SacCityCorvette

We can't do any more test on our Vette at the moment because we have the engine out to add more HP.
Correct, we are showing whats getting to the battery.
But if the voltage jumped .2 it shows that all the voltage from the alt is not making it to the battery. To me, it also shows there is room for improvement.

SacCityCorvette

Thank you wcsinx for your business, we really appreciate it.

When we start designing this kit we didn't think we would have to sell it at that price. But as we started adding up the cost of everything and the amount of labor to make it, it is what it is.
I know a lot of people look at it and say $120 for some wire, but when they start trying to find all the parts and spend all the time to make a high quality kit that fits right $120 is not so bad. As Choreo here on this post found out. I see he put a lot into his kit.
Good job Choreo!

lionelhutz

I agree and that test wasn't showing the gains by installing the other wires since there were in place. Also, you didn't have as much load as you could have applied and that should show more voltage drop too.

Good luck in the HP quest.

SacCityCorvette

I must be miss understanding, not sure what other wires? All the factory wires were connected during the test. We were just connecting and disconnecting the Big3.

lionelhutz

You were unhooking the new main feed from the alternator, right? Weren't the new ground wires still in place?

wcsinx

Yeah, it really isn't. I mean unless you're working for slave wages, you're going to end up spending a lot more than that in your time.

Funny thing is I scratched my head for awhile trying to figure out how to piggyback off the OEM sidepost connectors without 1. compromising their functionality and 2. looking "Bubba". Then I said to myself, "I wonder what those Sac guys did?" Then I saw your slick custom fasteners, muttered to myself a bit, and pulled out my credit card.

SacCityCorvette

Yes that's correct.

SacCityCorvette

It took us a while to figure out a clean way to do the top post for C5 and C6 Vettes. No cutting of factory wires and a clean simple bolt on. This is what we came up with. Only issue is that it is a bit more expensive to do, but worth it for those that want the best!

wcsinx

Well ... crap

I installed my Big 3 kit on Friday. Didn't go anywhere yesterday. Went to start it up today, and I got "Charge System Fault" and "Low Voltage" messages on the DIC. But the messages would come and go. I'd start it once, and it'd be perfectly fine. 20 minutes later ... blah ... messages, dim display, ECM couldn't cycle up, etc.

So I pulled all 3 leads to the battery off ... same thing
Pulled the alternator lead off ... same thing

So at this point all I have left from SAC still attached is the head to frame ground, and the side post fasteners.

Couldn't see how the head to frame ground could cause that, so I swapped the side post fasteners back to the stockers, and just like that the problems disappeared. Upon closer inspection, the seating surface of the fasteners they're using is significantly smaller than stock. The difference is about 1/10" of an inch in diameter which doesn't sound like much until you see that 1/10" means the difference of applying pressure on the entire surface of the cable terminator fitting v/s just the inside lip. And that was enough to keep me from getting good system voltage even after torquing it down so hard I was worried about stripping out the battery threads.

Now please anyone reading this don't take this as me publicly slagging SAC. They have a good product at a fair price. It just needs a little debugging. I'm fairly confident that I can get this to work with a couple washers. I measured the diameter of the stock seating surface as ~18 mm. So I shall make a stop at Ace tomorrow and see what I can find.

[edit] nope ... nevermind, that wasn't the problem. It acted up after work today with everything back to stock. Pulled the ignition switch, and several of the contacts were burnt (one quite badly so), cleaned them off, and stuck it back in and all seems back to normal now. Third damn time I've done that, so I'm ordering a new one right now. I guess it was just coincidental timing. I'm still going to try to get some washers though to give the post fastener a larger clamping area.

SacCityCorvette

Hi wcsinx,
Thank you for your business, we apperciate it!
Glad you got it figured out and thanks for clearing up that it wasnt our Big 3.
We have several of our Big 3 kits installed with zero connection
issues. There is only a .060" difference between the stock terminal bolt and ours. Thats only .030" difference around the edge and shouldnt affect anything. I really dont think washers will make a difference.
Thanks agian!
Christian

wcsinx

You're probably right. I want to get some washers anyway to get the bolt head to stand out slightly more though. As it is, it starts to bury itself under that silicone terminal cap.

Speaking of those caps, one thing I did differently from your install video was I actually pulled your alternator terminator through the same cap as the stocker. It's stretchy enough to accommodate both, and the install looks a little cleaner that way.

SacCityCorvette

Thats cool that you able to slip the wire in the in the boot like
that.
Our boot was kind of stiff.

wcsinx

update: took some time this weekend and put in a new ignition switch, fixed my falling HUD, and hooked the Sac Big 3 back up.

There is a noticeable improvement in power delivery. I used to be able to hear my blower motor slow down while I raised/lowered the windows. That doesn't happen anymore. Nor do my headlights dim in time with the turn signals.

This is a worthwhile mod.

SacCityCorvette

Thanks for the update wcsinx! We appreciate it and your
business!
Sound like a real nice improvement.

AntonioZ06

I'm guessing this will also help correct the headlights/interior lights dimming when the window motors are under load or using turn signals.

SacCityCorvette

Hi Antonio,
wcsinx says it fixed his.

baxsom

I wish you guys had this a year ago. I had to make my own from separate components.

blackcrow64

Just placed my order!! Almost time to get the Z06 out for the season!!

SacCityCorvette

Thank you for your Business Brain, we really appreciate it!

alxltd1

I purchased your kit before I decided to relocate my battery to the rear of the car. My 2000 coupe is in for major engine, drive train, interior upgrades and I am adding a number of new gauges, and electrical components (switches, relays, etc.). I am also moving the battery to the rear to make room for either a centralized relay panel (11 new relays) or a self contained fuel cell for the nitrous system. I have the components for the relocation of the battery (cables (1ga), battery box) but with the battery in the rear, should I run an upgraded positive cable from the alternator to the rear mounted battery or to the positive post on the engine compartment fuse box , which will be fed from the rear mounted battery? Would doing so negate any benefit of the upgraded cable from the alternator?

I would be upgrading the ground cable from battery to frame in the rear, and would upgrade the frame to engine ground cable as well. Any information would be appreciated as I am admittedly no expert in this area. Thanks in advance.