hak

I want to pull my LS1 harmonic balancer. I don't want to use the balancer bolt as described in "LS1Howto" because it could damage the crank threads. There are three auto stores in my area that LOAN TOOLS. I was thinking of using the Chrysler Balancer Puller, but I don't know if it will work.
Any suggestions on a tool or method to do the job would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

dadaroo

Can you provide a link to this LS1 How to so I can see what they say? I will also look at my factory manual and see what they say. I have never used the crank threads for removal on any motors I have built. I always use the threads for installation, not sure how you can do it otherwise since using a big hammer is not a good idea,

QCVette

On mine I used a Harbor Freight puller. It was in a 3 pack of different size 3 jaw pullers and I think it was the middle or larger one. The set was only about $10 or $15 there.

For installation, don't use the stock balancer bolt since you can strip threads due to little engagement in the crank. They make a special tool or you can make it yourself with the right size threaded rod and some nuts. Some people also use a longer bolt.

Make sure to use a new bolt for final tightening. The stock bolts are torque to yield (one time use) and should not be reused. ARP also makes a balancer bolt that is reusable. I went with the ARP bolt.

Good Luck.

NukeC5

I want to go with the ARP for my set up, but I cant justify $35.00 for a bolt!

Its probably the best way to go though.

hak

Here is the link to LS1 Howto
http://web.archive.org/web/201012141....php?article=1

RonSSNova

I used the Chizzler puller. Although I had to get creative. Perhaps there was a part missing? For free, give it a try. The balancer isn't on all that tight.

The Harbor Fright puller mentioned above sounds good as well.

I made a tool to innstall, but unless you can weld etc, best to borrow an installer as well.

dstroy

You can use a 4" 3 jaw puller to pull the harmonic balancer, I loaned one from an auto parts store for free.

To re-install the balancer, put it in the oven at 225 for 20 minutes. It will slide right on most of the way and while it's still hot you can use the stock bolt to finish.

Worked great for me, hope this helps.

dadaroo

I am not sure how the damper is designed, but most dampers have a rubber ring seperating the inner and outer parts. Hence a "damper" or harmonic balancer.Most have small drilled and threaded holes to provide for pulling. Pulling with a gear pulley will pull from the outside and could cause damage to the rubber ring interface. Just FYI.

K-Spaz

It's a pretty serious bolt... And it's not torque to yield. (re-usable). When you see it you'll understand why it ain't $0.75.

However, stock one are dirt cheap. 2 or 3 bucks iirc.

SteveDoten

I have both the Kent Moore tool and OTC 6667

I've used the OTC about 30 times so far this year

QCVette

The stock damper does not have the small drilled and threaded holes.

I agree that pulling on the outside is not a good idea if you are wanting to reused the damper. When I did mine I was able to use a 3 jaw inside and not have to go outboard of the elastomer.

cdkcorvette7

That article does not recommend using the bolt for removal... I'm not even sure how you'd do that... The article recommends the old bolt for installing the new balancer which is a bad idea.

The article recommends a screw type 3-jaw puller which is exactly what I have used in the past. The pullers your auto parts store will rent you will work just fine... Take your time and make sure it's set up right with a good tight grip on the inside lip of the balancer and it'll come right off.

lionelhutz

That install method has always worked great for me too. LS1 and small block engines. They slide on like a knife through butter.

zeevette

I just ran over to my local Fastenal and spent maybe $8. You only need 1 bolt, two washers, and nuts. It needs to fit the metric factory thread, and be at least 125mm long. Of course, you'll also need a cheap-o 3 finger puller.

QCVette

That is what I did too. Fastenal had all the metric size threaded parts I needed.

Bill Curlee

I’ve used Steve’s OTC tool and MAN,,,,, is it NICE!

I HIGHLY recommend the ARP Bolt.... Much nicer fastener and easier install!! WELL WORTH the extra cash!

I made my own install tool. I cut off the head of an old damper bolt and welded it to some SAE All thread.



I also use the strap wrench to hold the damper from rotating. Makes installing the damper a one person job.



INSTALL TIP: If you heat the damper hub (approx 150 deg) with a heat gun or torch during removal and re-install, it GREATLY reduces the effort needed to remove and or install the hub.

Whoever thinks that the DAMPER is not on the crank snout TIGHT, need to rethink that statement for a MAJORITY of you C5 LS engine owners. Its a pressed interference fit and unless you have a decent puller and install tool, you’re going to have a real tough time with it.



IF,,,,,,,,, the damper bolt came loose and the damper hub was spinning on the crank, it will NOT be tight and you possibly have crank snout wear/ damage or the damper hub is damaged.

Here is some damage that most will see after you remove your damper. The timeing chain cover seal will cut groves into the damper sealing area.. If you have damage like this, you will need a new damper:


.

MAKE SURE that you install a new seal!!

BC

zeevette

That's quite an engineering feat, Bill. I'm just lazy.