AFTRBRNR

I cannot remove the high/low pressure lines from the back of my compressor because the long tubes are in the way!

I need to take a break from all the swearing in my driveway and it's hot as blazes out... when I come back I am taking off my entire exhaust system just to get at one stupid 13mm bolt!

AFTRBRNR

Thought of a different option:

I am going to remove the steering rack first. It may just give me enough room to pull this thing out. Stay tuned.

K-Spaz

I just replaced a compressor Monday on my car, and even without the headers, it was a pita. I was on the verge of jacking up the license plate and driving a new car under it.

AFTRBRNR

ROYAL PITA!!!

The compressor came out and the new one went in just as hard. INSANE!!!

Do not try this at home... sometimes it's worth it to take to a shop...

BTW, getting the water pump back in is by far the most annoying part.

K-Spaz

Yes, the job is a real joy. And you are correct on the water pump. Gluing the gaskets on, and fighting with keeping them in place. Gotta love it. Oh, and doing the drivers side while leaned over the passengers side fender!

Most of all, I enjoyed the time estimate I was given here for 2 hours. 2 HOURS? I had 1.5 Hours just cleaning the ceramic remains of the water pump gaskets off the block! 2 hours alright.

Now tell me how you'd feel if you got done and still have yet another leak...

AFTRBRNR

Here is the crazy thing;

I got it all back together and the lines hold vacuum AND hold constant pressure when charged... but my AC is not working like it should. I put in 2 12oz cans of refrigerant and my high AND low side pressures are 25PSI at max cool and fan. WTF?

K-Spaz

I don't have any ideas there. I know very little about A/C, though, I'm learning fast. In 10 min mine is going to a shop to get the leak sniffed with a electronic sniffer. I've given up...

CactusCat

By far, I'm no AC expert, but from doing a ton of research I found out the following. Before charging the system, it should be evacuated, a vacuum pulled on the system to completely eliminate any air or moisture in the system and you should hold the vacuum on the system for 15-20 minutes to ensure you have no leaks anywhere. Charging on these systems is 1.75 lbs of refrigerant, roughly 2 12oz cans plus you should add about 6 oz of oil for lubrication as well if the refrigerant doesn't already have it added in. I bought my 98 in Oct and although I tested the AC, it was very weak (cool) air at best. I took mine to a shop that did the above (a body shop no less), held vacuum for 20 minutes, then refilled as defined by their books. Has worked perfectly ever since. Good luck on your endeavor.

Slammedc5..

To add to this, any time the system iis opened, a new accumulator needs to be installed aand a new ooffice tube. Especially after a compressor failure. The shavings will plug up the office tube.
Also, did the compressor come with oil? If not-
9 ounces of PAG 150 wt.......put half in the suction side......where the S is....other half in the a/c dryer......in the hose that leads to the suction side

K-Spaz

Well, opened hardly describes mine if you meant that for me. Tomorrow my new Evaporator will be here. After installation, the only original parts of my AC system will be the lines from the evap to the drier, and the condenser itself. Other'n that, it's all new!

Yea, the compressors come with 1.5oz of Ice32 in em, then you add 8oz of oil and hope for the best. As to dirt in the system, I never had any to begin with. My compressor failure wasn't a meltdown, the seals dried out and leaked. My orifice tube I took out was as clean as the one I stuck in.