TXVette435

I did look the replacement possibilities, but taking out intake, fuel-rails etc. that does not make a sense to me. Youtube video changing the sensor in small space under the air cowl, could not be done with big hands. I got my wife and even grandson, they were not able to get hand in, neither to see sensor location to be able work on it. It depends on the vette and what modification you have.
I choose third version to cut whole in Air-Cowl fiber, this looked to me most efficient way and when done next replacement will take 15 minutes. I made a couple of pictures for others, if they will choose this way. I did not see pictures anywhere on the web or forums for this version.

1/ Tools: Ratchet set with 6" to 8 " extension
Deep socket 1"-11/16
8" long thin flat screwdriver - to un-latch connector
Long nose pliers.
Dremel tool with 3/4" cutting wheel and small mill bit(using to cut tide space)
PVC plate or aluminum sheet to make cover for access hole
3M dual-sided tape
Black silicone seal.
Car ready for installation


2/ First take off the Wipers ( undo nut under the plastic cup in the end of arms)
Take of 5x plastic retainers on plastic cowl cover - be careful not to break them, unless you have a new ones.
Attachment 48376338
3/ After all 5x retainers are out slowly slide cowl cover out towards to front of the car. Do not use any sharp tools around the window to pry, you WILL CRACK the WINDOW. Cowl cover will slide out very easy.
Attachment 48376339
4/ Now mark the whole opening with marker, whole should be 4"x3" look for the position on the picture. Use your Dremel tool to cut the fiber. Be careful not to cut too deep, wire loom and vacuum hose are under. You can feel from the engine bay if you touch cowl what is under and you can keep it away.
Attachment 48376340
5/ After whole is cut you will see clearly position of the sensor. Use tie rap to keep vacuum hose and wire loom out of the installation way.
Attachment 48376341
6/ Take your long small flat screwdriver and unlatch the connector while you pulling gently on the wires up (you can use long nose pliers to pull) Pull connector out and clean it, it will be full of the oil.
Attachment 48376342
7/ Use your deep socket to un-screw the sensor
Attachment 48376343
8/ Re-install a new sensor from O'reiley S4202 and connect the sensors connector. Cut tie rap which you used to keep vacuum hose and wire loom away from installation.
Attachment 48376344
9/ Clean around the whole with alcohol and install 3M tape, which will hold the whole cover.
Attachment 48376345
10/ Make cover from Aluminum sheet (I used 1/16" which I had at home) Contour the aluminum cover by the shape of air-cowl. You can paint the cover to just blend it with fiber. Before you cover the opening make sure you test your install and sensor is working as intended.
Attachment 48376346
11/ On the end I did use black seal to fill the side of cover to prevent the water going inside. This is just a prevention for those which are perfectionists. Top cowl cover, which you will reinstall, will cover the whole totally. But I did not take any chance, I like install clean and cover the whole water tide working for me. Re-install cowl cover, with 5x retainers and wipers and YOU ARE DONE.
Next time your Oil Sensor replacement will take 15 minutes.
Attachment 48376347
I hope that this will help a couple of people, who want to choose this method. It will take 30 mins first time, than 15 mins or less.
It's up to you how you want to fix your oil sender and what you do to YOUR CAR. This worked for me.

Toque

Very nice Kevin !

strand rider

I think the oil sender video is a fraud. Several key steps are missing from the show, and cannot be done as represented.

I went the pull the manifold route, and it gave me the opportunity to do some cleaning of the air path and sensor.

In my case, being new to the car, I made some "job management " errors. Thinking all the old rubber could be productively replaced, I figured not to sweat the rubber connector lines. Any old rubber that failed when pulling the manifold would be considered maintenance. I ripped apart a couple of small rubber lines that were easily replaced, and one rubber piece that was part of a sixty plus buck hose assembly. (list $120)

I did learn a bit about my used car. Don't caveman the work. Think preservation and care. I was lucky (?) the part was still available. I was used to working on old sports cars, not cars with "systems" Now I have a better understanding about working on the car, and also mass transit.

strand rider

I think the oil sender video is a fraud. Several key steps are missing from the show, and cannot be done as represented.

I went the pull the manifold route, and it gave me the opportunity to do some cleaning of the air path and sensor.

In my case, being new to the car, I made some "job management " errors. Thinking all the old rubber could be productively replaced, I figured not to sweat the rubber connector lines. Any old rubber that failed when pulling the manifold would be considered maintenance. I ripped apart a couple of small rubber lines that were easily replaced, and one rubber piece that was part of a sixty plus buck hose assembly. (list $120)

I did learn a bit about my used car. Don't caveman the work. Think preservation and care. I was lucky (?) the part was still available. I was used to working on old sports cars, not cars with "systems" Now I have a better understanding about working on the car, and also mass transit.

Old Horsepower

This is the way I went also. And if i ever need to do it again it will be so easy! Remove wiper arms - remove cowl cover - and I'm there!

Maxx_Z06

Very nice! Bookmarked for future reference.

bracketshark

I changed mine without removing the intake or cutting a whole. After you do it the first time it takes ~ 20 min. or less to move the intake for access. There are relocation kits that gets the sensor out of the hole for easy replacement. Its ashamed to butcher up your car. JMO

lionelhutz

Interesting work. I understand being afraid of touching the engine, but you can take the intake bolts out and slid it ahead enough to get to the sensor in the same time it takes to remove the wipers and the cowl cover panel.

bracketshark

Sorry, got carried away. Good luck with your car.

Chris Stewart

I like it. Fixed a common problem and made it more serviceable.

cdnguyred88

Thanks for sharing and the pics.

ShawnFate

I changed mine with taking anything off or drilling a hole as well.

maxx2200

Nice job and a very useful post.
I used the hole method the first two times, after that I did the relocation kit.

DARRYLZO6

Where were you four years ago when I paid the stealership to replace mine?Thats a pretty good DIY . Great job!

FourG63 97GST

how long did this take you? I can usually have my manifold of in 10mins.
ratchet wrench for the back two, and my electric drill for the rest.

DonC5

Thanks for the article TXVette435. I just bought a 99 C5 and it came with a pinned oil pressure gauge. Since it seems to be a common issue, I'm going to use your technique to replace my sender and be ready for the future.

3boystoys

Take less time to remove the intake and install a relocation kit.

philcol

Now if there was a way to apply this to the cam sensor. :-)

amlarson2001

I guess the right tools go a long way. I replaced mine in 30 mins without removing the intake or cutting anything. Different ways for different people.

denis.drc

I did my first one the "youtube" way...what a PITA that was...my tool set is pretty robust so I had all the flex joints and shallow sockets to do the job, it was just not the right way to do it IMO.

Second time (cam position sensor started leaking) I took the intake off. Whole job took under 45 mins. It's just ~10 8mm head bolts and a few hose clamps. I threw in a new oil pressure sender while I was in there. This method also allowed me to clean all the dirt/oil deposits from the intake ports. Rewarding feeling!

The intake is VERY easy to remove, but you do need to buy a fuel line release tool.

I think removing the intake just seems like a scary idea to some. I get it, I've been there. But this is an LS series engine, it's made to be serviced without much trouble. Try working on BiTurbo Audi S4s for a few years... Makes working on the 'vette a walk in the park.


That said...OP you did hell of a job thinking outside the box. I especially like that you actually finished the job and patched the hole. NICE!