12MM torque tube
#1
Burning Brakes
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12MM torque tube
I have a 97 w/ upgraded 12MM torque tube, w/ upgraded BMW couplers. Took it apart for an inspection and notice the two rubber couplers are leaving a slight ring on the inside of the housing. The coupler itself shows signs of touching on every other nub. Not sure about this. Any experienced thoughts?
Rob Edwards
Rob Edwards
#2
Race Director
Do you still have the 97' torque tube body with just the "guts" upgraded to 12mm or a new TT body as well......
#3
Safety Car
I have a 97 w/ upgraded 12MM torque tube, w/ upgraded BMW couplers. Took it apart for an inspection and notice the two rubber couplers are leaving a slight ring on the inside of the housing. The coupler itself shows signs of touching on every other nub. Not sure about this. Any experienced thoughts?
Rob Edwards
Rob Edwards
#6
Race Director
Hey William,
It shouldn't rub. There was a plastic donut in the middle of the shaft on my 10mm setup. After we replaced the bushings I noticed a slight noise from the TT. Turns out the TT had "jump-roped" (bent) and the donut thingy was rubbing. Ended up putting a Z torque tube assembly in it with the poly bushings from Rodney. No rubbing now.
Kevin
It shouldn't rub. There was a plastic donut in the middle of the shaft on my 10mm setup. After we replaced the bushings I noticed a slight noise from the TT. Turns out the TT had "jump-roped" (bent) and the donut thingy was rubbing. Ended up putting a Z torque tube assembly in it with the poly bushings from Rodney. No rubbing now.
Kevin
#7
Burning Brakes
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Hey William,
It shouldn't rub. There was a plastic donut in the middle of the shaft on my 10mm setup. After we replaced the bushings I noticed a slight noise from the TT. Turns out the TT had "jump-roped" (bent) and the donut thingy was rubbing. Ended up putting a Z torque tube assembly in it with the poly bushings from Rodney. No rubbing now.
Kevin
It shouldn't rub. There was a plastic donut in the middle of the shaft on my 10mm setup. After we replaced the bushings I noticed a slight noise from the TT. Turns out the TT had "jump-roped" (bent) and the donut thingy was rubbing. Ended up putting a Z torque tube assembly in it with the poly bushings from Rodney. No rubbing now.
Kevin
How did you determine it was bend, and how far was it out?
Last edited by 97Rob; 06-08-2012 at 07:10 PM.
#8
Race Director
I don't really know what made it bend. Street tires and 500+HP. Driven hard but not stupid.
On mine the plastic donut had moved all the way to one end of the prop shaft. You really have to put the shaft up on rollers to check it. Tell William Kevin said hey.
#9
Burning Brakes
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Hey to you also Rob,
I don't really know what made it bend. Street tires and 500+HP. Driven hard but not stupid.
On mine the plastic donut had moved all the way to one end of the prop shaft. You really have to put the shaft up on rollers to check it. Tell William Kevin said hey.
I don't really know what made it bend. Street tires and 500+HP. Driven hard but not stupid.
On mine the plastic donut had moved all the way to one end of the prop shaft. You really have to put the shaft up on rollers to check it. Tell William Kevin said hey.
#11
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Excess rpm will make the shaft "jump rope".
The couplers have what appears to be plastic sleeves for each bolt with the rubber and cord molded around them. If the couplers are the softer cheap BWM replacements then the sleeves push together under power and the rubber will push out between the sleeves and that could be what's making contact with the outer tube.
The couplers have what appears to be plastic sleeves for each bolt with the rubber and cord molded around them. If the couplers are the softer cheap BWM replacements then the sleeves push together under power and the rubber will push out between the sleeves and that could be what's making contact with the outer tube.
#12
Burning Brakes
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Excess rpm will make the shaft "jump rope".
The couplers have what appears to be plastic sleeves for each bolt with the rubber and cord molded around them. If the couplers are the softer cheap BWM replacements then the sleeves push together under power and the rubber will push out between the sleeves and that could be what's making contact with the outer tube.
The couplers have what appears to be plastic sleeves for each bolt with the rubber and cord molded around them. If the couplers are the softer cheap BWM replacements then the sleeves push together under power and the rubber will push out between the sleeves and that could be what's making contact with the outer tube.