18 minute hazard switch replacement
06-07-2015, 01:57 PM
#61
The Dorman one that I had, had no tabs at all. It was just a snug fit, but it would fall back into the dash if you pushed too hard. Maybe I got the wrong one, or there was a manufacturing defect, but it definitely didn't have the tabs. The second replacement I got clicked in and locked in place, so my socket definitely isn't broken.
08-30-2015, 09:54 PM
#63
Great post. Literally a 10-15 min job using this approach.
Removal of the OEM switch very quick and easy. I pried off the button with a small screw driver applied to the bottom edge and then used a wooden stir stick for paint placed end on on the right side of the switch. One light knock with a hammer on the end of the stick and the switch released without any damage to the switch or the mounting clips. Replacement OEM switch snapped back into place securely.
Removal of the OEM switch very quick and easy. I pried off the button with a small screw driver applied to the bottom edge and then used a wooden stir stick for paint placed end on on the right side of the switch. One light knock with a hammer on the end of the stick and the switch released without any damage to the switch or the mounting clips. Replacement OEM switch snapped back into place securely.
01-01-2016, 03:53 PM
#65
Burning Brakes
Dizzy, I just used this guide to replace my hazard switch. Worked great, except the sharp edge of the radio bezel cut the surface of my skin in a few places as I was working my hand up in behind the dash. I used the suggestion of a screwdriver to pop the old one back into the dash--I reversed it so the blade was pointing at me, and the handle was on the switch, and gave it a good whack with a hammer and it popped right back. Pulling the new one in was harder, but it got done. Thanks again!
01-02-2016, 12:24 PM
#66
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Great information. Saved this for future reference.
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dizzysn (06-23-2016)
08-30-2016, 02:22 PM
#67
Heel & Toe
I just replaced my hazard switch and the turn signals are now flashing extremely fast but none of the bulbs appear to be out. I have searched but have found nothing on how to fix this latest problem.
Any help would be great.
Thanks,
Brian
Any help would be great.
Thanks,
Brian
08-30-2016, 07:08 PM
#68
08-30-2016, 08:14 PM
#69
Heel & Toe
08-30-2016, 08:26 PM
#70
You may want to shoot a message over to Bill Curlee as well. He's a totally awesome dude and is SUPER helpful. He's helped me troubleshoot a few things on my vette in the past. I really can't say enough good stuff about him. Good luck!
Here's his profile. Just send him a private message and I'm sure he'll assist if you need it:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ll-curlee.html
08-30-2016, 08:46 PM
#71
Le Mans Master
What do you mean by the text I've highlighted? Are all the bulbs flashing in the various modes (hazard, turn, brake), or do they just look correct visually?
Have a good one,
Mike
08-31-2016, 12:03 PM
#72
Heel & Toe
I did a walk around and all of the brake lights and rear blinkers are fine. The front bulbs appear to be fine from the walk around as well, but I am going to pull and look at all of the bulbs just to make sure.
It is just weird that the signal lights go into hyper mode just after I install the new Hazard switch. I was wondering if this had happened to someone else and to see if there is a common fix.
It is just weird that the signal lights go into hyper mode just after I install the new Hazard switch. I was wondering if this had happened to someone else and to see if there is a common fix.
09-12-2016, 01:46 PM
#73
Instructor
Sounds to me like the hazard switch! It's only $20 and a bit of your time if it's not! 
I'm guessing you're on the OEM switch, so I'd pay attention to some of the other posts that have been in this thread regarding the clips at the top. Might take you a little longer than 18 minutes. I went through to see how long it would take me with a good quality switch that actually secured in place, and it took me 22 minutes. I was able to get a small pocket knife to get the top clip to pop out. Good luck!
I'm guessing you're on the OEM switch, so I'd pay attention to some of the other posts that have been in this thread regarding the clips at the top. Might take you a little longer than 18 minutes. I went through to see how long it would take me with a good quality switch that actually secured in place, and it took me 22 minutes. I was able to get a small pocket knife to get the top clip to pop out. Good luck!
09-08-2017, 07:41 PM
#74
Le Mans Master
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I just wanted to say thank you for this great post.
I had to replace the one in my 04 and this was a great help but my 66 yr old hand just couldn't manage it and after an hour of scraping up my hand & wrist I went the long way and removed the radio.
