Chicago1

What's the sliding way you guys are refering to? At least he took the time to post it for those who want another way to do it.

The Big Guy

Previously there was a replacement kit that did require movement of the intake manifold. BUT it replaced the oil sender to the oil filter outlet. Thereby replacement was as easy as changing the oil filter. No cutting required. IMHO this is the way to go. Fortunately I purchased the kit just in case of possible future need. 99 6mm with 142,000 miles still on the original O/S AND plug wires. Runs like a stripped *** ape.
Thats my 2 CTS.
The Big Guy !

pmr2000

Thanks so much will reconsider both methods...anyone know how much to torque new sender 15 ft lbs..?

zachaeous

15 ft lbs is what my manual says or 180 inch pounds.
I used a inch pound torque wrench for mine due to the fact my ft lbs torque wrench did not go that low.

jackthelad

I tried the "wiggle in there and change it" Youtube approach with my '98. But there is stuff (like a very solid bracket) in the way - you just cannot get your hands, fingers or anything else back there. I cut through from the AC intake. Easy to do, you just need a Dremel (who does not have one of those?) and there it is. Just as well really, as the connector was an SOB to remove - and replace, even with a clear view. But it had been in place for 16 years, so who am I to complain. Thumbs up to Rockauto for fast delivery on the new sensor.

Siliconed the cut out piece back in place, so if I have to do it again it's easy.

MrRenoman

I followed the same path. I used a hole saw to cut through the cowl. Started at an angle then straightened it out. It made an oblong hole that the trim covered.

pmr2000

I cut a 2 x 3 piece out with dremel, replaced sensor, 15 ft/lb, still a pain to unclip and pull wire out and reclip into the dark hole, used a long screwdriver and long needle nose from hole and engine side to guide.


To cover I cut a 3x4 piece of aluminum and bent to fit contour. Then put hvac aluminum tape from engine side to cover hole, then silicone the aluminum sheet in place.

stratovarious

Does this look like a good kit for the fuel lines and trans cooler lines ?
Which tool do you use for the intake fuel lines, is it obvious, or possibly
a chart somewhere that indicates which one to use.
Do I need the kit , or does someone have a link to the exact tool ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8Pcs-Automot...NW5D~4&vxp=mtr

zachaeous

I have the silver tool in the kit that is on the very right side in the picture and it disconnects the fuel line under the hood.

I think when I bought the tool it was almost as much as the whole set pictured.

I think that the other items in the kit would be good to do the transmission lines also.

Good luck with your repair

stratovarious

Thanks man , that's perfect, the kit does look like a heck of a value,
I'm still shopping for the car, I'm lining up every tool
that I feel will be essential to my survival tool box.
At this point I've determined the year range , color and most of the
features that I think I can't live without in the C5. Last time I checked
Car Complaints dot com, I think I found zero complaints for the years
I was looking at, I won't mind these types of repairs; censor sending
units, hud display fixes, steering lock.... just glad to know I don't need
to worry too much about catastrophic trans and engine implosions.

gpruitt54

Excellent work. Great photos. Fantastic descriptions. I have a sender that is no longer working. I have looked at the video referenced. I will have to try this method. I have no comfort level with taking off the intake and fuel rails in order to access a simple sending unit. This method looks like a real solution.

Question; does the hole have to be large enough to reach your hand into the area? Would this work to make the hole large enough to get some tools into the area?

pmr2000

This is what I did - dremel cut the hole, foil tape under the hole, silicone and aluminum patch sandwich see pic., form the aluminum patch to the contour of the hole. I know I butchered a vette but to me did not want to disturb 15 year old rail, gasket, lines, plastic etc..

My earlier post:
I cut a 2 x 3 piece out with dremel, replaced sensor, 15 ft/lb, still a pain to unclip and pull wire out and reclip into the dark hole, used a long screwdriver and long needle nose from hole and engine side to guide.


To cover I cut a 3x4 piece of aluminum and bent to fit contour. Then put hvac aluminum tape from engine side to cover hole, then silicone the aluminum sheet in place.

feeder82

That looks like alot more work than disconnecting the air bridge, unbolting the intake and setting it off to the side, after 15 years those lines and gaskets probably could use replacement anyway. Had to throw my 2 cents in because these posts make people think it's difficult to pull the intake, it's actually really easy and can be done in less than 1/2 hour

Johnny wangwang

gpruitt54

I have never done this kind of work on in a long time. and I have only owned my C5 for a couple of months. Are saying that you don't have to relocate or remove fuel rails in order to remove the intake manifold?

zachaeous

That is right. You do not have to remove the fuel rails. All that has to be disconnected is the fuel line that hooks to the fuel rail. The fuel rails are left connected to the intake manifold.

It really is not to bad a job to remove the intake, I have taken mine off a couple of times.

Good luck

73Corvette

This is the best tutorial I have found so far...

http://www.vette747.com/index.php/en...intake-removal

I tried this method on a buddies vette without much success, but it has worked fo others...

gpruitt54

Yep, lots if people have seen this video. According to some here, this is not doable and others say it is easier to just remove the intake manifold.

feeder82

and if your careful you can just move it enough to change without even disconnecting the fuel line

ls1121

bump 4 me