LawdoG247

I've been reading through literally HUNDREDS of different threads where people were having similar issues with this, but have yet to find a solution. It's rather difficult to explain what is going on, but I'll give it a shot.

Prior to actuator replacement, any adjustments made to the **** on my 2001 dual zone unit would not change the temperature at all on the drivers side. Simple, I thought, based on the codes the computer was throwing I figured that my left side actuator had either a broken gear, or simply burnt up.

So, I purchased a new dual zone actuator (not the manual one, I know there is a difference) and installed it last weekend. For kicks, I opened up the old actuator and found that the gears appear to have extended beyond the travel limits of the blend door (the markings on the actuator housing itself). I'm the 4th owner of this car, so it's very possible that someone has been in here before and re-indexed the gears, possibly incorrectly.

Ok, so now with the new one installed, I can adjust the temp on the drivers side through the range from approx. 60-90 degrees and feel a noticeable change in temp output, so I know it's correctly moving the blend door now. But, when set to 60, it never gets as cool as the passenger side. To make things better, codes B0361 and B0441 KEEP RETURNING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Any attempts to reset the codes from within the DIC will cycle the doors as you all know, yet the codes will IMMEDIATELY return. I have been able to "trick" the computer into making the codes disappear temporarily by holding the reset button and cutting the car off right after the codes clear; however, they return in a few days or so.

Even with the DIC displaying no codes for the HVAC, the drivers side will not get as cold as the passenger side. I have had gauges hooked up recently and witnessed correct pressures on the low and high side, 38-40psi & 295-300psi respectively at approximately 85-90 degree ambient temperature.

I will admit to being completely "green" when it comes to HVAC, so I'm not totally sure if the system has the correct amount of Freon in it and isn't just full of pressurized air. Regardless of that, would the Freon level cause these codes to keep popping up? I seriously doubt it...

PLEASE HELP ME BEFORE I TRADE THE CAR IN ON AN SRT8 CHALLENGER!

dmarkshark

actually, from my expericene, it may still throw the codes. I replaced my drivers side actuator, still got codes. Had the AC fixed , works good, and still once in a while it throws the code as "H". I would have the charge checked by someone who knows corvette, and not the local AC guy. I belive I saw on here that it needs to cycle through an number of starts before in goes away, not sure? Bottom line, if it is working ok, just reset a move on.
Also , you did not say, do the codes have a "C' or "H" after them. One other observation, do not move the temp ***** too quickly from hot to cold. I went through this already, and feel your frustration.

LawdoG247

Every time the codes are reset they come up "C", but almost immediately change to "H" after cycling through a few times. I'm leaning towards my head unit being bad. I shouldn't have to reindex a brand new actuator, and freon will not cause an actuator short to ground, or out of range fault.

dmarkshark

I think you will find a new head unit will not fix this issue, been there and done that.
You mentioned that you were not sure if your system was fully charged, you may need to have the system evacuated and the the correct amout put back in, maybe with some dye to check for any possible leaks.I would start with that first and then see what happens on the codes. I had this same issue with my car when I got it, so I know that it doesnt make sense, but once my AC was correct the codes eventually went away.

LawdoG247

I may look into doing that, I wonder if a shop would charge me an arm and a leg to just evacuate the system and not refill it? I have a tank of freon and gauges at work to refill it.

Slammedc5..

If I remember correctly, the 01 up doesn't have the same.travel limits, and no need to do the recal proc. Been here and done this, wanna know what? My freon charge was low. I do my own cam swaps, blah blah... I stuck a can of freon from Walmart on my car, shot some in and the Guage on the can said 34psi. So when it was sstill blow wwarm and cool on passenger side. I thought it was the accuator. I ate my pride and was so wrong. My AC buddy looked at my pressures with the proper guages, Rpms at 2000, and my system was low. A little low or a little high on freon, results are warm and cool air. Just saying, you can kill yourself throwing parts at it. But step 1 is have a pro check your freon charge

SDVette

I followed all the same steps as you... except the gear in my actuator was clearly broken... and I didn't get any codes after replacing it.