Having the knee bolster already off from your instructions made it real easy to get the new one snaked back into the right spot for the needle nose pliers to pull the switch neatly into place.
Your valuable post is still valuable today
I had to replace the one in my 04 and this was a great help but my 66 yr old hand just couldn't manage it and after an hour of scraping up my hand & wrist I went the long way and removed the radio.
Having the knee bolster already off from your instructions made it real easy to get the new one snaked back into the right spot for the needle nose pliers to pull the switch neatly into place.
Your valuable post is still valuable today
06-14-2018, 11:41 AM
#76
Advanced
Hey guys, thought this might help some people.
I had to replace my hazard safety switch in my C5 Z06, since I had no brake lights. I've read a few write ups and they all say it takes over an hour to do. I did it in 18 minutes. After doing it myself I'm absolutely shocked at the amount of time it takes people to do this and I think my way is a lot easier. With the method below, the center console bezel does not need to be removed, and the head unit doesn't need to come out either.
The steps with no video or pictures are easy and I felt they did not require visual instruction. If you feel otherwise let me know and I'll get it done.
Step 1: Pop off your trunk release switch on the left side of the steering wheel with a flat head, and your air temperature sensor cover on the right side, next to your ignition, with a flat head as well. This exposes two torx screws. Undo those screws and set them aside.
Step 2: Underneath the knee bolster there are two more torx screws of the same size. Undo those and set them aside.
Step 3: Gently pull on the bottom of the knee bolster until it pops. You need to be firm, but don't man-handle it. Be careful because there is a wire that is attached to the temperature sensor that's attached to this as well.
Step 4: I was able to gently wiggle the bolster out out without having to remove the center console bezel, and without breaking anything. I gently pried up on the bezel around the ignition and it slid right out. Once you've done this, disconnect the air temperature sensor cable, from the sensor itself.
Step 5: Pop off the hazard button. I just used my car keys to do this. I stuck them in between the button and the bezel, turned them a bit, pulled back, and it popped right off.
Step 5.5: A few people have replied to let me know that they had issues getting the hazard switch to unclip. Mine was a crappy OEM one and it just pushed right out. The general consensus to get it out is to take a small to medium sized screwdriver and give a good knock on the handle to pop it out. Alternatively if it's thin enough, you wiggle it in and use that to depress the clips. This should only add another minute or two to the total time, if any at all. (Big thanks to those who updated me with this extra step they had to take, so I can pass it on to you guys!)
Step 6:
Step 7: Shouldn't really need to be stated, but hook up the new switch and verify that you have turn signals, hazards, brake lights and tail lights before you put everything back together.
Step 8:
Step 9: Use a pair of long and skinny needle nose pliers to pull the switch forward. Looking at the face of the switch once it's in, there is an empty triangle that you can use to grab on to with the pliers. Once you've secured it in it's place, you can push the button back on.
Step 10: Reattach temperature sensor to the cables you unplugged from it, and slip the knee bolster back into place the same way you took it out, by pulling back a bit on the ignition bezel.
Step 11: Put the torx screws back in, reattach the temperature sensor cover, and plug the trunk release back in and you're good to go!
Total time took 18 minutes, not including the water and cigarette break.
I had to replace my hazard safety switch in my C5 Z06, since I had no brake lights. I've read a few write ups and they all say it takes over an hour to do. I did it in 18 minutes. After doing it myself I'm absolutely shocked at the amount of time it takes people to do this and I think my way is a lot easier. With the method below, the center console bezel does not need to be removed, and the head unit doesn't need to come out either.
The steps with no video or pictures are easy and I felt they did not require visual instruction. If you feel otherwise let me know and I'll get it done.
Step 1: Pop off your trunk release switch on the left side of the steering wheel with a flat head, and your air temperature sensor cover on the right side, next to your ignition, with a flat head as well. This exposes two torx screws. Undo those screws and set them aside.
Step 2: Underneath the knee bolster there are two more torx screws of the same size. Undo those and set them aside.
Step 3: Gently pull on the bottom of the knee bolster until it pops. You need to be firm, but don't man-handle it. Be careful because there is a wire that is attached to the temperature sensor that's attached to this as well.
Step 4: I was able to gently wiggle the bolster out out without having to remove the center console bezel, and without breaking anything. I gently pried up on the bezel around the ignition and it slid right out. Once you've done this, disconnect the air temperature sensor cable, from the sensor itself.
