Volant Intake Install. Some tips...
04-08-2013, 10:03 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Volant Intake Install. Some tips...
The kit only comes with a photo and a list of parts. This is almost all you need as it is fairly straight forward, but there are a few things that experience helps with.
Tools Needed:
1) Long shank flat-blade screwdriver
2) Nut Driver kit. (I didn't have)
3) K-Y Jelly, no I'm not kidding.
4) #27 Torx driver - folding set, or other short shank type.
5) Gloves
6) MAF cleaner
7) Throttle body cleaner
8) Hacksaw or Dremel
9) 3/8 Socket set
Disassembly:
I found that in removing the old intake, the plastic parts of the air cleaner shroud have ragged edges that are like little saws. Wearing gloves will reduce blood loss potential.
After removing the air cleaner, I also unscrewed the studs at the front of the engine compartment using the Torx driver. This area has little room, so the shorter the tool, the better. I used a folding set. These studs have a washer on them, so be careful not to lose them. Removing these will help eliminate fit problems during install.
While you have the air cleaner out, it wouldn't be a bad idea to remove the radiator shroud and clean the radiator out.
The rubber air tube that is attached on my car had a plastic sawtooth jaw type clamp. This had to be pried apart. It was actually the last thing I removed.
On my car, the MAF was a big PIA to get out as it fits really, really tight in the old intake. Be extra careful not to get your fingers in it or drop it.
Clean the MAF and the throttle body. Mine didn't look dirty at all, but I cleaned it anyway, same with the throttle body, just good preventative maintenance since you already have everything apart.
Volant Install:
After reading that some people had interference fit difficulties, I came to the conclusion that it was best to push everything ahead of the air bridge as far onto their mating assemblies as possible. This paid off later in not having any fit problems.
The "flexible" silicon tubes are reinforced with a cloth mesh, so they do not like to stretch. A very small amount of K-Y Jelly will help with assembly. Why K-Y Jelly? It is water soluble and absolutely will not harm the materials.
My MAF had an alignment tab that first had to be cut off with a hacksaw. It takes two cuts. If you don't do this, you will not be able to fully seat the MAF into the Volant air bridge.
Once seated and the clamps added tightly enough to also assembly into the car, you'll want to align the MAF connector/electronics assembly as close to the radiator shroud as possible so you avoid the cable connector jamming into the hood liner.
Route the MAF cable outside(toward the wheel well) of the old air bridge pin on the radiator shroud so it doesn't get crushed under the new air bridge.
The clamp on the air bridge must be REALLY tightened down hard to get the MAF to be tight. You are essentially trying to tighten the thick plastic of the air bridge down onto the MAF body.
After a final alignment, tighten everything up - and don't forget to put that tube on! The alligator clamp just squeezes together. Hand tight is good enough.
Tools Needed:
1) Long shank flat-blade screwdriver
2) Nut Driver kit. (I didn't have)
3) K-Y Jelly, no I'm not kidding.
4) #27 Torx driver - folding set, or other short shank type.
5) Gloves
6) MAF cleaner
7) Throttle body cleaner
8) Hacksaw or Dremel
9) 3/8 Socket set
Disassembly:
I found that in removing the old intake, the plastic parts of the air cleaner shroud have ragged edges that are like little saws. Wearing gloves will reduce blood loss potential.
After removing the air cleaner, I also unscrewed the studs at the front of the engine compartment using the Torx driver. This area has little room, so the shorter the tool, the better. I used a folding set. These studs have a washer on them, so be careful not to lose them. Removing these will help eliminate fit problems during install.
While you have the air cleaner out, it wouldn't be a bad idea to remove the radiator shroud and clean the radiator out.
The rubber air tube that is attached on my car had a plastic sawtooth jaw type clamp. This had to be pried apart. It was actually the last thing I removed.
On my car, the MAF was a big PIA to get out as it fits really, really tight in the old intake. Be extra careful not to get your fingers in it or drop it.
Clean the MAF and the throttle body. Mine didn't look dirty at all, but I cleaned it anyway, same with the throttle body, just good preventative maintenance since you already have everything apart.
Volant Install:
After reading that some people had interference fit difficulties, I came to the conclusion that it was best to push everything ahead of the air bridge as far onto their mating assemblies as possible. This paid off later in not having any fit problems.
The "flexible" silicon tubes are reinforced with a cloth mesh, so they do not like to stretch. A very small amount of K-Y Jelly will help with assembly. Why K-Y Jelly? It is water soluble and absolutely will not harm the materials.
My MAF had an alignment tab that first had to be cut off with a hacksaw. It takes two cuts. If you don't do this, you will not be able to fully seat the MAF into the Volant air bridge.
Once seated and the clamps added tightly enough to also assembly into the car, you'll want to align the MAF connector/electronics assembly as close to the radiator shroud as possible so you avoid the cable connector jamming into the hood liner.
Route the MAF cable outside(toward the wheel well) of the old air bridge pin on the radiator shroud so it doesn't get crushed under the new air bridge.
The clamp on the air bridge must be REALLY tightened down hard to get the MAF to be tight. You are essentially trying to tighten the thick plastic of the air bridge down onto the MAF body.
After a final alignment, tighten everything up - and don't forget to put that tube on! The alligator clamp just squeezes together. Hand tight is good enough.