BUT, I did get the cold passenger/hot driver effect even after replacing the actuator. It turns out I had a leak in my AC compressor (needed replacement as well).

Have the AC system pressure checked... and recheck the wire connection to the actuator.

LawdoG247

Had pressures tested professionally today and they were the exact same as the ones I witnessed doing it myself, so I know it's not leaking. I'll be pulling the actuator this weekend and manually opening/closing the blend door to see if further indexing of the gears are necessary (note: actuator is BRAND NEW, and has NOT been re-indexed at all yet). My thoughts behind this are that maybe the foam seal on the door is worn/missing not allowing the door to fully close and warm air is being drawn over the heater core and out through the drivers side vents. By rotating the gears two teeth counterclockwise, I hope it will force the door to close a bit further to not allow as much hot air through.

Normally this issue wouldn't bug me this bad, but 106 degree heat with 95% humidity can kiss my a**!!!

dmarkshark

Good luck, let us know what happens.

SS2001SS

Did you ever get this resolved? I'm in the same boat with a brand new driver' side actuator.

FRITZM

Some on the forum have reported that when the driver's side blows warmer than the passenger side it usually indicates a low freon level in the system.

Originally Posted by dmarkshark
IF they are both working as you say, I would take a look at the freon charge. This is a common problem and can be the charge in the system is not correct, there is enough to cool the passenger but not the drivers side. There was a great write up on here the other day, try to find and read it, its under "AC in a 99 Vet"

SS2001SS

I saw that. I just don't understand how a low refrigerant condition would cause actuator codes??
I guess there's no harm in checking the system pressures though. I will do that next.
Thanks.

bj454ss

Mine has a slow leak in the compressor which is a common problem. Dealer charged me $150 last year to diagnose the leak and recharge they system. It last 14 months. Just had it recharged at a local reputable A/C shop they charged $78. Will see how long it lasts this time. Dealer wants to charge $1300 to replace compressor.

The Col

A few years ago, the wife's 98 blowing hot on drivers side, cold on passenger side....Me, not knowing that much, I proceded to remove the dash, center console bezel, side posts, all to expose the blend doors and actuators....I did not want to go further...also, I could not remove the actuator, I needed to remove more stuff under the dash....sooooo, I took small vise grips and closed the blend door (driver side only) and secured it with the vise grips, wedged in place.....It solved the problem...
Again, I am not a mechanic, but I do tend to try solving car problems and if I can't then take it to the professional....any thoughts?? What will not work???

SS2001SS

I have replaced the drivers side actuator and erased the codes, which causes the computer to cycle the doors. When it cycles the doors, for a brief moment the drivers side will be as cold as the passenger's side then it goes back to luke warm. I'm still waiting to get my hands on a set of manifold gauges.

I've read about and understand how low refrigerant levels can cause this condition, but I still don't understand how a low refrigerant condition would cause actuator codes??
Can anyone confirm that if the system pressure is low that it will throw actuator codes?

chevy406

I am battling this same issue with a friend's '99. Here is a test for all the "low freon theorists". Run the climate control WITHOUT the A/C turned on.

This car has the classic symptoms - cool PS and warm(er) on DS. HVAC codes B0361 and B0441. The owner said that both actuators are new. I pulled the DS actuator and verified all the gears are OK. I tried indexing the gears multiple times and ways. I get movement from it, and during the climate controller re-set it will momentarily blow cool on the driver's side until it throws up the codes again. Same situation with the A/C on or off so I'm not on board with my particular situation being freon level.

My question is how much rotation should the hot/cold blend "door" actually have? I turned it manually and seemed to be less than 45° of total rotation available. Does anyone know how much rotation it should have?

SS2001SS

Mine didn't rotate very much either, but by moving it by hand I could get cold air in the driver's side. I'm thinking about taking my old actuator and locking it in cold position and installing it damn the codes.

chevy406

Or maybe just tie a string to the door shaft and pull it up for hot and down for cold. I'm glad my personal C5 has the manaual HVAC control. Not to say it can't screw up though.

SS2001SS

I would love to convert, probably not feasible though. I mean do you really need dual zone controls in a Corvette?? I can see in a Suburban or something.