Step 5: Pop off the hazard button. I just used my car keys to do this. I stuck them in between the button and the bezel, turned them a bit, pulled back, and it popped right off.
Step 5.5: A few people have replied to let me know that they had issues getting the hazard switch to unclip. Mine was a crappy OEM one and it just pushed right out. The general consensus to get it out is to take a small to medium sized screwdriver and give a good knock on the handle to pop it out. Alternatively if it's thin enough, you wiggle it in and use that to depress the clips. This should only add another minute or two to the total time, if any at all. (Big thanks to those who updated me with this extra step they had to take, so I can pass it on to you guys!)
Step 6:
Step 7: Shouldn't really need to be stated, but hook up the new switch and verify that you have turn signals, hazards, brake lights and tail lights before you put everything back together.
Step 8:
Step 9: Use a pair of long and skinny needle nose pliers to pull the switch forward. Looking at the face of the switch once it's in, there is an empty triangle that you can use to grab on to with the pliers. Once you've secured it in it's place, you can push the button back on.
Step 10: Reattach temperature sensor to the cables you unplugged from it, and slip the knee bolster back into place the same way you took it out, by pulling back a bit on the ignition bezel.
Step 11: Put the torx screws back in, reattach the temperature sensor cover, and plug the trunk release back in and you're good to go!
Total time took 18 minutes, not including the water and cigarette break.
Appreciate it!
07-22-2018, 05:12 PM
#77
Racer
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A Convertible Must!
Started to approach hazard flasher relay replacement using the "remove console and radio" method. Could not remove console because it looked like I would have had to remove the convertible interior waterfall to do so. Switched procedures and used the "through the knee bolster opening" approach and it worked perfectly. I did have a struggle removing the old relay. I didn't want to hammer it out so I used the screwdriver approach with a few modifications. I couldn't get a screwdriver underneath the relay but I could on the topside. I used a small "electronics" flat head screwdriver that had a curved tip. By using that type, the blade forced the upper tab down upon insertion. Then, I took a skinny, long shaft screwdriver and pressed up on the bottom relay tab by going through the opening created by the bolster removal. If you take a flashlight and look up at it from the floor, you can easily see what and where you need to press-up with the screwdriver. With upper and lower force at the same time, I was able to easily release the relay pushing with my thumb. Two other minor edits. Popping-off the truck release switch means to pop-off the cover, not the switch button itself. Removing the ambient air sensor wire connector required looking closely at the connector to see where to insert a screwdriver to release the connection. GREAT write-up, THANKS!
10-01-2018, 12:55 PM
#78
Racer
I got my replacement hazard switch from O'Reilly Auto Parts. (Yeah, made in China.) I fussed with installing it and couldn't get it to go in. I compared it to the one that came out. The new one had thin black plastic covers on each side. I took those off and it then went in. I assume those black covers were required for another vehicle.
By the way, it's easy to remove the waterfall on a convertible, just 4 torx screws. I also needed to fix the power resistors in the HVAC unit, so I needed the console out for that, too. Having the radio out did provide some extra space for accessing the hazard switch.
By the way, it's easy to remove the waterfall on a convertible, just 4 torx screws. I also needed to fix the power resistors in the HVAC unit, so I needed the console out for that, too. Having the radio out did provide some extra space for accessing the hazard switch.
10-01-2018, 07:06 PM
#79
Melting Slicks
To get mine out took two screwdrivers pushing the tabs down, and a third hand giving it a hefty push - it was jammed solidly in there. No way that could be done without taking it all apart.
10-22-2018, 06:41 PM
#80
Racer
Thank YOU thank you thank you. Just got pulled over by state trooper, who I had passed... for not signaling. He however was just pointing out I had not signaled, I assured him I had, he helped me test and clearly I have a light problem, the hazards were not working nor were turn signals, until I kept poking hazard on and off then it worked. No ticket, nice cop.
Ordered the Delco version from Corvette Mods, I've used them before and happy with service.
Now, back to holding my arm out the window to signal for awhile.
THANK YOU!!!
Ordered the Delco version from Corvette Mods, I've used them before and happy with service.
Now, back to holding my arm out the window to signal for awhile.
THANK YOU!!!