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Old 08-21-2012, 08:51 PM   #1
elctron02
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Default Reverse lockout solenoid

I recently had a problem with my fuel and idle. I think i have water in my tank b/c i put the car away for a few months on empty. Still working on this issue. Going to change the fuel filter. On another note, at the same time this happened, my car wouldnt go into reverse (6speed).
I removed the lockout solenoid ontop of the trans. The car went into reverse. I noticed that the solenoid piston was not froozen. It is like a button.
So im not sure if it is damage. I put it back in and i couldnt go into reverse again
So, my guess is that the solenoid is broken.
Could there be a wiring isssue all of a sudden?
Has anyone removed their solenoid? Was the piston sticking out froozen?
Could it be a different issue? Any ideas?
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Old 08-22-2012, 01:40 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elctron02 View Post
I recently had a problem with my fuel and idle. I think i have water in my tank b/c i put the car away for a few months on empty. Still working on this issue. Going to change the fuel filter. On another note, at the same time this happened, my car wouldnt go into reverse (6speed).
I removed the lockout solenoid ontop of the trans. The car went into reverse. I noticed that the solenoid piston was not froozen. It is like a button.
So im not sure if it is damage. I put it back in and i couldnt go into reverse again
So, my guess is that the solenoid is broken.
Could there be a wiring isssue all of a sudden?
Has anyone removed their solenoid? Was the piston sticking out froozen?
Could it be a different issue? Any ideas?
First, you can bench test the solenoid by applying 12V and grounding the other pin. Once energized, the pin should push in easily. If the solenoid is good, I would start with the fuse (pass kick panel fuse box) that supplies the power to the solenoid. Good luck.
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Old 08-22-2012, 04:50 PM   #3
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What fuse am i looking for? Name or number?


QUOTE=Rick@RKT56;1581636959]First, you can bench test the solenoid by applying 12V and grounding the other pin. Once energized, the pin should push in easily. If the solenoid is good, I would start with the fuse (pass kick panel fuse box) that supplies the power to the solenoid. Good luck.[/QUOTE]
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Old 08-22-2012, 05:04 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elctron02 View Post
What fuse am i looking for? Name or number?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick@RKT56 View Post
First, you can bench test the solenoid by applying 12V and grounding the other pin. Once energized, the pin should push in easily. If the solenoid is good, I would start with the fuse (pass kick panel fuse box) that supplies the power to the solenoid. Good luck.
Fuse 19 in Underhood fuse block. 10 amp fuse.
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Old 08-22-2012, 05:16 PM   #5
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Ok thank you

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Fuse 19 in Underhood fuse block. 10 amp fuse.
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Old 08-23-2012, 05:39 PM   #6
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Still having a problem...
I checked every fuse in the car. Under hood and under pass dash. All fuses are good. I disconnected the solenoid and bench tested on a 12v batt. It worked. With the solenoid out the car can go into reverse.
So fuses ok. Solenoid ok. Linkage ok. I dont know what to do?
Please help someone.

Many years ago when i had the car tuned they turnned off the skip shift. Could that be an issue now?
Since i had a recent idle issue and the rpms dipped and the car shut off due to water in the tank, maybe it idle too low and made the car comptuer caused it to malfunction.

I also tested the wire connection where it plugs into and i got voltage. Around 8v of power. Not sure if this is too little volts for the solenoid?

Should i just buy a new solenoid? Its working fine.
This is annoying

Last edited by elctron02; 08-23-2012 at 06:41 PM.
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:07 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elctron02 View Post
Still having a problem...
I checked every fuse in the car. Under hood and under pass dash. All fuses are good. I disconnected the solenoid and bench tested on a 12v batt. It worked. With the solenoid out the car can go into reverse.
So fuses ok. Solenoid ok. Linkage ok. I dont know what to do?
Please help someone.

Many years ago when i had the car tuned they turnned off the skip shift. Could that be an issue now?
Since i had a recent idle issue and the rpms dipped and the car shut off due to water in the tank, maybe it idle too low and made the car comptuer caused it to malfunction.
If everything is working as designed, inspect the shafter shaft linkage. If the torx bolt is loose, it won't move the shifter fully over to engage the reverse.
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Old 08-23-2012, 09:17 PM   #8
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I did that too. I have a mgw shifter. I removed the armrest and made sure evrything was tight. With the solenoid out the 6 speed moves nicely in all gears with the key in the on position.


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If everything is working as designed, inspect the shafter shaft linkage. If the torx bolt is loose, it won't move the shifter fully over to engage the reverse.
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Old 08-23-2012, 10:47 PM   #9
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Maybe i need to do an idle relearn and that will solve b
oth problems?
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Old 08-27-2012, 06:41 PM   #10
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Maybe i need to do an idle relearn and that will solve b
oth problems?
Give me a call on the number listed on my sig.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:10 PM   #11
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Default Reverse lockout stuck, will not slide into reverse

I am also having this same issue in my '00 C5. I removed the trans to replace worn out reverse parts (reverse syncho, blocker ring and gear were bad) and installed a new reverse lock solenoid. At the same time, I replaced the front hub assemblies, all four brake rotors & pads and installed steel braided brake lines. Bleed the brakes thoroughly. When all was finished and ready for a test drive, I reversed out of the garage just fine. While on a short 8 mile test drive I noticed the parking brake light in the dash stayed on and the speedometer was not working. Back in the garage I noticed the speedo sensor connector on the diff was unplugged. I plugged it in and was going to take it out again. But now the shifter will not slide over into the reverse gate and the parking brake dash light will not turn off with ignition on or the car running. Checked the parking brake assembly and little blue connector (all looks good) and under the car I checked all the connectors from the black harness which were disconnected during rearend removal (reverse lockout & one on each side of trans, speedo sensor on the diff, each one to the rear brakes, fuel pump ground, and one on rear passenger side framerail).

What in the world could've caused the reverse lockout to stay stuck all of a sudden? It is a brand new part.

And to make things a little worse, I have a dyno appointment tomorrow.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:10 PM
 
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