells me the one presently in the car has failed.

Can it be an issue of that many bad sending units? Or is it something else?

The first one was changed on 2001, then the last one 2010 and now that one has failed.

I hate to replace that one and be sure the problem lies in the poorly built sending unit and that it doesn't lie somewhere else.

I for one cannot think of anything that would cause these units to go bad other than their construction or maybe the heat generated at their location in the engine.

Please chime in if you have any ideas........this issue now has me questioning the purchase of the car.

Thanks.

b.lee

Buy it, these oil pressure sending units go out all the time
The problem is the unit itself, they do make relocation kits so they are easier to change next time it goes out

This is probably the most common problem ever, in the history of the C5 Corvettes

azmusclecar

I've read thread after thread after thread and I've seen the many issues with these units. I guess it's just hard to believe that even back in 2001 when the first one to go bad to now 10 years later that they are still that bad. One would think in the 10 year span, other than the relocation unit solution, that this problem would have been fixed by now.

Thanks for your input.......it seems like the oil pressure sending unit will become like an oil filter replacement soon. Thanks again. AZ

fendermender

Some claim ones with a brass body hold up better. I got one from Rock Auto with a brass body but don't have hardly any miles on it yet.

lionelhutz

If anything, the quality of components goes down over time, not improve.

Are you capable of changing the sensor yourself? If so, then it's nothing to really be concerned about when shopping for a C5. If you're planning on having a shop do it then figure on some money to get it fixed.

There is a post/thread somewhere detailing the parts necessary to make a DIY sender relocation kit. I took a quick look through my archive and didn't see it but a Google search should find something. That's if you care about such things. Personally, if or when I have to do it I'll just buy the brass sensor and pull the intake and swap it in and hope for the best. Pulling the intake really isn't a big deal yet it scares many people.

heavymetals

If you want to pop one, overfill the oil or gun it when cold.

Don't ask how I know this.

Corvette_Ed

The brass one sold by O'Reilly part stores has a lifetime warranty and costs about $44 including tax. I've put about 3000 miles on the one I installed several months ago. Once you get the hang of how to do the procedure shown in the sending unit video it takes 10 minutes or less to swap them out after you do it once. The first time is a steep learning curve, and if you have large hands like I do you will run through your entire list of cuss words at least three times before you're finished. The only thing the video does not tell you is to put a piece of tape on the inside of the socket you use to prevent the unit from slipping out and falling against the firewall.

azmusclecar

Well I admire your courage to step out and at least share your experience........it always takes someone to test the limits of a product.

azmusclecar

Sad to say I have the big hands, big feet and small.....uhhhh nevermind.:bb:bb:bbanyway....that is the only thing stopping me from attempting the repair.

I've lost countless tools and parts in that deep dark hiding place where they go when you either get the part out and can't get it with your fingers OR you are about to put the new one in guiding it with your fingers and VOILA! The part heads for the auto abyss and it's back to buy new tools and new parts.


I've owned many vehicles in my 61 years and I think they all left my possession with rattles, additional parts and tools thanks to these man-hands..........

I've been told my hands are disproportionately large compared to my body. Gee...if only that were true about other parts.....

It's all a matter of : Do I try it myself, and when I can't the "I TOLD YOU SO!" monkey will be all over my back or go pay the piper and then always wonder if I could have done it.

LoneStarFRC

C5 EOP: The Legend Continues

Just changed mine again yesterday. This makes #4 since I bought the car new in '99. It took all of 10 minutes since I installed a re-location kit several years ago.

Got one with the lifetime warranty and put the receipt away.

BWD S4202

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPSESWAMS_____

azmusclecar

WoW..........I will be doing the relocation kit (anyone recommend the best one to get) when I do this........if this is the 3rd sending unit on the car I'm sure number 4 is just around the corner........between ECBM issues, steering column sensor issues, column lock, and the oil sending units..like Charlie Brown says while lying on his back after Lucy pulls the football away again


ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Corvette_Ed

Just to toss a monkey wrench into things....I can change mine out in 10 minutes without a relocation kit.

Corvette_Ed

All you have to do is stick a piece of duct tape inside the 1-1/16" socket before you start. This will make a very tight fit on the sending unit and you won't have to worry about dropping it. Take it from someone who figured that out the hard way. If not for that one little thing my first time would have been a breeze. It took me longer to find a wire coat hanger than it did to pull and replace the unit.

azmusclecar

HEY! I LOST A MONKEY WRENCH IN A CAR ONCE............do you have it?

I love a challenge but when the challenge becomes a nightmare......( I ALMOST lost the bolt in the holes in the back bumper when changing out mufflers.......ALMOST)

did you ever cross thread a light bulb?

Well me and my club hands may just try the video method on you tube....that video just made it look WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY TOO E Z.

magicians make things look easy too.........but they all have small hands.

Corvette_Ed

I have large hands too, but as long as you remember to put the duct tape inside the socket you won't have to spend any time trying to fish the sending unit out. Just make sure to pretest the fit on the new unit before taking out the old to make sure you have a tight fit, but not too tight. The only reason my first time took any amount of time at all was because I hadn't expected the sending unit to fall out. Once I fished the old one out it took less than 2 minutes to install the new one. If you really get in a bind you can always separate the vaccuum hose that runs behind the intake to get an extra inch of room for your hands. It comes apart right where that opening is. Ultimately whether you want to use the "pull the intake" method, the "remote sending unit" method, or the method shown in the video is up to you. I didn't want to pay the extra for an intake manifold gasket or the pieces needed to create a remote system; I'm very happy with that decision because for me it turned out that the video method worked just fine despite my troubles.

lionelhutz

FYI, the intake isn't like the older gen engines. The gaskets are a rubber material and they can even be re-used. As I posted before, everyone is scared silly about pulling the intake but it really not a big deal on the LS engines.

I haven't even looked at my car but that tape in the socket method does sound very promising. I pulled the air tube out from behind the intake so I might even have more room than stock making it easier.

azmusclecar

Oh ....gee thank you Laura Petree............I just knew you were scoping my threads............go drive that C6 and keep your perfect C5 up on that lift..........:r ofl:

dgrant3830

The OEM replacements from GM were aluminum and apparently poor quality with oil getting through the seal into the electronics. The original senders from GM were brass. Now at this moment, on mine, I'm using a PS308 but I also relocated it at the same time and no failures since. I've heard many times that replacement brass senders are now available and that would be my first choice. Also, proper torque so as to not over-torque when installing it. I was not able to get my hand back there so ended up removing the intake both times but that is a fast and easy job.

fendermender

Some of that youtube stuff is great. I got the recoil spring back in a Briggs & Stratton last night in all of 5 minutes after watching a Canadian guy do it. Almost sounded like the Red Green show except this fella knew what he was doing.

corvettebob1

"All you have to do is stick a piece of duct tape inside the 1-1/16" socket before you start."

And this may well be part of the problem, the proper tool is a socket specifically designed for oil pressure sending units.
Sure the 1-1/16" socket fits but loads the shell improperly and can contribute to an early failure.
The one I have is a Mac tool SC46 and I'm pretty sure Snap-On has one also.