Ron222

How much does it cost to replace a C5 clutch? I think I'm going to be due soon.
What is the price range for labor?...

Thanks in Advance.

Rick@RKT Performance

$750 to $1,000 is average from a perfomance shop. Dealers are higher. Do your search on shops that work on C5's on a regular basis.

jpandes

^That's about what i paid for labor.

boltnut

I asked the dealer here just for grins. I was quoted closer to $1700 from them.

mchicia1

It is a fairly involved job, $700-1000 sounds about right. I have done it twice now, it is not a fun job on jack stands in your back yard with a motorcycle jack as a tranny jack lol.

Ron222

Wow!! Was that $1700.00 just labor or does that include the stock clutch as well???

Ron222

Oh you're good!! I wouldn't even attempt it with a lift never mind jackstands and a MC jack. Kudos my friend

mchicia1

Not good, just persistent and cheap lol. It really isn't that bad of a job if you can get the car high enough while also being secured safely. That is the biggest part of the job. I spent the first few hours just making sure the car was secured properly. Ramps up front with jack stands underneath in case a ramp failed. Jack stands in the back, with the wheels underneath the frame in case the car falls, and two actual jacks on the side of the car with some pressure applied to them in case something happened.

Dropping the cradle is pretty easy too. The only real difficult part was disconnecting the slave cylinder line. That was a royal PITA. I disconnected my trans from the torque tube, so lining up the clutch was a lot easier as well. I don't know how I would line the clutch up leaving the rear, tranny, and torque tube as one unit on jack stands and a crappy motorcycle jack, so I spent the extra 30 mins unbolting the trans from the TT.

Ron222

Mchicia1;

What type of clutch did you end up putting in and how's it working for you.
I'm thinking about the C6 Z06 clutch, flywheel, slave...already have a Tick master cylinder. I'm putting down right around 345 - 350 hp to the tires with no planned horsepower upgrades. What do you and anyone else here think??

mchicia1

Can't go wrong with the LS7 if you have no plans for future mods. It is a great OEM replacement and it is cheap. Get your slave cylinder and pilot bearing replaced as well.

I use a monster level 2, but I have 460 rwhp and I race on occasion.

Even with power, the LS7 is a good choice. Don't forget it is designed to go 100k in a car as light as ours but with 150 more HP =). Just don't race it all the time, and it will hold up for a long time.

boltnut

that was for parts and labor...and i was told it could possible be more. i guess it depended on whether or not the tech knew what he was doing !

mchicia1

If that is for an ls7 clutch, a pilot bearing, and a new slave cylinder, I would say that is a fair price.

7LitreC5

So, does a motorcycle jack work ok as a tranny jack? I am going to be doing mine soon on jack stands and thought that I might pick up a motorcycle jack at Harbour Freight to do the job.

mchicia1

I am not recommending it, but that is exactly what I used. Also, I separated the TT from the tranny, so everything was a bit easier to handle.

7LitreC5

What didn't you like about using the HF motorcycle jack?

mchicia1

It has no adjustments on it (couldn't tilt it) and the trans fit awkwardly between the two supports. You could just put a piece of plywood across it so the trans will fit less awkwardly on it.

I'd probably just get this if you are going with harbor freight. If you separate the torque tube, it should hold fine.

http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-39178.html

7LitreC5

Thanks! That looks like a much better way to do it.

I like the suggestion of separating the tranny and diff. I need to do that anyhow to fix a minor leak.

mchicia1

No leave the diff and tranny connected, but disconnect the torque tube from the tranny. Make sure you have very long extensions for this as you will need them to reach the top bolt. It takes about 30 mins. There are 8 bolts. Most of the veterans on here leave everything connected, but I think for first timers this is the way to go as it is much easier to handle with less than desirable tools and no lift.

Disconnect the diff to fix your leak when the entire unit is out of the car. I had to do the same thing when I replaced my half shaft seals.

7LitreC5

Got it. Thanks.

Ron222

That's kinda what I was thinking also.