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spark plug torque

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Old 09-06-2012, 09:11 AM
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Irish Whiskey
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Default spark plug torque

what is the correct spark plug torque (ft.lbs or ft.inches??) for the plugs in a 2000 coupe??
Old 09-06-2012, 09:16 AM
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vettenuts
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11 lb-ft for second and subsequent installations. If the heads were brand new, the value is 15 lb-ft.
Old 09-06-2012, 09:27 AM
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Wow, someone torques spark plugs, ought to be interesting on #7 getting a torque wrench even close.

Last edited by 3boystoys; 09-07-2012 at 09:39 AM.
Old 09-07-2012, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 3boystoys
Wow, someone torques spark plugs, ought to be interesting on #7 getting a torque wrenc even close.
Skill and patience, my friend.....






I don't understand why so many people think that #7 on a 'Vette is so tough. My first brand new car was a '71 Chevelle SS455. Now on THAT car, #7 was tough!! My neighbor had a '68 Chrysler Imperial, with a 440 in it. We tuned it up once, and had to go underneath, and contort all over the place, to get #7....
Old 09-07-2012, 09:39 AM
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3boystoys
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My point is that it's kind of a waste of time. You torque on the oil drain plug too?
Old 09-07-2012, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 3boystoys
My point is that it's kind of a waste of time. You torque on the oil drain plug too?
You screwing spark plugs into aluminum heads. Their threads aren't as forgiving as iron heads are.
Old 09-07-2012, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 3boystoys
My point is that it's kind of a waste of time. You torque on the oil drain plug too?
Torque values are there to establish a correct preload in the threaded joint. I use a torque wrench for every part that is removed and has an established torque value.

On the oil drain plug, BMW makes their drain plug hollow so if someone doesn't torque it correctly it will fail the plug and not the pan. There is good reason for their design logic.
Old 09-07-2012, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 3boystoys
You torque on the oil drain plug too?
Why, yes I do. 18 lb/ft IIRC.
Old 09-10-2012, 03:38 PM
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3boystoys
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Torque values are there to establish a correct preload in the threaded joint. I use a torque wrench for every part that is removed and has an established torque value.

On the oil drain plug, BMW makes their drain plug hollow so if someone doesn't torque it correctly it will fail the plug and not the pan. There is good reason for their design logic.
Not on my BMW.
Old 09-10-2012, 04:15 PM
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Default On Tapered seat plugs

Why, yes I do. 1/16th turn after plug makes contact with head.
Old 09-10-2012, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 3boystoys
Wow, someone torques spark plugs, ought to be interesting on #7 getting a torque wrench even close.
Spend 2 minutes to unbolt the AIR valve near cylinder #5 and pull off the 1" rubber hose leading to it. The rest of the AIR hose and tubing can now be tucked away underneath the power brake vacuum canister, making access to #7 a LOT easier. It only took a spark plug socket and short extension bar (about 2") snapped onto torque wrench to reach #7.

BTW, I bought a 3/8" inch-pound torque wrench from CDI (division of Snap-On tools). It's about 12" long (the size of a Craftsman 3/8" ratchet) and it handier for the confines of an engine compartment than 18" long torque wrenches.
Old 09-10-2012, 08:29 PM
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Awesome info as I am about to change the plugs and do a general tune on my 2001 vette.

Also, I'll stand up for anyone who wants to use a torque wrench. Even though I don't use one on everything, I can say that it's better to ask than to guess and be wrong.
Old 09-13-2012, 09:52 PM
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bighank
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Default I torqued by feel. Been doing that for 50 years

Getting a torque wrench on some of the plugs is next to impossible.
I torque by FEEL and have never had any problems with dozens of cars in 50 years. I also used some anti-sieze which GM does not recommend.
I do. Nothing worse than a seized or broken plug.

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