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TCS/ABS error

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Old 12-14-2012, 10:35 AM
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302
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Default TCS/ABS error

I have a 99 FRC with 125k miles with some aftermarket stuff nothing crazy. About a month ago while some exciting driving in the curvy roads, my TCS/ABS lights lit up my dash. Did some research and replaced the wiring harnesses from the front wheel speed sensors to the frame on both sides. I then cleared the codes and went for a drive and still received these codes.
TCS C1225, C1226, C1232 and C1233
Any help is appreciated
Old 12-14-2012, 11:20 AM
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1sickz51vette
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Mine started doing the same shortly after i replaced a wheel hub/sensor with a "cheaper" aftermarket one... I was worried it was the ebcm went bad, but did a search on here and I believe it is the whole hub assembly. have you changed hubs? If i reset the codes, everytime I hit 35 mph exactly the tcs/abs codes pop up. Maybe you have a bad hub sensor as well.....
Old 12-14-2012, 11:27 AM
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That is exactly what mine does. The lights come on at 35 mph. I have not replaced the hubs yet. I'm not getting any sort of vibration, noise or alignment issues could it still be hubs? I've read on the forum that it is rarely the WSS.
Old 12-15-2012, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 302
I have a 99 FRC with 125k miles with some aftermarket stuff nothing crazy. About a month ago while some exciting driving in the curvy roads, my TCS/ABS lights lit up my dash. Did some research and replaced the wiring harnesses from the front wheel speed sensors to the frame on both sides. I then cleared the codes and went for a drive and still received these codes.
TCS C1225, C1226, C1232 and C1233
Any help is appreciated
Same year same problem but only c1225 and c1232... Going to try swapping harness from other side and see if that changes anything
Old 12-15-2012, 11:23 AM
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1sickz51vette
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Originally Posted by 302
That is exactly what mine does. The lights come on at 35 mph. I have not replaced the hubs yet. I'm not getting any sort of vibration, noise or alignment issues could it still be hubs? I've read on the forum that it is rarely the WSS.
The dealer can narrow it down to which sensor I believe? I'm still having the same problem to this day, heard the front wiring to the hubs can get ate up over time because it is "too short", but my wiring appears fine. If it's not your wiring, I guarantee an hub sensor most likely went bad. How many miles on the car?
Old 12-15-2012, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 1sickz51vette
The dealer can narrow it down to which sensor I believe? I'm still having the same problem to this day, heard the front wiring to the hubs can get ate up over time because it is "too short", but my wiring appears fine. If it's not your wiring, I guarantee an hub sensor most likely went bad. How many miles on the car?
Mine has 50k ...I've read the the sensors are pretty bullet proof and most of the time it's the plugs....I hope so!
Old 12-16-2012, 02:27 PM
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My car has 125k. The replacement of both your hubs didn't fix the problem 1sikz51vette?.
Old 12-16-2012, 02:42 PM
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I never had any issues until my wheel hub bearing went bad and I ordered a replacement online for the front right, it was not GM and cost me under $50 so my guess is "cheap parts" in my case. Only a few times did I get the service tcs/abs before, rarely, usually if i hit a sharp lip type bump of some sort in the road. My car is a 97 so it has the old style ebcm. Never had a sensor issue before, and I've replaced more wheel hub bearings in my car's 125k mile lifetime then I should have.
Old 12-17-2012, 09:49 PM
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I believe I may have found my problem. After inspecting my G-101 chassis ground connection, it was as dirty and corroded as it could be. It took me about 30 minutes to clean it all up. I'm optimistic for tomorrow's road test.
Old 12-18-2012, 03:48 PM
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After cleaning grounding point g-102 today, I took the car for a road test and I'm getting codes c1232 and c1233. The other two codes(1225 and 1226) seemed to have resolved themselves. At this point I have checked the speed sensors, replaced the harnesses and grounds. Does anybody have any other suggestions or is purchasing a EBCM necessary.
Old 12-18-2012, 05:31 PM
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I'm thinking you've still got wiring problems. Take the leads going to the wheel sensors off and take the connectors apart. (yes the connectors themselves come apart) Clean them, bend the springs and put them back together again and swap them side to side.

On my car one of the wires likes to be tucked up close to the suspension, the other likes to hang down lower (what does this sound like?) in the breeze. Any other way and they flash codes.

Hey! You're from Jersey? WHAT EXIT?
Old 12-21-2012, 01:18 PM
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Check this out

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ed-sensor.html
Old 12-21-2012, 01:36 PM
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The WSS portion of the HUB is pretty much bullet proof.. Its just a coil of wire on a plactic spool and the reluctor on the hub shaft rotates within thaqt coil. Unless you have damage to the sensor its self (seriously dented/damaged) or the hub pig tail gets ripped off, I seriously doubt that you have WSS issues.

You can disconnect the sensor and measure the output of the sensor. Its an AC Voltage. It will be ZERO VAC to approx 5 VDC (wheel spinning very fast. Its not the voltage that matters but the frequency of that voltage.

HOWEVER,, If you have damaged FEMALE Connector female pins,, That is where your issue lies. Get a spare male pin and TEST THE GRIP of the female pins. You should have a very firm DRAG when you insert and remove the male pin. If not, re-bend the small tong that makes the grip on the in the female pin. I use a dental pick but a sharp scrive works pretty good.

BC
Old 12-21-2012, 01:38 PM
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Front Wheel hub and WSS:



WSS removed:



Old 12-22-2012, 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
The WSS portion of the HUB is pretty much bullet proof.. Its just a coil of wire on a plactic spool and the reluctor on the hub shaft rotates within thaqt coil. Unless you have damage to the sensor its self (seriously dented/damaged) or the hub pig tail gets ripped off, I seriously doubt that you have WSS issues.

You can disconnect the sensor and measure the output of the sensor. Its an AC Voltage. It will be ZERO VAC to approx 5 VDC (wheel spinning very fast. Its not the voltage that matters but the frequency of that voltage.

HOWEVER,, If you have damaged FEMALE Connector female pins,, That is where your issue lies. Get a spare male pin and TEST THE GRIP of the female pins. You should have a very firm DRAG when you insert and remove the male pin. If not, re-bend the small tong that makes the grip on the in the female pin. I use a dental pick but a sharp scrive works pretty good.

BC
Does this make sense for voltage
Side with problem

https://www.dropbox.com/s/odeq6caj21...%2000%20AM.mov

Working side
https://www.dropbox.com/s/66lfjcdb0h...%2027%20AM.mov
Old 12-22-2012, 09:53 AM
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I was looking under my hood today and noticed if you look down below the brake master cyl there is a wiring connector running along the leaf spring I believe.... That is the same one going to the wheel sensors correct? Appears to be an area that brake fluid could be spilled right on the connector. I can also see the connector on the passenger side as well and they look pretty dirty on the outside. I figured it was a bad hub sensor in my case since I just replaced the front right hub assembly with a cheap one off ebay and started throwing codes a week or two later.
Old 12-22-2012, 06:10 PM
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As long as you have voltage,, it's good. The faster it goes the higer it gets.
You cant say it suppose to read XXX, As long as you have a voltage when it rotates and it inceases as you rotate faster ,, your golden.

YES,, The WS connector is on the K member below the brake master cyl and the same place on the other side. Thats where you will find spread pins alot of the time.
Old 12-31-2012, 05:59 PM
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Hey man,

You still having the problem? I get teh same error intermittently and hoping it isnt the EBCM

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