williamb81

I just got my new engine in and noticed that the harmonic balancer bolt has backed out in less that 100 miles. It is a arp bolt that was torqued to spec with red loctite before engine went in car. The harmonic balancer has moved forward about half an inch and the main belt is barely on now.

My questions to yall, has anyone ever replaced the bolt without removing the rack and pinion? I can get a wrench on the bolt as it is now but dont think its possible to torque to spec with out removal of the rack. Also, any reasons why the bolt would have backed out? I hate to reinstall and have it happen again....

RonSSNova

Did you do the install of the bolt with loctite yourself?

williamb81

Funny you say that, I did not. I was working on something else while my buddy did it. I normally would worry about that but this guy is an engineer that knows his ls1s.

RonSSNova

Well, I wasn't going to say you forgot, but perhaps he did. At any rate, I think you should remove the rack so you can remove the bolt and check. Maybe you can just lift the rack w/o removing it.

Also, what balancer and did you pin it? Since it's a press fit, perhaps it just wasn't enough of a press fit due to tolerances? That non pinned deal drives me nuts, so I pinned mine with the ATI kit. Old school ya know.

Good luck!

Ron

williamb81

Stock vette balancer and i did not pin it.

Have it here at work and thought maybe i could walk to napa and get a 1 1/16 12 point wrench on it to tighten it down to get it home, NOPE wont clear the rack. worst 25$ investment ever.

vettenuts

Is it a new harmonic damper as well?

kmetros

Been there. Pull the rack and make one if these. It was the only way I could get to TQ spec without the crank turning.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1580794411-post1.html

I pinned it to boot. If it makes you feel any better it goes much quicker the second time you pull the rack!

Kurt

Kurt

Rx7Rob

Are you sure the bolt backed out and its not the balancer separating?

ARP recommends lube under the washer and under the head of the bolt.

You should also check to ensure the balancer is on the crank shaft the specified distance as per the manual.

SteveDoten

Like Ron said, Pin the crank pulley if it hasn't been done already(regardless of SC or not).

The rack comes out in 20 minutes, drop the cradle down a bit and move it out the driver's side

Make a checklist during any work, no guessing who/how/what when the list is signed off

williamb81

Thanks for all the quick responses! Got it done last night.

While putting the rack in alone i tore one of the rack boots. Cut it out and am having issues getting the new one on. If the boot was not such a hard plastic i would easily be able to get it. Any of you ever had to do this with the rack in the car? Suggestions? (edit) add heat!

SteveDoten

drop the cradle down and remove the bracket for the EBCM to make the rack a 15 minute job, any possibly avoid tearing the PS boots

I will also use a few cans of brake clean on the cradle when everything is out to get things looking mint again, just keep the cleaner away from any rubber seals/hoses

rodsvet

Pin the crank, use ARP bolt with red loctite, torque to 24o lbs. and it ain't coming loose again. S#@$ can the stock balancer too. Rod

williamb81

Just got the car dyno tuned. Made 400 at the rear wheel which i am very happy with. On the down side, bolt backed out again. FML!!!!

SteveDoten

1. You pinned the crank?
2. New crank pulley was used?
3. After installing with the Hawk or Kent Moore pulley tool, torqued 'old' bolt to 240ft/lbs
4. Remove old bolt, install new bolt, tq'd to 38ft/lbs, then 140 degrees of rotation.
4a. Or use ARP bolt and correct torque.

Maybe the crank snout ruined.

williamb81

Didnt pin the crank. Same pulley. Used the same ARP bolt that backed out the first time. Red lock tite, and torqued to little over 200ftlbs(Thats all my torque wrench would go to). It backed off today while on the dyno. I dont want to have to do this again so i will pin it, and use a cheater pipe to tighten as much as i can. Any other suggestions or advice? It would be much appreciated!

1999_TRC

Guess what, you're going to do it again, because you refuse to do it right. What don't you understand about 240 ft lbs? If you don't have a torque wrench that goes that high, then get one for christ sake. While the chance of you snapping an ARP bolt is slim, just putting a cheater bar /wrench, and tight is you can is not the answer.

SteveDoten

I'd also toss the current pulley in the scrap bin, check the crank snout vs pulley ID delta, but still wouldn't reuse it.

New GM or Powerbond crank pulley(Powerbond is often relabeled by other companies), it's a proven crank pulley available in stock or underdrive

derek502

I have a new GM set listed on ebay right now. bought it for a 2000 C5 and never installed it before I wrecked the car.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181121044204...84.m1555.l2649

williamb81

Derek, I would have bought yours but 5 mins before your post i ordered the Powerbond from texas speed along with the A&A pinning kit.

Thanks again for everyones suggestions/help minus 1999 trc's of course.

lionelhutz

I would be very suspect of the damper to crank interference fit. Most likely, the damper is too loose a fit on the crank snout and the only way you'll keep a damper on that engine now is by pinning it. Especially now that you've spun the damper on the crank snout.